388 
The Garden Magazine, August, 1921 
LOOKING AHEAD TO THE WINTER FLOWERS 
A N ADEQUATE supply of flowers for the winter months must be 
provided for on a definite plan, worked out to make the most of 
the restricted space available. It is a mistake to plan to grow too great 
a variety in a small house; yet, with a definite programme it is possible 
to secure a continuous feast of flowers in great variety until we can get 
outdoors once more. An example of such management is this: 
Plant Freesias in four-inch pots, and let them come along in a cold- 
frame. Sow a good strain of Pansies also in coldframe. By the first of 
October, the Freesias can be planted out in rows across the bench in 
the greenhouse. Don’t divide, but set them out just as they come out 
of the pots. At the same time more Freesias may be planted directly 
into the benches for a later crop. Between these, some of the young 
Pansy plants may be set out, the rest of the space being used for Myo- 
sotis, Calendulas, or Dwarf Snapdragons. Bv the new year the Freesias 
out of the four-inch pots started now’will be out of the way and these 
places can be replanted by others, or by Gladiolus America. More 
Gladiolus may be started in 35 inch pots to follow these; and in the 
meantime Spanish Iris will be available to follow them. 
In January double Corn-flowers may be started and grown on in 
small pots, to be planted between the Pansies in early spring and will 
not interfere with them for some time. 
When the first Gladiolus are cut, a change to things edible may be 
made. Comet Tomatoes from seed sown in January may be planted 
in place of them, grown to single stems with 1 5 inches of space between 
the plants; or more Gladiolus may be used. A scheme like this will not 
meet the needs of everyone, of course, but it affords a clue to the method 
of ensuring a succession of crops from limited space which may carry 
suggestion. 
Handling Plants for Flower 
There is hardly a handsomer winter- flower than BouvaFdia, and 
plants set outdoors earlier in the season should be lifted and benched 
with a good ball of soil adhering to the roots. Pinch back the growths 
before lifting, and in a month after benchfng pinch again. Spray 
freely overhead until they are established. Godfrey Callas to be 
potted up three to a 6-inch pot, later shifting to 8-inch size. Finish 
planting Carnations as soon as possible. Give plenty of shade for a 
few days, and remove as soon as the plants show signs of becoming re- 
established, or growth will become soft. Syringe overhead frequently. 
Snapdragons for early winter-flowering to be benched as soon as 
possible. Stevia planted outdoors to be kept pinched back, as they are 
likely to get too tall and they break only too readily at best. Where 
there is room make preparations to have the plants lifted and potted. 
If possible put into a deep frame where they can be shaded until re- 
established: 
Cuttings of Coleus, Alternanthera and other bedding plants root 
.readily at this time, and will make nice stock plants by November, and 
will then furnish any number of cuttings. Bench Marguerites for 
winter-flowering. Plants carried along from the spring in four-inch 
pots with the wood somewhat hardened give the best results. 
Lilium formosum bulbs to be planted, and allowed to come along in a 
coldframe covered with six inches of soil. 
Small plants of the winter-flowering Begonias may be purchased in 
small pots and grown on for Christmas. They do most of their growing 
during the next two months and with only ordinary care good results 
may be expected in any greenhouse. 
Adiantums weakened by frequent cutting need rest by gradually 
letting up on the water-supply, and maintaining a progressively dryer 
atmosphere. ‘When the plants show any renewed activity, top-dress 
with equal parts/of'old cow manure and good loam,- or some approved 
commercial. fertilizer-. \ : 
Forcing Bulbs 
Bulbs for forcing to be ordered at once and planted as soon as 
received. The early Roman Hyacinths and Polyanthus Narcissus are 
the first to hand. Use fibrous soil intermixed with one third well- 
decayed manure. Water well after planting and place- in a bulb 
cellar to root, or outdoors covered with' six inches of soil or- coal ashes. 
