4 
WISCONSIN HORTICULTURE SUPPLEMENT 
February, 1919 
parsnips and beets. Small, 
early-maturing vegetables can 
be grown between the young 
plants of cabbage, tomatoes, or 
corn in hills. 
4. If your garden is small you cannot 
afford to grow crops requiring 
lots of space. Potatoes, corn, 
and vine crops should usually 
b e left out of the small garden. 
If these are grown the smaller, 
quick-growing crops should oc- 
cupy the space until it is 
needed by the permanent crop. 
5. Foliage crops (lettuce, spinach) 
are likely to do better in par- 
tial shade than the fruit crops 
(tomatoes, beans). 
6. Do not plant high-growing plants 
(corn, tomatoes to be staked) 
Where they will shade sun-lov- 
ing plants. The difficulties 
arising from shading can be 
greatly lessened by having the 
rows run north and south. 
7. Unless you have had previous ex- 
perience do not waste much 
time on cauliflower, peppers, 
egg plant or other crops that 
are hard to grow or of doubtful 
value. These crops so often 
fail due to weather conditions 
or slight errors in culture that 
it is usually advisable to give 
their space to more certain 
crops. 
8. Remember that in a small garden 
there is plenty of space “up and 
down” but it is limited side- 
wise. Tomatoes should be 
trained to trellises or stakes. 
Tall growing peas trellised and 
planted between rows of small- 
er vegetables require no more 
space than dwarf varieties and 
usually produce larger crops. 
If you think you must grow 
cucumbers try the trellis 
method. 
9. “Variety is the spice of life.” Pro- 
vide for as large a variety of 
vegetables as practical. You 
might get tired of a steady diet 
of one kind. 
10. heave sufficient space betw'cen the 
rows to provide for good till- 
age. it is better to have 
slightly too much than too lit- 
tle space. The beginner will 
need a wider space between the 
rows than the experienced gar- 
dener. Be on the safe side. 
Space Needed for Various Vegetables 
The distance between the rows will 
vary with the method of cultivation, 
the size of the variety, and the fertil- 
ity of the soil. The distances given 
below' are for hand or wheel-hoe cul- 
tivation and average fertile soil. 
8— 9 inches — Peas -when planted in 
double rows. 
9—12 inches — Radish. 
12 inches — Cress. 
12—15 inches — Beets, carrots, lettuce, 
onion, spinach. 
15-18 inches — Bush beans, endive, 
parsley, rutabaga, sal- 
sify, turnip. 
18—20 inches — Parsnips, pepper. 
18-24 inches — Cabbage (early), chard, 
kohlrabi. 
24-30 inches — Cabbage (late), peas, 
tomatoes (staked). 
30-36 inches — Egg-plant, potatoes, 
sweet corn. 
30-48 inches — Celery (depends largely 
on method of blanch- 
ing). 
42—48 inches — Squash (bush), toma- 
toes (unstaked). 
4- 6 feet — Cucumber. 
5- 6 feet — Muskmelon. 
7- 9 feet — Squash (running). 
8— 10 feet — Pumpkin. 
When vegetables of different kinds 
are planted in adjoining rows the dis- 
tance between the rows should be ap- 
proximately one-half of the total dis- 
tance allowed for the crops. For ex- 
ample, if celery, for which is allowed 
4 feet between rows, and cabbage, for 
which a distance of 2 feet is allowed, 
occupy adjoining rows the distance 
between the rows should be about 3 
feet. 
Time Crops Occupy Lund 
The length of time between starting 
the crop in the garden and that at 
which it is ready to use and the time 
it will occupy the land are important 
factors in garden planning. Seasonal 
conditions and the variety will greatly 
modify the time required for vege- 
tables to be ready for use. 
The following list shows the aver- 
age time needed to grow the different 
vegetables. In planning for crops to 
follow early vegetables or which will 
occupy the space used by an early 
crop, add to the time given in the 
table below the probable length of 
time required to use the early crop or 
the length of time required for it to 
become unfit for use. 
The dates given are the approxi- 
mate dates of planting at Madison 
For the central part of the state the 
dates would be from 10 to 12 days 
later, and for upper Wisconsin 18 to 
20 days later. 
In the table which follows, * placed 
before the name of a crop indicates 
that other plantings may be made; ** 
indicates that the crop occupies the 
land until the end of the season. In 
.case of * * * other plantings may be 
made as the crop is used, but the win- 
ter crop occupies the land until the 
end of the season. Early cabbage will 
occupy the land until August 15 or 
later. 
C rop 
Approximate 
date of 
planting 
at Madison 
Ready 
for us« 
(weeks) 
* Bean (bush) snap. 
“Bean (bush) dry... 
** Bean (pole) 
*** Beets 
Cabbage 
(early, plants)... 
** Cabbage 
(late, plants) 
“* Carrots 
“Celery (plants) 
* Corn (early) 
“ Corn (late) 
Cress 
“ Cucumber 
** Egg plant 
“* Kohlrabi 
'Lettuce (seed) 
'Lettuce (plants)... 
“ Muskmelon 
“Onions (seed) 
“Onions (sets) 
* Parsley 
“ Parsnip 
* Peas 
“ Peppers 
Potato (early) 
“ Potato (late) 
“ Pumpkin 
* Radish 
“ Radish (winter) 
“ Rutabaga 
“ Salsify 
* Spinach 
“Squash (bush) 
“Squash (runner)... 
“Tomato (plants).. 
Turnips (spring)... 
“Turnips (late) 
May 10-15 
May 10-15 
May 10-15 
April 15-20 
April 25-30 
June 25 
April 15-20 
June 20 
May 5-10 
May 15, .June 10 
April 15-20 
May 15-20. j 
June 5-10 
April 20-25 
April 15-20 
April 20 
June 1 (set out 
plants started 
under glass) 
April 15-20 
April 15-20 
April 15-20 
April 15-20 
April 15-20 
June 5-10 
May 1-5 
June 1-10 
May 15-20 
April 15-20 
July 15 
July 1 
April 15-20 
April 10-15 
May 15-20 
May 15-20 
May 15-20 
April 15-20 
July 20 
7 to 8 
8 to 9 
8 to 9 
12 to IS 
9 to 11 
7 to 8 
9 to 10 
4 to 5 
9 to 10 
6 to 8 
4 to fl 
9 to 10 I 
12 to 14 j 
8 to 10 j 
io’tOlJ : 
4 to 6 
4 to 6 | 
8 to 10 
HINTS FOR THE HOME GAR- 
DENER 
Frederic Cranefield. 
The beginner in gardening is apt 
to attempt too much. A small gar- 
den well tilled is better than a larger 
one neglected. 
Amateur, home, or so called "vic- 
tory” gardens may be divided into two 
classes; the small back lot gardens 
ranging in size from 6 x 10 feet to 
those of as many yards, and the gar- 
dens of the more ambitious amateurs 
occupying an entire lot or even more. 
To Plant or Not to Plant 
In the small garden confine the list 
to kinds requiring but little room such 
as: 
Bean, beet, cabbage, carrot, lettuce, 
onion, parsnips, pea, radish, spinach 
and tomato. Not much more should 
be attempted except that late turnips 
or rutabagas may be grown as suc- 
cession crops. 
These demand Much Elbow Room — 
Sweet corn, cucumber, squash and 
pumpkin require much room and with 
potatoes should be attempted only 
where plenty 'of land is available. 
These Are Too Fancy — Brussels 
sprouts, cauliflower, celery, endive, 
egg plant, peppers and lima beans are 
kinds that require ralher more skill to 
