be divided, making two or more divisions of each plant. We 
find the best method is to take cuttings from the shoots of 
healthy plants only and root them in sand, thus having new 
vigorous plants each year. These cuttings may be rooted any 
time from January first to the first of June, but those that are 
taken and placed in sand about April 1st will give the best 
results. When the cuttings are well rooted, they are potted 
up and are grown either in a cool greenhouse or in a cold-frame 
at a temperature of 50 degrees at night and 65 degrees during 
the day. They may be planted out again after the first of May, 
leaving about two feet between each plant. They should have 
a southern situation, protected from winds and soil well enriched 
with rotten manure. 
There are a number of hardy Chrysanthemums which will 
live outdoors all winter, provided they are covered with a mulch 
of hay or leaves, but it is safer to lift them if a storage place is 
available, as a severe winter will always cause a certain percen- 
tage of loss among those that are left outside. If you winter 
your plants outdoors, they should be dug up the following spring 
as soon as the small tender shoots commence to break through 
the soil, divided and replanted. 
The principal insect pests are the ordinary green and black 
aphis, plant lice, caterpillar, etc. For the aphis we use Wil- 
son's O. K. Plant Spray. For the caterpillar a solution of 
Arsenate of Lead (3 pounds of the dry Arsenate to 50 gallons 
of water). 
Fungous diseases are rust (brown spots, patches and streaks 
on the under surface of the leaves), mildew (a careful lookout 
must be kept for this), a white powdery deposit on the leaves, 
and black spot. These all tend to destroy the foliage and if 
left unchecked will ruin the plant. Spray every two weeks to 
keep down the aphis, and each alternate week we spray with a 
funguidal spray, such as Bordeaux mixture or sulphur cide, to 
ward off the fungous diseases. 
When plants are in single rows, or are very tall, stake them 
to prevent injury by wind or storm. Light bamboo stakes, either 
stained green or in their natural color, are the best for this 
purpose. 
If you wish larger flowers or more graceful sprays (this 
applies more particularly to single and early flowering type) 
disbud, or in other words, remove all but say five or eight 
flower buds on a spray, making "lighter," less compact spray. 
Now as to varieties. The list given comprises the best of the 
several types mentioned. All are healthy growers, with good 
flowers and the best of the respective colors. There are many 
others for those who are willing to take a little more care of 
their plants, or who desire a wider range of colors than here 
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