Seeds for Present Sowing _ 
Annual Gypsophila and Clarkia grown in flats -and disbudded to 
single stems, make fine material for table decoration during 
October. Sow succession batches to maintain supply. 
Schizanthus for Christmas to be sown after middle of month. 
Sweet-peas may be sown about the middle of the month for flowers by 
Thanksgiving. Be sure that winter-flowering strains are used for 
this. Calendulas sown in a coldframe or cool greenhouse will 
provide cut blooms at Thanksgiving. 
Sow Mignonette in 2 \ inch pots for planting to be benched next month. 
Young plants of Asparagus Sprengerii may be planted to perma- 
nent quarters in the benches. Root cuttings of Ivy, Zonal Gera- 
niums, and Show Pelargoniums. 
Winter-flowering Stocks to be sown for subsequent transplanting to 
flats, and then to small pots, and dually benched or repotted to 
flowering pots. 
Sow Cineraria stellata for flowering next Easter and Primulas for late 
winter and spring bloom. Allow about seven months from date 
of sowing until blooming time and sow accordingly. 
Chrysanthemums Now Growing 
Keep Chrysanthemum house well watered at this stage. It is not 
enough to just wet the tops of plants during extra hot spells. Get 
the water under the leaves, on the walks and under the benches. 
Plenty of moisture during the hot weather, and particularly 
toward evening, will do a lot toward helping the plants through 
the heat of the day. The soil does not have to be soaked every 
time spraying is done or the plants will soon show resentment in 
the form of sickly looking yellow foliage. A mulch of well-rotted 
manure on the surface of the benches keeps the roots cool during 
the hot weather. See that the plants are properly supported. 
After August 15th buds may be “taken” on most of the midseason 
varieties; while those of the late varieties may be “taken” during 
next month. This means, of course, the selection of the flowering 
bud and removal of all others. 
Fertilizers may be applied in moderation after the buds have formed 
and before they show color. Excessive feeding is the cause of 
imperfect flowers and cracked stems. 
Roses Indoors 
Roses are in a critical period right now. Hot, muggy days combined 
with cold, clammy nights are not conducive to the welfare of the 
plants. Fire heat will be essential at times and a little sulphur 
painted on the, heating pipes will assist checking mildew as will 
“grape dust” blown over the plants with a pair of bellows. En- 
courage growth and give all necessary care to induce free breaks 
to lay a foundation for the winter work. 
Orchids to Have Attention 
While we may have warm weather for some time yet, the days are 
however getting shorter, and the nights perceptibly cooler; and 
some humid cloudy weather will be experienced before the month 
is out. Therefore, see that the shade on the house is not too 
dense. If on a cloudy day the house looks dark inside, the shading 
is too dense. Under such conditions Cattleyas will have nice 
green foliage, but will not flower well. Water during the 
morning. 
Temperature is a variable quantity during August, but keep as near 
60-65 as possible. It will run higher some nights and no harm 
will accrue if it falls to 58 on cool evenings. Do not close the 
house up tight on a cool night. 
Fruit Houses 
Borers are liable to attack peach and nectarine trees inside just as they 
do those in the orchard. At the first sign of dust coming from the 
tiny hole promptly either cut out the borer or kill by running a 
piece of wire into the hole. 
Grape vines will have been making unrestricted growth (with no little 
benefit to the roots) since the crop was removed from the early 
vinery. Water the border well, and give the roots plenty of food 
in the late vinery where the berries are fast swelling. If a mulch 
is already there, give clear water first then dust on the fertilizer 
and water that. Pinch out all sub-laterals and give an eye to 
red spider, sponging the foliage at once when that pest is found. 
It may not sound very seasonable to speak now of Tomatoes for winter 
work, but in sections where early frosts occur it is not too soon to 
make a sowing to keep up a supply after the outdoor crop is done. 
If grown in pots, until a later sowing comes into bearing when 
they can be discarded, they do not occupy any permanent bench 
space. 
