The Garden Magazine, August, 1921 
363 
house and has the general appearance of a compact white Pine. 
But speaking of valuable plants, the Mugho Pine is without 
doubt the most useful of the dwarfs, equally adapted for 
terrace planting, formal garden, or hillside. It ranges in habit 
from very dwarf to medium height, and also has marked irregu- 
larity in growth that adds much to its interest, especially if one 
has a fancy for raising young evergreens. Purchase “trans- 
plants,” i. e. seedlings that have been transplanted once or 
more; and so rarely are two alike that the grower is afforded a 
number of types from which to select for specimens, rockwork, 
etc. 
Some years ago I was given a dozen two-year seedlings 
that came from one cone of Picea Englemanni; later on 1 
selected eight distinct forms, all beautiful in color, while the rest 
were true to type. In the nursery only those that are of stand- 
ard patterns, so to speak, are carried on to maturity. 
The Japanese Red Pine (Pinus densiflora) is of more than 
passing interest. Light green foliage makes it charming in con- 
trast to the rest of the genus. The dwarf type is more regular 
in habit of growth than the taller growing one and may be used 
to advantage on the top of a terrace where the view is not to be 
obstructed. Similar in color but more rapid in growth and par- 
ticularly good for fronting a screen or wind-break is the Norway 
Pine. It adds a glorious shade of green to any Pine planting and 
its Japanese associate furnishes soft outline to a group. 
The Umbrella Pine (Sciadopytisverticillata) is unique amongst 
Pines, so should be given room to develop, not on account of its 
size but to allow branches to grow, for once these are gone the 
tree loses its greatest charm and value. It is too scarce to 
sacrifice in close group planting. 
Three distinct Hemlocks are to be considered. First the 
Common Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), the best known and 
undoubtedly most adaptable for general planting, especially for 
hedge and other sheared use. The Southern (Tsuga Carolina) is 
superb of habit with wider foliage and more twisted in arrange- 
ment on the shoot, and much darker in color. 1 have used this 
as a substitute for Yews in exposed gardens where Yews could 
not withstand the searching winter winds. If allowed to grow 
naturally its beauty of outline is remarkable. In formal plant- 
ing or where planted close to paths, it may be cut back slightly 
every spring and again in August. It will stand shearing and 
grow very dense, but its characteristically lovely outline is then 
entirely lost. The Japanese (Tsuga Sieboldi) is a lighter shade 
of green and closely resembles some of the Yews. 
1 have used Hemlocks in combination with Yews. The 
Hemlock thus protects the Yews and together they form a 
symphony in shades of green. 
A NY reference to ornamental evergreen planting is incom- 
plete without a word for the “broad-leaved” shrubs, such 
as the Andromedas, Kalmias, and Evonymus. For partial 
shade they are ideal. In full sunshine all grow and flower more 
freely than when in the shade; in other words foliage in shade, 
flowers in sunlight. Andromeda floribunda (better known as 
the Lily-of-the-valley Bush) has sprays of white flowers in 
April. The drooping Andromeda (Leucothoe Catesbaei), which 
has wider foliage changing from green to a beautiful bronze in 
winter, is valuable for foreground use. The evergreen Spindle 
Vine (Evonymus radicans vegetus) is an invaluable vine for 
the residence, especially as it has orange red fruits in winter. 
For general use as an edging the common English Ivy is much 
used where it can endure; but a thought is to be accorded 
Pachvsandra for all round service, in shade, in sun alone; or as 
a feather to shubbery masses. 
PLANTING IRIS 
THINGS IN 
I ME was, and that not so 
very long ago, when nobody 
ever thought of doing at 
this period any really effec- 
tive work in the garden — unless he was a professional gardener, 
or one of those venturesome amateurs who sailed along in 
blissful disregard of all “calendar” instructions, doing the 
thing at hand just when and where the impulse came. And the 
strange thing about it all was that the unconventional so often 
won out. Of course, the practical fact is that August does not 
differ from any other month as to seasonable duties in the gar- 
den; but it is often convenient to believe there is justification 
for not doing the things one doesn’t want to do. 
Now, as to August, there are things which can be done 
amazingly well this month, especially the planting of Irises of 
the German and Japanese groups; and for the same reason that 
induces the moving of evergreens during this month. They are 
about to make a late summer growth, but for the moment are 
standing still. Some other herbaceous plants come into the 
same category, but with the German Iris the present period 
may well be called the ideal planting time, for pieces put out 
now stretch out to the new soil and become perfectly established 
before the dormant fall season arrives. How anybody can have 
failure in August planting is hard to understand; yet so it is, 
perhaps because of an undue solicitation for the plants’ welfare. 
One thing to be remembered before all else is that the creep- 
ing rootstock (or rhizome) of these species of Iris resents burial. 
It likes to crawl over the surface, only half embedded. Indeed, 
a little common sense analysis and observation will greatly help 
in many garden matters. The Iris is a sun-lover — its perfectly 
AND OTHER 
AUGUST 
flat leaves tell you so, and it dis- 
likes shade and the companion- 
ship of creeping plants that do 
like shade, because they cover up 
its rhizome; and by that same token its rhizomes require light! 
A useful hint to remember is that Irises may be planted deeper 
as their rhizomes are thinner. Hence the Orientals are to be 
planted deeper than the Germans. 
Common sense analysis also explains why the month is one 
for seeding new lawns. The weeds have done growing for the 
season and there is a better chance of getting a good stand of 
grasses; but the soil needs be prepared to support the young grass 
plants; with an adequate stock of humus to hold moisture. 
Evergreens are very commonly planted in August — not be- 
cause that month is better than any other for the job, but simply 
because experience has shown that with a large ball of earth to 
secure the roots undisturbed they can be handled with impunity, 
and the late summer growth will establish them in their new 
positions. 
Seed sowing this month has well recognized advantages for 
perennials and biennials, giving sturdy plants for carrying over 
the winter with but little if any loss. Perennials’ seeds kept till 
spring often do not germinate as freely nor as quickly, because 
of drying during winter, and the necessity of regaining that mois- 
ture before the plant can start. Often such seed rots in the 
cold ground before it can recover its balance. In particular is 
it desirable to sow Pansy seed at this time for flowers next spring. 
This and such like other matters of current importance are 
noted in “The Month’s Reminder,” which of course the in- 
quisitive gardener reads observingly in each issue. 
