334 
The Garden Magazine, July, 1921 
water from the hose for red spider, and sulphide of potassium 
(i oz. to a gallon of water) for mildew. 
Move German and Japanese Iris, even Peonies etc., after flowering 
and make any desired changes of arrangement. 
Nasturtiums, and other soft succulent plants soon suffer from the 
attacks of aphis and are to be sprayed frequently with tobacco or 
suitable preparations. 
Geraniums to be pinched back to get bushy plants. Remove terminal 
growths with fore-finger and thumb. 
Clip Althernanthera and Coleus to keep them within bounds. On 
large areas a scythe is a useful implement for this purpose. 
Rambler Roses to have the old wood cut away soon after flowering. 
Tie the new canes and give them plenty of room, selecting only 
the most desirable of the new growths, cutting out weak and 
crowded shoots. Ramblers trained against buildings are generally 
infested with both fungus and insect. Spray in time to control. 
Keep up vitality by regular watering. 
Bush Roses to have growths shortened, when through blooming, to 
encourage vigorous new wood for fall flowering. A dressing of 
tankage, blood manure, and liquid cow manure will help 
considerably. If drouth prevails, soak the beds with plenty 
of water. 
Perennial seeds to be sown at once for flowering next season. 
Plants in the Greenhouse 
Present neglect of winter-flowering plants in frames will be tenfold 
more evident during the winter months. 
Plant Carnations into the benches. 
Snapdragons for winter flowering to be planted in benches where 
they are to bloom. Keep them cool and maintain a moist 
atmosphere. 
Freesias to be potted up or boxed; they will flower by Christmas. 
Water sparingly until growth starts. 
Liliums giganteum, speciosum, and auratum from cold storage to be 
potted up. The first will flower in October. After pot- 
ting, place bulbs in a coldframe where they can be shaded 
until rooted. 
Bench-grown Chrysanthemums to be kept well watered; also specimen 
plants in pots, and the large-flowered exhibition types. Bush 
plants may still be pinched. Syringe and spray frequently to 
keep them free from thrips, aphis, and red spider. Maintain a cool 
buoyant atmosphere. 
Violets in small pots, planted on a bench with a northern aspect in a 
coo! house, will make fine flowering plants by winter. 
Crotons not to be shaded heavily for brilliant coloring. Frequent syring- 
ings keep mealy bugs, scale, and red spider in check. 
Hydrangeas for forcing next winter, now planted outdoors, not to be 
pinched after the first of the month. 
Place order now for Roman Hyacinths, and for Paper-white, Trumpet, 
and Golden Spur Narcissus. 
Left over plants of Marguerites apparently of little use will, if planted 
outdoors, make fine growth by September, when they may be 
lifted and potted for early winter flower. Shade in the pots. 
Calla Lilies to be started into growth; purchase new plants 
now. Fibrous loam, cow manure, and bone meal make a good 
compost. 
Gardenias planted early last month need air on all favorable occasions, 
but avoid draughts. Damp the walks frequently and maintain a 
warm, moist atmosphere. 
Geraniums' for winter flowering now being grown in pots to have leading 
growths pinched whenever they show a tendency to run away. 
Pick off flower spikes. Give a sunny, well ventilated house; 
freedom from weeds and dead leaves; and an occasional spraying 
overhead. Avoid the use of liquid manures which promote 
soft growth at the expense of the flowers; use fine bone-meal. 
Asparagus Sprengeri for winter greens to be purchased in small pots 
and planted now, if stock is not on hand from seeds sown in heat 
in the spring. 
Seeds for Indoor Sowings 
Mignonette for winter-flowering to be sown early. A rich compost is 
essential. Cover seed lightly and keep moist until germination 
takes place. 
Sweet-peas and Calendulas (to follow Chrysanthemums in November) 
to be sown toward the end of the month. 
