( April, 1917 WISCONSIN HORTICULTURE 
branches as shown in the draw- 
ing. 
Don’t use long cions for top 
grafting, cut them to two, or at 
most three, buds each. Cover 
the tips and all cut surfaces with 
j grafting wax. 
The grafting wax sold by seeds- 
men and other dealers is usually 
worthless; make your own as fol- 
i lows : 
Melt together 4 parts beeswax, 
1 2 parts rosin and 1 part tallow. 
Pour the melted mixture into a 
pail of cold water, grease your 
hands and when cool enough to 
I handle, knead and pull as in mak- 
ing molasses candy. Roll into 
sticks and wrap in waxed paper. 
This is good, old fashioned, reli- 
able grafting wax that will keep 
indefinitely and when you put it 
on a tree will “stay put.” 
Tomato and Cabbage. 
I just attended the institute at 
Manitowoc. Am an amateur in 
gardening, but have large lot 
here we would like to get some 
benefit from. 
I think Mr. Rasmussen stated 
he would plant tomato seed now, 
to be transplanted several times 
and planted in garden June 1st. 
! When would you sow seed for 
early cabbage plants, late cabbage 
plants? Would you transplant 
those plants and when plant them 
t in garden. Please recommend 
some book or paper containing 
I practical knowledge on garden- 
l ing and oblige 
M. K. J., Manitowoc Co. 
Ans by N. A. Rasmussen. 
We sow tomato seed from 
March 1 to the 20th, transplant 
twice and set out in the open 
about June 1. 
The first early cabbage can be 
sown about March 20 and set out 
of doors about May 1. A little 
time can be gained by transplant- 
ing in cold frames before setting 
in the open. 
Late cabbage should be sown in 
the open ground about 1 lie middle 
of May and set in the field July 1 
to 10. 
“Wisconsin Horticulture” is 
the most practical paper on gar- 
dening in Wisconsin altho it does 
not cover as much as “Market 
Growers Journal,” which, how- 
ever, is a southern paper. The 
former may be obtained by writ- 
ing Fred Cranefield, Sec’y Wis. 
Ilort. Soc., Madison, and the lat- 
ter addressing Market Growers 
Journal, Louisville, Kv. 
Overhead Watering and Other 
Items of Interest. 
I would like some information 
in regard to your irrigation 
plant. How deep is your well, 
and how many leads of pipe run 
from the tank? 
It has been my idea that if I 
wished to irrigate my twenty 
acre fruit and vegetable farm I 
would have to drill a Avell on the 
highest part and install some sort 
of a reservoir and pump with a 
gasoline engine. I would run 
the water in ditches between the 
rows directly from the reservoir. 
I do not see how I could put 
ditches between my strawberry 
rows as they would be mulched 
between the rows and could not 
remove the mulch to make ditches 
during the picking season. 
I see in the report that you 
have a tank that holds about 600 
barrels. What kind of a tank is 
it? What is the size of the pipes 
that you run underground, and 
what material? 
Do you keep both horses and 
an auto to deliver with? Which 
is the best and which is the cheap- 
est? I am one mile from my mar- 
ket and often wonder if it would 
pay me to own an auto delivery 
123 
as I have to have horses anyway 
to work the soil. 
B. F. G., Iowa. 
Ans. by N. A. R. 
My well is 230 feet deep, water 
raising to about 40 ft. of surface. 
We use 30 bl. tank, not 600 bid., 
on a 30 ft. tower. The well 
is located on highest point of 
farm. We use a common deep 
well pump and gasoline engine 
for pumping, pump throws 14/4 
in. stream. 
This will take care of 2 leads of 
1 in. pipe. Run pipes on top of 
ground using sprinklers such as 
are commonly used on lawns. We 
use these for both raspberries and 
strawberries, also for onions and 
other vegetables. 
We have tried running water 
between rows, but without suc- 
cess. We pump and water thru- 
out the day regardless of heat and 
sunshine. We find no advantage 
in allowing water to stand and 
warm, in fact we prefer it di- 
rectly from the well as it seems 
to control more effectively the 
red spider and strawberry leaf- 
roller. 
In regard to auto truck will 
say we find we can give far better 
service and with less expense than 
with horses. 
STRAWBERRY PLANTS 
100,000 choice Strawberry 
Plants. Also Red and Black 
Raspberry. Asparagus and 
Rhubarb Roots. 
These plants will not be 
dug more than twenty-four 
hours before shipping. All 
stock guaranteed. Hot bed 
plants in season. Write for 
prices. 
Rasmussen’s Fruit Farm 
Oshkosh, Wisconsin 
