February, 1919 
WISCONSIN HORTICULTURE SUPPLEMENT 
13 
rest period, a second and often a third 
and a fourth crop, frequently fruiting 
from June to November. 
Enough berries, a straggling few, 
are borne between crops to partly 
justify the name "everbearing." 
These kinds are most excellent for 
the home garden but the beginner who 
is growing for market should not 
plant heavily of the everbearers but 
stick to the standard sorts. The ex- 
perienced grower, especially if he has 
an irrigation plant, can usually grow 
them profitably. The most popular 
kinds are Americus, Progressive and 
Superb. Progressives seem to be the 
most prolific; Superb large fruit, and 
Americus more nearly an all season 
or everbearer. 
Mr. M. S. Kellogg of Janesville who 
has grown the “everbearers” since the 
first commercial varieties appeared, 
sixteen years, has this to say of them: 
“This class of fruit has passed the 
experimental stage and has become a 
necessity for the home garden and 
for the commercial grower when con- 
ditions of soil and market are favor- 
able. In growing the Everbearers 
the following is the most approved 
method of culture. Plant as early in 
spring as the conditions of soil and 
weather will permit, keep all bloom 
removed from the plants until about 
one month before you wish the fruit 
to begin to ripen. Allow the plants 
set to produce from four to eight run- 
ners and when these are rooted keep 
all other runners cut off as soon as 
they appear. You will then have a 
hedge row or half matted row system 
and if clean culture is given and with 
good fertile soil you will get lots of 
berries. If you wish fruit do not let 
them make too many plants. A bed 
of Everbearers after having fruited the 
year of planting should be well cov- 
ered and can be carried over to fruit 
the following June if desired or the 
fruit stem can be kept off the second 
season until July 15th and they will 
bear again in the fall. Right var- 
ieties, rich soil and good culture will 
win with the Everbearers but the 
greatest of these is GOOD culture." 
As stated in the beginning these 
few hints are meant only for the be- 
ginner. Questions concerning straw- 
berry culture not mentioned here will 
be answered cheerfully and promptly 
on application to Secretary State Hor- 
ticultural Society, Madison, Wis. 
RASPBERRY CULTURE 
Two kinds (species) of raspberries 
are commonly cultivated for home 
use and for market, the red and the 
black — the latter known as black- 
caps or simply “caps.” 
These kinds, aside from their color, 
differ in the manner in which they 
are propagated. 
Red raspberries are propagated by 
“suckers" from the roots of the par- 
ent plant. In the black-caps plants 
grow from the tips of the branches 
when these are covered with soil or 
are held in place toy a lump of earth 
or other means. 
Soil: — Raspberries thrive best on 
clay loam soil with clay subsoil or on 
gravely clay loam; in other words 
soils with much water holding 
capacity. Don’t plant raspberries on 
thin, gravelly, or sandy soil and ex- 
pect to be successful. 
For paying crops apply plenty of 
stable manure. 
RED RASPBERRIES 
The culture of the red raspberry is 
influenced at every step by its habit 
of producing suckers or shoots from 
the roots. The first year of its 
growth a number of suckers will de- 
velop from the parent plant but not 
more than needed. The following 
year, however, and each succeeding 
year, innumerable suckers will spring 
up, not 'only close to the plants but 
between them and in fact wherever 
the roots extend. It is plain that 
their surplus growth of plant must be 
restricted or the field will soon be- 
come merely a brush patch, yielding 
little or no fruit. 
Two methods of culture are in com- 
mon use by growers, the hill and the 
Hints for Beginners 
Frederic Cranefield 
matted row. Good paying crops may 
be grown by either method. 
In the case of the hill plan the 
plants are set 2 to 2 V 2 feet apart and 
the rows 6 feet apart. After the first 
season the suckers are confind to hills 
of 8 to 10 or 12 canes and all others 
removed. 
In the matted row the plants are 
set 12 inches apart in the row and the 
suckers allowed to form a matted 
row 12 to 15 inches wide and the 
canes 6 to 8 inches apart. The mat- 
ted row usually yields better returns 
than the hill system. 
One method of planting is to plow 
shallow furrows for the rows, after 
the field has been plowed and har- 
rowed, then set the plants the re- 
quired distance and cover the roots, 
using a hoe or spade and tramping 
firmly about the roots. If the ground 
is mellow three to four inches of soil 
over the roots is enough and not too 
much. 
If a large field is to be planted and 
a number of planters work systemati- 
cally no doubt the furrow method will 
save time but the average planter 
will set by hand using a spade. 
Cut back the tops at planting time 
leaving only short stubs. Where 
available a plant-setting machine 
commonly used for setting tobacco 
plants, can be used to advantage. 
As the season advances a number 
of shoots or suckers will appear. 
These develon into plants which pro- 
duce fruit the following year. 
Some growers advise pinching the 
shoots the first season when about 
eighteen inches in height but this is 
not an important matter. Something 
may be gained by pinching but cer- 
tainly no harm will result if it is not 
done. Cutting back the matured 
canes the following spring is a matter 
of the highest importance as will be 
shown later. 
The ground should be kept clean 
and mellow all the season by frequent 
cultivation and hoeing. Vegetables 
may be grown between the rows the 
first season but don’t plant strawber- 
ries between raspberry rows, as the 
strawberry plants interfere with culti- 
vation or mulching of the raspberries 
the following season when it is most 
needed. Three thousand six hundred 
and thirty plants are required when 
planted 2 x 6 ft. 
Black Caps 
Black caps require rather more 
room than the reds. The reds are up- 
right growers while the blacks are 
spreading in habit. Three feet is 
close enough in the row and strong 
growing varieties ought to have even 
more room. The rows may be 7 feet 
apart. An acre planted 3 x 6 ft. re- 
quires 2420 plants. 
In contrast to this one successful 
grower plants black-caps eighteen 
inches apart in the rows and renews 
the plantation at the end of two years, 
taking only one full crop. 
The “tip” plant of the black rasp- 
berry as received from the nursery is 
a flattened, compact bunch of fine 
roots with a single stem arising from 
the center. Around this stem are nu- 
merous buds that develop into other 
stems or "canes”. If this bud cluster 
is covered too deep with heavy soil 
the buds will not push thru. We are 
therefore confronted with the prob- 
lem of covering the roots deep enough 
so they will not dry out and shallow 
enough to avoid smothering the buds. 
It can be done and the least difficulty 
