2 
WISCONSIN HORTICULTURE SUPPLEMENT 
March. 1918 
10. Leave sufficient space between 
the rows to provide for good tillage. 
It is better to have slightly too much 
than too little space. The beginner 
will need a wider space between the 
rows than the experienced gardener. 
Be on the safe side. 
Space Needed for Various Vegetables 
The distance between the rows will 
vary with the method of cultivation, 
the size of the variety, and the fer- 
tility of the soil. The distances giv- 
en below are for hand or wheel-hoe 
cultivation and average fertile soil. 
8- 9 in. — Peas when planted in 
double rows. 
9- 12 in. — Radish. 
12 in. — Cress. 
12-15 in. — Beets, carrots, lettuce, 
onion, spinach. 
15-18 in. — Bush beans, endive, 
parsley, rutabaga, sal- 
sify, turnip. 
18-20 in. — Parsnips, peppers. 
18-24 in. — Cabbage (early), chard, 
kohlrabi; 
24-30 in. — Cabbage (late), peas, 
tomatoes (staked). 
30-36 in. — Egg-plant, potatoes, 
sweet corn. 
30-48 in. — Celery (depends largely 
on method of blanch- 
ing). 
42-48 in. — Squash (bush), tomatoes 
(unstaked ) . 
4— 6 feet — Cucumber. 
5— 6 feet — Muskmelon. 
7- 9 — Squash (running). 
8- 10 feet — Pumpkin. 
When vegetables of different kinds 
are planted in adjoining rows the dis- 
tance between the rows should be ap- 
proximately one-half of the total dis- 
tance allowed for the crops. For ex- 
ample, if celery, for which is allowed 
4 feet between rows, and cabbage, for 
which a distance of 2 feet is allowed, 
occupy adjoining rows the distance 
between the rows should be about 3 
feet. 
Time Crops Occupy Land 
The length of the time between 
starting the crop in the garden and 
that at which it is ready to use and 
the time it will occupy the land are 
important factors in garden planting. 
Seasonal conditions and the variety 
will greatly modify the time required 
for vegetables to be ready for use. 
The following list shows the aver- 
age time needed to grow the different 
vegetables. In planning for crops 
to follow early vegetables or which 
will occupy the space used by an 
early crop, add to the time given in 
the table below the probable length 
of time required to use the early crop 
or the length of time required for it 
to become unfit for use. 
The dates given are the approxi- 
mate dates of planting at Madison. 
For the central part of the state the 
dates would be from 10 to 12 days 
later, and for upper Wisconsin, 18 to 
20 days later. 
In the table which follows, * placed 
before the name of a crop indicates 
that other plantings may be made; 
** indicates that the crop occupies 
the land until the end of the season. 
In the case of *** other plantings may 
be made as the crop is used, but the 
winter crop occupies the land until 
the end of the season. Early cab- 
bage will occupy the land unitl Aug- 
ust 15 or later. 
* Bean (bush) snap — May 10-15 — 
7 to 8. 
** Bean (bush) dry — May 10—15. 
** Bean (pole) — May 10—15 — 8 to 9. 
*** Beets — April 15—20 — 8 to 9. 
Cabbage (early, plants) — April 
25-30 — 12 to 13. 
** Cabbage (late, plants) — June 25. 
*** Carrots — April 15—20 — 9 to 11. 
** Celery (plants) — June 20 — 7 to 8. 
* Corn (early) — May 5—10 — 9 to 10. 
** Corn (late) — May 15, June 10. 
Cress — April 15-20- — 4 to 5. 
** Cucumber — May 15-20. 
* * Egg plant — June 5—10. 
*** Kohlrabi — April 20—25 — 9 to 10. 
* Lettuce (seed) — April 15—20 — 6 
to 8. 
* Lettuce (plants) — April 20 — 4 to 
G. 
** Muskmelon — June 1 (start plants 
under glass). 
** Onions (seed) — April 15—20. 
** Onions (sets) — April 15—20 — 9 to 
10. 
* Parsley — April 15-20 — 12 to 14. 
** Parsnip — April 15—20. 
* Peas — April 15—20 — 8 to 10. 
** Peppers — June 5—10. 
Potato (early — May 1—5 — 10 to 12. 
** Potato (late) — June 1—10. 
** Pumpkin — June 1. 
* Radish — April 15—20 — 4 to 6. 
** Radish (winter) — July 15. 
** Rutabaga — July 1. 
** Salsify — April 15—20. 
* Spinach — April 10—15 — 4 to 6. 
** Squash (bush) — May 10-15. 
** Squash (runner) — May 10—15. 
** Tomato (plants) — May 15-20. 
Turnips (spring) — April 15-20 — 
8 to 10. 
** Turnips (late) — July 20. 
HINTS FOR THE WAR CARDEN 
(War Garden Series No. 2). 
Frederick Cranefield, Secretary, 
Wisconsin State Horticultural Society. 
The beginner in gardening is apt to 
attempt too much. A small garden 
well tilled is better than a larger 
one neglected. 
Amateur, home, or so called “war” 
gardens may be divided into two 
classes; the small back lot gardens 
ranging in size from 6x10 feet to 
those of as many yards, and the gar- 
dens of the more ambitious amateurs 
occupying an entire lot or even more. 
To Plant or Not to Plant 
In the small garden confine the list 
to kinds requiring but little room 
such as: 
Bean, beet, cabbage, carrot, lettuce, 
onions, parsnip, pea, radish, spinach 
and tomato. Not much more should 
be attempted except that late turnips 
or rutabagas may be grown as suc- 
cession crops. 
These Demand Much Elbow Room 
— Sweet corn, cucumber, squash and 
pumpkin require much room and with 
potatoes should be attempted only 
where plenty of land is available. 
These Are Too Fancy — Brussels 
sprouts, cauliflower, celery, endive, 
egg plant, peppers and lima beans 
are kinds that require rather more 
skill to grow than the average ama- 
teur is apt to possess and should not 
be included in the beginners’ list. 
Soil conditions and the taste of the 
gardener are factors that should be 
considered. 
The beginner is usually very am- 
bitious and is apt to try everything 
named in the catalog. The old-tim- 
er confines his efforts to a few kinds, 
the ones most in demand in the kitch- 
en. 
The “Rest” Varieties 
Ask each of a dozen expert gar- 
deners to make a list of "best” var- 
ieties and the result will be a dozen 
different lists, for each has his fav- 
orites, but on discussion it will us- 
ually be found that their distinctions 
are too slight to be considered ser- 
iously. All the important garden vege- 
tables are classified by the experts as 
to types such as the round radishes 
and the long radishes, round beets 
and flat beets, etc. Each seedsman 
has varieties which he exploits as 
the “best” of these types. 
The following lists may not include 
the best kinds in the opinion of many 
expert gardeners but all are stand- 
ard, reliable and thoroly tested 
and at least plenty good enough for 
anybody; 
Bean: Dwarf; Refugee wax; 
Refugee 1000 to 1 (green pod.) 
Pole or climbing: Cranberry or 
Horticultural; Kentucky Wonder. 
The last two varieties are climb- 
ing or pole beans and are recom- 
mended where space is very limited. 
The Cranberry, a climbing or pole 
variety, is very prolific, and the partly 
matured beans shelled are as good as 
Lima Beans. 
Beet: Detroit dark red or Crosby’s 
Egyptian. The first named is round, 
the second, flat or turnip shaped. 
