270 
The Garden Magazine, June, 1921 
The Garden Flowers 
Sweet -pea flowers to be picked determinedly; if seed pods form, plants 
will stop producing. Keep well watered, for if the vines begin to 
turn yellow that is the end. Bedding-out to be finished promptly, 
setting aside a few surplus plants for replacements. 
Iris need lots of water after blooming; use bone meal as fertilizer. Top 
dressing with manure is bad for Iris. The best time to divide, 
transplant, or make new plantings of Iris is immediately after 
the blooming period. 
Stake plants as they need it and before they blow over. 
Cut to the ground Achillea as soon as through flowering to provide for 
a second crop later in the season. 
Coreopsis kept cut close will make a display all through the season. 
Keep picked-off all dead leaves and flowers as they fade. 
Flower Seeds to be Sown 
Sow now seed from such early flowering plants as Columbines, Lark- 
spurs, etc. to produce good plants before the fall. 
Late-flowering Tulips may be lifted as they pass out of bloom and 
heeled in elsewhere to ripen, the vacancies being filled with annuals. 
Those known as “croppers” are best for this purpose. 
Still time to get a supply of seeds of annuals and enjoy a perfect sea 
of bloom ere the fall frosts arrive. To be sown now: Snap- 
dragons, Asters, annual Gaillardia, Clarkia, Larkspur, Lupin, 
Poppy, Alyssum, Arctotis, Balsam, Calendula, Calliopsis, Candy- 
tuft, Cornflower, Centaurea, Cleome, Globe-amaranth, annual 
Gypsophila, annual Sunflower, Marigold, Mignonette, Stock, 
Verbena, Zinnia, etc. 
Attention to the Roses 
Feed freely with liquid manure; if large exhibition blooms are wanted 
rub off all but the terminal bud. One sure way to get control of 
rose bugs is by hand picking into a can of kerosene. Spraying 
with arsenate of lead, 5 pounds to 50 gallons of water, repeatedly, 
is an old remedy, not very effectual. Melrosine is a new prepara- 
tion recommended for its effectiveness. 
Gladiolus for late fall cutting to be planted. 
Dahlias to be planted during the month; put out stakes before setting 
out tubersor plants. When growth has started reduce shoots toone, 
allowing side branches to develop one foot above the ground. 
Propagating for the Hardy Border 
Many herbaceous and alpine plants may be propagated after flowering 
by cuttings or offsets. The Creeping Phloxes, Cerastiums, 
Sedums, Aubretias, Arenaria, and Iberis, are among those that 
may be increased at this time. Use a frame containing sandy soil 
and which can be shaded from hot sun. Stock may also be in- 
creased by sowing seeds at this time. Such subjects as Delphin- 
iums, Lupins, Foxgloves, Canterburv-bells, Sweet Williams, 
Aquilegias, Oenotheras, Heucheras, and other perennials, will 
make plants of sufficient size to plant into permanent quarters in 
the fall if sown now. A seed bed in the open ground will meet the 
requirements of these plants at this time, but as the frames 
are emptied of other stock they may be utilized. Shade is es- 
sential until germination takes place. 
Fruit Garden 
Thin the “set” of Apples, Pears, Peaches. Much finer fruit will 
result, with superior flavor, and the aggregate weight at least 
equal. True also of Grapes. 
Crops of Gooseberries, Currants, Strawberries depend to a large extent 
upon the amount of moisture maintained about the roots. Use 
grass clippings and other mulching material. 
Summer pruning (pinching out of the tip of the young growth) will 
keep the young fruit trees in better shape and induce fruitfulness. 
Retard the Currant crop and gather fresh fruit in August bv covering 
bushes with muslin or burlap before fruit ripens. Watch Black- 
berries and Dewberries for orange rust, burning affected bushes as 
soon as discovered. 
