14 
WISCONSIN HORTICULTURE SUPPLEMENT 
February, 1919 
will be experienced in soil that has 
been well prepared before planting-. 
Cultivation the first season is much 
the same as for the reds except that 
the black caps do not form suckers 
from the roots. The only canes or 
stems that grow will be from the bud 
cluster mentioned above. Usually 
there are not too many of these the 
first year, five or six, and are all re- 
tained. 
As in the case of reds there is no 
objection to growing an annual crop 
between the rows the first season. 
Two rows of beans, one row of pota- 
toes or other root crops, may be 
grown between each two rows of 
raspberries without serious detriment 
to the berry plants. 
No fruit will be borne the first year 
on either reds or blacks. 
Every effort should be used the first 
year to secure a strong growth of 
plants. Deep rich soil and thoro cul- 
tivation will produce plants that will 
bear more than one-half a normal 
Planning and Planting the 
Orchard 
Soil and Site: Fruit trees require 
well drained soil. The character of 
the soil is of less importance than the 
drainage. Much has been written 
about the right kind of soil for ap- 
ples, cherries and plums, greaet stress 
being laid on the character of soil nec- 
essary to produce paying crops. Some 
of it is true but a little observation 
will show many very fine orchards in 
Wisconsin on a wide range of soils. 
The very thin soils of Door county 
produce wonderful orchards, so also 
do the deep loamy soils of Crawford 
county while the very oldest apple 
trees in the state are growing in the 
black loam of Jefferson and Rock 
counties. Don’t worry too much 
about the right kind of soil. 
As a commercial proposition it is 
well to take account of the fact that 
trees on deep clay loam soil will re- 
quire longer to come into profitable 
bearing than those on light, sandy or 
gravely soils, — and live longer. 
For the home orchard of a dozen 
trees plant near the house regardless 
of the nature of the soil, — if it is well 
drained. Many people believe that an 
orchard should always be planted on 
sloping ground. This idea probably 
arises from the fact that our fore- 
fathers in Massachusetts and Virginia 
planted apples on hill sides but this 
was because it was found that trees 
would grow there, thus reserving the 
level land for corn or other crops 
crop the following year while starved 
plants will produce nothing. A full 
crop is not expected until the second 
year after planting. A raspberry 
plantation should yield profitable 
crops for four to six years. 
It has been the universal practice 
in the past to build a trellis or sup- 
port for raspberry plants both red and 
black but this is now rarely done. 
Growers have now learned that prop- 
erly pruned plants require no trellis 
or other support. This subject of 
pruning will be discussed in a later 
publication but mention is made of it 
here as a matter of encouragement to 
beginners. 
Varieties: As in the case of other 
fruits opinions of growers differ 
widely when it comes to selecting 
varieties. The following kinds are 
popular with Wisconsin growers: 
Red: Marlboro, King, Cuthbert, in 
the order named. 
Black: Plum Farmer, -Cumberland, 
Gregg, as named. 
TREE FRUITS 
Frederic Cranefield 
which required cultivation. Level 
well drained land is preferable on ac- 
count of ease of cultivation. If only 
sloping land is available choose a 
north slope rather than a south slope. 
Air Drainage: This is also impor- 
tant. A free circulation of air thru 
the trees tops hinders the develop- 
ment of disease and insects. If trees 
are planted in a low spot where cold 
air settles the fruit buds may suffer 
from frost. 
(Clauses of Failure: Many thousands 
of trees are set out every year in this 
state; some live, many die. 
In some cases the nurseryman is at 
fault. More often the planter is at 
fault. The trees may arrive in good 
condition but in the rush of spring 
work the bundle is laid aside until a 
convenient time arrives to plant, or 
the trees may be improperly planted. 
Trees and plants in small lots are 
packed in bundles at the nursery. If 
the work is well done the roots should 
be packed in damp moss or excelsior 
and this covered with burlap. The 
tops should also be completely cov- 
ered either with rye straw or burlap. 
This packing is usually sufficient to 
protect the plants from drying until 
they have arrived at their destination, 
but is not intended to preserve them 
longer. 
Never under any circumstances 
leave the trees in the shipping pack- 
age, even over night. If possible plant 
at once, otherwise open the bundle 
and “heel-in” the trees or plants. 
"Heeling-in” is temporary planting. 
Other Kinds 
Purple Raspberries: The Colum- 
bian, Shaffers Colossal and perhaps 
other varieties, strong growing kinds 
sometimes producing canes twelve to 
fifteen feet in height and an inch or 
more in diameter, bearing purplish 
fruit, are hybrids produced by cross- 
ing the red and the black raspberry. 
The purple or purple-cane raspber- 
ries are better adapted to the home 
garden than to growing for market. 
They are not more productive than 
the red or the black, the rank growth 
interferes with proper cultivation and 
involves greater expense in picking. 
Also the very unattractive color of> the 
fruit lessens its market value. 
Everbearing Raspberries: The so- 
called everbearing raspberries are to 
be classed with the everbearing straw- 
berries, interesting and attractive to 
the amateur but of little value to the 
commercial grower. The St. Regis 
is the best known of the everbearing 
type. 
To do this dig a trench wide and deep 
enough to accommodate the roots 
with one side sloping. 
Open the bundle, lay the trees sep- 
arately in the trench with tops resting 
on sloping bank. Cover the roots 
with moist earth sifting it well among 
the roots, tramping firmly. In addi- 
tion a mulch of straw or manure will 
help to preserve moisture. Treated 
in this manner trees may remain in 
the trench for several days. If trees 
are shrivelled when received bend 
down the tops after heeling-in and 
cover them with moist earth. Often 
in two or three days they will be 
found to be plump and fresh. 
Planting: The ground should be 
deeply plowed and well cultivated be- 
fore planting. Do not set fruit trees 
in sod. The grass roots will 
reach out and rob the trees of food 
and water. If you cannot devote a 
piece of land to trees alone and keep 
it in cultivation, do not attempt fruit 
growing as the results will be disap- 
pointing. 
Dig holes large enough to accom- 
modate the roots after these have 
been cut back to sound wood. Trim 
broken and crushed roots back to 
sound wood, do not cut off more. 
Don't worry about the fine, fibrous 
roots about which so much has been 
written, — these are dead anyway if the 
tree has been out of the ground more 
than an hour, — take care of the larger 
roots for it is from these that growth 
starts. 
The hole should be deep enough to 
