Putting the Garden to Bed for the Winter 
The process of tucking your darlings away for their long 
sleep has many preliminaries, and may be said to begin in mid- 
summer with the division and propagation of the Oriental 
Poppies and Anchusa, the planting of the Candidums and other 
Lilies and the setting out of the Bearded and Japanese Iris. Many 
of the garden children will awake so early in the spring that 
they have to be tucked in before their still blooming sisters are 
even nodding their heads. 
After the 15th of July the Anchusa can be lifted in a great Propagating 
clump, the soil washed off the long, fleshy roots and the small 
roots cut from the main root, which can then be set back and will 
never show a sign of its operation. Cut the roots into two inch 
pieces, place in your old seed bed twelve inches apart and for 
each piece, in six weeks, you will have a little plant that by fall 
will be as big as its parent. If conditions are favorable, put the 
plants in the border, as they will bloom the following June. 
Japanese Anemones can be propagated in the same way early 
in the spring if you have dug up a plant that is through bloom- 
ing and carried it over in a large pot in a cold frame or hot 
house. Platycodon and Dicentra Spectabilis can be increased in 
the same manner but are slower to establish themselves. It is 
most difficult to get your Oriental Poppies to come true from 
seed but if you will lift a plant as soon as the new growth is^ 
three to four inches high, separate each little section and plant 
them where you wish them to be you will have lusty specimens 
in a month. Another way is to cut the long roots up. into pieces 
of two inch lengths, sow them in a cold frame and cover lightly 
with soil. Protect during the winter and you will have a frame 
full of plants by spring. 
Chrysanthemums are too often neglected despite the fact Chrysan- 
that they are the chief features of our fall gardens. Never nip themums 
them back after August 15. A handful of bone flour worked 
around each plant is beneficial (bone flour is more quickly avail- 
able to plants than bone meal) but in general use little fertilizer 
until after the buds have set. Then never let the plants suffer 
for water and apply pulverized sheep manure — a handful to each 
plant every two weeks — until the color shows, but not after- 
wards. Cover lightly in November ; cutting the stalks to spread 
over the plants is all that the hardy varieties need. The tenderer 
sorts are better for more protection — loose litter from the 
manure heap is excellent. A plant or two of each variety should 
be lifted into a cold frame to insure cuttings if the winter is 
severe and your stock is killed. If you have had pots about the 
house of new kinds they can be carried over the same way in 
frame, inclosed porch or window garden, thus adding to your 
collection. 
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