To feed fruit trees scatter stable manure over the ground as far as the 
spread of the branches; or use 4 to 5 pounds of phosphoric acid 
for each large tree, and, after raking it in, mulch the surface with 
the weeds, and other refuse taken from the garden. Trees with . 
rank, vigorous growth and little fruit do not need manure; those 
with small, undersized fruit and little or no annual growth will 
be benefited. 
The Greenhouse Plants 
This is preparatory season for next winter’s supply of cut flowers, pot 
plants, etc. A general clean up is essential. Discard old plants, 
renew soil and generally overhaul. As many subjects as possible 
that are to be carried over should be accommodated in frames. 
Adiantums (Croweanum, cuneatum, and gracillimum); Pteris; 
Cyrtomiums; Polypodiums; Davallias, and Nephrolepis, in addi- 
tion to Cyclamen, Primulas, and other flowering plants are 
amenable to frame culture at this time. 
Antirrhinum seedlings intended for an early winter crop should now be 
large enough to prick off. Give a fairly rich soil and plenty of room. 
Still time to root a batch of the exhibition Chrysanthemums. They 
will make fine dwarf plants in six-inch pots. Early rooted plants 
to be potted on as fast as they fill the pots with roots, until they 
are in their flowering pots. Plants for bench culture to be planted 
into flowering quarters now. 
Sow seeds of Primula malacoides and its varieties, also Cineraria; give 
the latter every protection from heat and grow as cool as conditions 
will allow. 
Celosia sown now will provide blooming plants by the end of August. 
Plants on hand to be repotted to larger pots. 
Gloxinias to be well shaded and grown cool. Fumigate for thrips. 
Begonias of the Lorraine type require shade and careful watering. 
Keep near the glass to secure stickiness. 
Gardenias require frequent and thorough svringings to keep them free 
from mealy bug. Keep the atmosphere moist by frequent damp- 
ing down of the paths and walls. 
Cyclamen to be potted on as required, using a light but rich compost. 
Well rotted cow manure and bone meal are good sources of food for 1 
these subjects. 
Poinsettias to be potted up for winter flowering. Azaleas are worth all 
the care that can be bestowed upon them now; plunge out of doors 
after they have flowered with others of their kind to ripen. 
Roses to be planted with all possible speed; avoid over watering; 
cultivate regularly to keep weeds down. Fumigate if green fly 
troubles. 
Carnations in the benches may be discarded. Continue cultivating the 
young stock outdoors and keep the leading shoots topped as they 
begin to make headway. If your soil is such that you have to 
resort to watering the plants in the field this month, reduce the 
supply toward the middle of the period so that the plants will not 
be too soft for benching early next month. 
Plunge Amaryllis up to the rims of the pots in frames and keep the 
sashes elevated all the time. They are making their growth now 
for next season’s flowering and, in addition to an abundance of !! 
water, a top dressing of Clay’s or other approved fertilizer, or appli- 
cations of liquid manure will be of benefit to them. Seedlings to be | 
kept growing along, having no rest until they have flowered. 
Pelargoniums for propagating to have the water supply reduced so the I 
wood will ripen. 
Decorative plants are now at the height of their growing season: see 
that growth does not become too soft. Shade only enough to 
break direct rays of the sun and give abundant ventilation on all 
favorable occasions. Old plants of advanced age and size should 
be repotted if necessary. 
Christmas Peppers and Bouvardias planted outdoors to be pinched at 
frequent intervals to induce bushiness. 
Calanthes now growing freely will take water liberally; do not feed until 
the pots have plenty of roots in them. Syringe overhead on 
favorable days, but do not leave the foliage wet overnight. Cal- 
anthes like a brisk, moist heat. 
Pot fruit trees need room. Nets underneath will catch any fruits that 
may fall off. Young Peach trees trained on trellises, making first 
year’s wood for the forming of the main branches of the trees for 
years to come, to have the young wood laid in right or they will 
never look as they should. As the last fruit is taken from the 
early peach house give a thorough syringing to dislodge any red 
spider. Give water if the border is on the dry side, and a little 
feeding will help the plants to build up flower buds for next season. 
Keep ventilators wide open. 
