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“Come with me, then, behind the scenes, where we are concerned only with the joys of plant increase and rejuvenation” 
The Reminder is to "suggest” what mav be done during the next few weeks. Details of how 
• do each item are given in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it is mani- 
stly impossible to give all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine. References 
> back numbers may be looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request); 
ie Service Department will also be glad to cite references to anv special topic if asked by mail and to 
, ;nd personal replies to specific questions; a stamped, addressed envelope being enclosed. 
When referring to the time for out-door work of any sort New York City (latitude 4c) at sea 
level in a normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate Roughly, 
the season advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty 
miles from New York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles 
southwest about a week earlier. Also allow jour days for each degree of latitude, for each five 
degrees of longitude, and for each four hundred feet of altitude. 
JULY— JUST REWARDS AND CONTINUED VIGIL 
Copyright, 1921, Doubleday, Page if? Co. 
• HERE is an allurement about midsummer that tempts one to 
ease up on the care of the garden; whether the thought of 
approaching vacation-time or the reflex effect of the heat 
brings this about is of little moment, but there is no doubt 
that now more than at any other season the gardener needs 
nspiration and urging to further effort. It would not be out of place 
o spend a few hours of the“glorious Fourth” in taking stock ofwhat the 
garden actually offers and ascertaining whether the returns have been 
vorth the effort expended. ‘‘The laborer is worthy of his hire.” Have 
• ou been paid for yours? 
Trowing Crops as they Stand 
f a poor return is inevitable from any crop now occupying space, pull 
or hoe it out and replant. Don’t waste time and space, but start 
a supply of winter vegetables. It is not too late to sow others for 
fall use. Don’t make the mistake of supposing that late varieties 
are indispensable because they are for late use. Early varieties 
are an advantage in many localities as they mature before frost. 
Late Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, Brussels Sprouts and Celery to be set 
into permanent quarters this month. The earlier the better. 
romatoes on stakes to be tied, and side shoots pinched out frequently. 
The foliage to be thinned if it is shading the fruit. 
Melon and Squash vines to be kept off the ground by laying brush for 
them to climb over. 
Potatoes to be sprayed twice this month or oftener if the weather be 
wet. Plant Turnips where early Potatoes have been dug. 
Rhubarb, Sea-kale, and Asparagus to be well fed by top-dressing of well 
rotted manure, or fertilizer, preferably both if available. Cultivate 
thoroughly and keep clear of all weeds. Next year’s yield is 
proportionate to the feeding taken in now. 
Spray regularly with bordeaux: Muskmelons, Cucumbers, Pumpkins, 
and Squashes. Small boards or pots placed under Melons will 
cause them to ripen more evenly than they do when left on the 
ground and will prevent the flat, bleached-out side often seen. 
Dnions and Leeks to be fed with liquid manure or nitrate of soda. 
Vegetable Seeds for Succession 
Beans to be planted for succession. Get the average date for the first 
killing frost in your locality and figure the last sowing according to 
that. Red Valentine will mature in 55 days, if the frost does not 
kill it before the last week in September. Sowings made up to 
last week in July will yield the bulk of the crop before being nipped. 
Last chance to sow long season Beets, such as Long Smooth Blood for 
winter use, is the first week of this month. After that (up to the 
20th of the month) early maturing varieties such as Detroit 
Dark Red, Crosby Egyptian, Crimson Globe. 
Carrots for the winter crop to be sown by the 1 5th of the month. 
Last call for Corn planting July 4th, using early varieties as Peep 
o’ Day, Mayflower, Golden Bantam. 
Early white Endive sown the first week of the month will be ready to 
blanch in early September. 
Kohlrabi to be sown for succession; matures in sixty days. 
Heat resisting sorts of Lettuce, as All-season, Butter Head, Iceberg, to be 
sown up to the middle of the month. During the last of the month 
use Tender Heart, Black-seeded Tcnnisball, and Big Boston types. 
Peas for a fall crop will not give a spring crop return, so use heavy 
bearing, quick maturing sorts; i. e. Sutton’s Excelsior, Little 
Marvel, Alaska, and Thomas Laxton. 
Radishes for succession to be sown. Sow White Strasburg, and Black 
Spanish for winter use up to the 15th. 
Ruta-bagas for winter use to be sown as early as possible, and succession 
crops of Turnips up to 20th. Purple-top, Strap-leaf, Amber- 
leaf, and White Globe to be sown for late fall use. 
Late Cucumbers for pickling are possibilities if sown at once and given 
good care. Liquid manure will help. 
Where the Fruit Is Promising 
Summer pruning is the month’s big job which really assists the trees in 
setting up fruit buds. Go over all trees of fruiting size, and nip 
off all thin, weak interior growth, also take off the ends of any 
heavy shoots with a tendency to get ahead of others. 
Cane fruits to be pruned thoroughly after fruiting; cut away old 
wood that has borne fruit; leaving new growths to fill the rows 
without crowding. 
Currants and Gooseberries neglected during the fall or spring pruning, 
to have some of the old wood cut out now to give room for new 
growth. 
Rub off surplus growths that may have started on Grape vines where 
not wanted. 
When the Strawberry crop is gathered, remove weeds, litter, and super- 
flous runners and lightly fork over the surface of the soil. 
Replant part of the patch each year to maintain succession. 
Thin crop of heavy-bearing fruits, especially Apples and Pears. Reduce 
clusters to a single fruit, and in the case of Apple let fruit hang 
10-12 inches apart all over the tree. 
Cover crops in the orchard to be plowed under. A cutaway disk 
harrow, or a chain on the plow are worth considering in this 
connection. 
About the Grounds 
For aphis on any of the trees use Black Leaf 40, or Thrip Juice. 
Finish pruning early flowering shrubs, cutting out old wood that has 
produced. 
Caterpillars to be disposed of as soon as seen or they will quickly de- 
foliate any plants they attack. Borers are active. A steel wire 
run along the opening the borer is working in will dispose of him. 
Attend to any tree having bark disease or bad scars. Where decay 
has started cut out the soft punky wood to real hard, solid wood, 
making the shape of the cavity such as will allow water to run out. 
If the cavity is small and does not materially affect the stability of 
the tree a treatment with pine tar or creosote will be all that is 
needed. This work calls for real skill and any extensive operation 
had best be given the specialists. 
New plantations to be protected from drouth by heavy mulching; it 
saves constant watering. 
Green fly or white scale to be looked for on the Bay-trees. 
Where the Flowers Are Growing 
Do not stir the soil deeply when cultivating; many plants are shallow- 
rooted. Cut off flower heads when bloom fades, unless saving seed. 
Note down the names and quantities of any plants needed to fill gaps 
and order potted plants to fill now or in fall. 
The biennial Campanula, Foxglove, and other plants of this nature to 
be torn out and thrown away after flowering. Foxglove seedlings 
will spring up and may be kept for next year’s flowering. 
Annuals for late summer bloom by lowing now include Mignonette, 
Candytuft, Phlox Drummondii, Coreopsis, Gypsophila, and Corn- 
flower. 
Continuously flowering plants (Coreopsis, Gypsophila and Perennial 
Peas) to have the flowers picked clean in order to have them flower 
right along. Mulching is preferable to watering (especially on the 
“little and often” plan) for these and fall-flowering perennials. 
When watering, give water until the soil is saturated through and 
through, and then give still more. Mulch to go on after that. 
If Phloxes show signs of red spider or mildew, use a strong force of 
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