or three times and sometimes more before they are sold to a 
purchaser, so that the tree has gotten adjusted to its new 
condition. The study of roots may be an humble pastime, but 
it is a vital one if one wants to do one's own transplanting. 
Xow about the time for planting. Hicks says that Ever- 
greens, which of course include Cedars, may be moved at any 
time of the year, but that the new growth in June and July is 
more apt to wilt than in August after it has hardened. 
AVhat he says, however, applies more particularly to nursery 
trees. Many people do ball Cedars and transplant in mid-winter 
when the balls are thoroughly frozen. 
According to my garden diary. I transplanted some Cedars 
on October 25th, 1911, at Aratoma Farm, and they are thriving 
happily there today. My longest, best and most satisfactory 
experience is, however, that Cedars transplanted about the 
middle to the end of August give the best results, and a 
larger percentage live and thrive. I think that the reason for 
this is that the tree has entirely finished its summer growth. The 
new growth has hardened, the sap runs slow and the tree is 
relatively inert and does not resent being moved. The stirring 
up that it gets in the process of being dug, moved and trans- 
planted does, however, rouse it a bit and it goes to work, sluggish- 
ly, perhaps, to adjust itself to its new environment and to do a 
little root growing during the next two or three months before 
winter comes. 
August is my favorite month for transplanting Cedars, and in 
transplanting them we should first make a list of the. tools, etc., 
needed for digging up the tree and removing it to its destination. 
Labels, indelible pencil, a stone boat and horses, spades, grubs 
or picks, crowbars, shears, plenty of large burlaps or old canvas 
or old awnings, strong rope or strong gardener's twine, or else 
the regular nurseryman's needle and sewing cord. If the tree 
is to be moved farther than a stone boat can take it, then a 
large cart and team or a motor truck is needed. Decide on the 
spot where you intend to plant the tree and then dig your hole 
amply large and deep. Have near it a pile of sand, a pile of 
loam and a barrel of water, or your hose connected to the nearest 
sill-cock. Be sure to have the bottom of the hole full of soft mud, 
as the roots are better for it. 
Xow dig the tree, but first be sure to hunt for one that is 
adapted to the location where you have dug the hole. Xote 
accurately to which point of the compass the tree is exposed. 
Write this, on your label. AVrite also whether the soil is loamy 
or sandy or wet or dry. Then tie your label on the tree. At 
least two men are needed to move it properly, even if it is small. 
A big tree really needs four men. "When you start to dig make 
as big a ball as is possible to handle, and dig very deep, always 
digging away from the tree instead of towards it. AYhen you get 
30 