Chinese Primroses to be sown now for Christmas flowering; and 
Cineraria stellata for cut flowers in early spring. Baby Primroses 
to be sown; large plants to be divided and potted into inch-; 
pots. All cool-house subjects (like Cinerarias, Calceolarias and 
Baby Primroses) need the coolest possible conditions at this time. 
Seed of English Wallflowers sown now outdoors — later transplanted 
6 inches apart and, in October, lifted and potted, wintered in a 
cold frame with a little protection and brought into the greenhouse 
in January — will make fine flowering plants in the spring. 
New Zealand Spinach for winter use to be sown in a cool-house. Parsley 
also to be sown for next winter’s use. 
Watercress is easy to grow in a coldframe or cool greenhouse (not 
more than 45 0 ); if the temperature gets high, aphis is troublesome. 
Sow now, using a rich soil, and cover the bed with an inch of clean, 
sharp sand. 
Tomatoes for fall crop to be sown now and planted into permanent 
quarters September 1st. Fall crop of Cucumbers to be had by 
sowing English forcing types now; plant to permanent quarters 
late in August. 
Cuttings Under Glass 
Lorraine Begonias (and other of the winter-flowering types) grown 1; 
from early rooted leaf-cuttings to have flowers picked off. If in 
need of larger pots move them; but if in doubt leave for some time | 
longer. Overpotting of these plants often spells failure, especially ! 
when watering is done carelessly. Shade to avoid burning. J I 
Poinsettias may yet be rooted. Purchase small stock of winter- | 
flowering Begonias to grow on. 
Cuttings of Double Sweet Alyssum put into propagating bench now,] 
and later planted at intervals along sides of the Carnation benches, , I 
will flower all winter. 
Forcing Fruits 
Toward the end of the month start ripening up the pot vines for early j , 
forcing next winter. Place in full sun, water thoroughly, and] 
syringe twice daily. 
Fruit houses that have ripened crops and are staying wide open right > 
along dry outrapidly. Continual syringing of trees or vines will 
often keep the surface looking half dry. Water thoroughly. 
Apples and Pears that have fruited in pots to be fed and watered for 
another season. Sublaterals may be pinched back to two eyes. 1 
Care of Orchids 
Calanthes to be looked over twice a day to prevent drying out; these 1 
terrestrial Orchids do not like as much spraying as other kinds. I 
Have the foliage dry overnight or spot will develop. Look 
out for cool nights during the ensuing weeks, 70° at night is 
required. 
Cypripediums now in active growth; as the roots fill the pots and pans I 
liquid manure once a week will help. See that the plants do not I 
suffer for want of water. Ventilate freely, but avoid draughts. I 
Shade to prevent actual burning. 
Irrigation the Most Urgent Need 
One good soaking, once a week is more beneficial than a slight I 
sprinkling every evening. Also, be sure to put the water where it I 
belongs. 
“Leafy” vegetables as well as root crops appreciate having the tops I 
moistened equally with having the roots irrigated. Cn the other 
hand, plants that bear fruits (such as Peppers, Eggplants, Toma- I 
toes, Cucumbers, and other vining plants) should not have the tops I 
and blossoms soaked and the pollen washed away. 
Modern methods and appliances have done a great deal to take the 1 
hardship out of watering. Systems of pipe lines overhead or j 
underground, portable sprinklers, rotary and oscillating water-fans I 
are now perfected to such a degree as to do their work thoroughly I 
and efficiently. Press these aids into service to get the most out I 
of your July Garden. 
THE CALIFORNIA REMINDER 
July and August. Rest up as much as the necessity of watering and ] 
cultivating will allow. Mulch Chrysanthemums with manure. § 
Mulch and disbud Dahlias. Sow seeds of perennials such as Lark- I 
spur, Foxglove, and Coreopsis, and at the end of the latter month 
sow Pansies, Stocks, Wallflowers, and Snapdragons for winter bloom. I 
Divide and replant tall Bearded Iris. 
