Dahlias where they will get a little shade in the afternoon. 
When planting time comes "plant" your stakes first, about 
three to three and one-half feet apart ; use stakes five to six feet 
long and drive them in the ground firmly. By putting in your 
stakes first you eliminate all danger of tramping on a tender 
shoot just peeping through the ground, the stakes serving as 
guides. Plant your tubers with the point of growth nearest the 
stake about four inches deep and cover an inch or so to begin 
with, leaving a sort of basin to catch rain and at the same time, 
your tubers will be nearer the surface to get the benefit of the 
sun heat, enabling the young plant or tuber to start into growth 
quicker. Unless the ground is very dry do not water tubers 
when you plant them but wait until they get used to their new 
quarters. If you plant green plants, that is, rooted cuttings, be 
sure they are properly hardened off, and a good watering at 
planting time will do them good as they are already in a grow- 
ing condition. 
Never allow the soil to become hard or baked •around your Watering 
plants, cultivation must always follow a rain or watering. Al- 
though Dahlias are moisture loving plants it is bad policy to be 
always sprinkling them. If your ground has been well prepared 
and deep, let them forage for moisture and they will be all the 
stronger for it. At the same time judgment must be used and 
they must never suffer for want of moisture. In dry weather a 
good soaking with the hose (flood them) once a week, is enough, 
and never cease cultivating. 
Along in July, when your plants may be from 15 to 24 inches Pests 
high, you may notice in the hot weather they seem to stand still, 
take on a sickly yellow appearance and throw some premature 
flower buds which can never amount to anything. Possibly your 
plants are suffering from an attack of red spider, leaf-hopper, 
green or black aphis, or any of the other Dahlia pests and insects 
to be found in different parts of the country. Take a knife and 
cut your plants back to about six inches from the ground, or 
three joints. Whether your plants are sickly or not, try the 
cutting back process anyhow, it will rejuvenate the plants and 
they will later on have a strong fresh growth, better able to 
stand up under the hot sun. Just as soon as your plants begin 
to send out shoots from the joints you left, you must be ready to 
begin spraying, prevention being better than cure. I find a 
solution of soap, nicotine (according to directions given) and 
a little Bordeaux all mixed together and applied with a spray 
pump about every week, will keep your plants free from pests. 
Keep on cultivating, filling in around the plants, and as the 
plants begin to grow, tying must be attended to, but never tie too 
tight to the stake. 
In growing for exhibition you must now begin to shape your 
plants. The three joints you left on the plant will have sent out 
25 
