trenches at a gradient of not less than 8 mches to loo feet and not less 
than 30 inches deep. 
The advantages of draining are many and sure. Excessive mois- 
ture makes the soil sour and cold. Soil that is not well drained 
"bakes" and forms a crust that discourages even the strongest plants. 
Drainage regulates the supply of moisture, aerates the soil, (thus stimu- 
lating bacterial action) and makes it warmer and therefore earHer. 
Even land that lies high and has considerable natural drainage is, 
unless very sandy, improved by tile draining, which deepens the top 
soil and puts it into condition to receive the most benefit from the rain 
and any appHcations of fertilizers. 
Draining by subsoihng with dynamite has, in my experience, given 
very satisfactory results. This should be done before tiling. Dyna- 
mite can be used with entire safety if reasonable precautions are taken 
in handhng it. If preferred, a professional blaster can be employed. 
4. Fertilizers 
The very best fertilizer for the garden is well-rotted barnyard 
manure; its beneficent bacterial action in the soil makes it invaluable. 
Rich in nitrogen, it is somewhat lacking in phosphoric acid and potash, 
which are easily suppHed in necessary quantities by the application 
of commercial fertilizers. Nitrogen can also be supplied by ploughing 
under green crops. If humus has been conscientiously added, if the 
soil has been properly sweetened, if the tile draining has been care- 
fully, done, the soil is in condition to benefit to the utmost from any 
fertilizer that a certain plant may require. In my own garden, which 
was prepared in the way described in this article, very httle fertilizer 
except manure is used. Wood ashes from the winter hearth and some 
bone meal for a specially prized paeony or rose are used each year. But 
the vigor and abundance and beauty of the flowers I ascribe to that 
first thorough preparation of the soil. 
While all this preparation takes time and money (delaying the 
actual planting of the garden for one year) the expenditure will give 
ample returns for many years to come in stronger and better plants 
which are more easily grown. If you have not your own farm organi- 
zation, the ploughing and green crop planting can be done by some 
nearby farmer. 
I would suggest that much help in gardening would be gained by 
a further short study of the soil and its treatment. Three excellent and 
clearly written books on the subject are: 
First Principles of Soil Fertility, Alfred Vivian. 
Soil Management, F. H. K^ing. 
Practical Farm Drainage, C. G. Elliott. 
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