94 
WISCONSIN HORTICULTURE 
March, 1919 
when laden with fruit. Lastly 
we go around the bush and trim 
off any growths that trail down. 
When the bush is pruned it has 
three or four canes one year old, 
three or four two years old, three 
or four three years old and three 
or four four years old, but none 
over four years, of age. Occa- 
sionally this system has to be 
varied to meet *Te varying condi- 
tions of seasons, etc., but always 
we have new wood coming on and 
old wood being taken out. 
The raspberries all produce 
their fruit on one year canes that 
bear only once and die that aut- 
umn. Each spring one or more 
leafy shoots arise from the crown 
of each black raspberry bush. 
These we tip back or pinch out 
• 
the growing tip from two to two 
and a half feet high. If allowed 
to grow tall and then cut back to 
this height a weak, lateral growth 
results, but when nipped at the 
right stage several strong laterals 
will be thrown out and will great- 
ly increase the fruiting surface. 
One often has to go over the black 
caps three or four times, to get 
these shoots at the proper height. 
Before growth starts in the spring 
we prune the lateral growths of 
the young canes to from eight to 
fourteen inches in length and then 
with a pruning hook remove all 
the dead canes that bore the past 
season’s crop of fruit and enough 
of the weaker young canes so that 
no bud has more than four or five 
canes on it.. When we transplant 
black raspberries we trim off all 
the old wood as near to the bud as 
possible so as not to spread dis- 
ease. 
The blackberry should be 
pruned about as I have outlined 
for the black raspberry, except 
where supports are used for the 
canes, the shoots need not be nip- 
ped in the summer. 
The shoots of the ordinary red 
raspberry should not be nipped in 
the summer, but if one is dealing 
with the drooping purple canes, 
as Shaffer and Columbian, the nip- 
pining should be done the same as 
for black caps. The young canes 
of the red raspberry should be 
headed in in the spring before 
growth starts at from three to 
four feet. All old dead canes and 
weak young ones should be re- 
moved at the same time. 
Now as to the spraying, all bush 
fruits should receive a good, 
thorough coating of winter 
strength lime sulphur applied late 
in the spring just as the leaf buds 
are bursting open. Even if some 
of the leaves are commencing to 
unfold we have never noticed any 
spray injury. The later it can be 
applied without injury the more 
good it does. We have found that 
this winter spray controls the 
anthracnose of the black rasp- 
berry better than any other thing 
we have tried. It also holds the 
San Jose scale in check on the cur- 
rants and saves as a general clean 
up for many fungous troubles. 
When the leaves on the currant 
and gooseberries approach a quar- 
ter of a dollar in size ive spray 
with arsenate of lead for the cur- 
rant worms, and repeat in about 
ten days. This gets them before 
they get a start and they rarely 
bother us. If you wait till you 
see them to spray, you are apt to 
find them about as hard to 
stop as a forest fire. Before 
the Avar caused copper sulphate 
to soar in price Ave always 
combined bordeaux with the ar- 
senate of lead for these summer 
sprayings, for the currants and 
gooseberries and never had any se- 
rious loss from leaf blight or from 
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gooseberry mildew. Tavo years 
ago Ave decided because of the 
high price of copper sulphate to 
use summer strength lime sulphur, 
one gal. to 40, with the arsenate 
instead of the bordeaux. So far 
the past tAvo years Ave used no bor- 
deaux. This Ave found to be a 
false economy and as direct result 
Ave had to grub out as fine a patch 
of Red Cross currants as one 
Avould care to see. They had been 
ruined by leaf blight. In our 
opinion had we stuck to Bordeaux 
Ave would still have those bushes. 
In some localities the currant 
louse or aphis gives trouble. The 
best spray for this is Nicotine sul- 
phate and can be applied as a com- 
bined spray or separately. These 
lice Avork on the under surface of 
the leaves and as the spray must 
hit them in order to kill one must 
use an angle nozzle. Fortunately 
Ave have never had a bad infesta- 
tion of these aphids, although Ave 
