HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 
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varieties here. We may add, however, that the “Breeder” or 
"Mother” Tulips are showy and interesting kinds to grow 
in beds. 
So much for the various types or classes of Tulips, and 
now for a few words about their cultivation. For bed and 
border culture bedding Tulips like a fairly rich soil and a 
sunny position. Planting should be done in October or early 
November, planting the bulbs 4in. deep and bin. apart. Be- 
tween the bulbs, aubrietias, double daisies, forget-me-nots, 
double arabis, or coloured primroses may be planted to flower 
directly after the Tulips. These combinations of spring- 
flowering bulbs and plants are very effective, and they usually 
do well together. Where plants are not grown between the 
bulbs a surface dressing of cocoanut-fibre refuse may be 
applied after the bulbs are in to give the bed a neat appear- 
ance. After flowering, in June, the bulbs may be lifted, spread 
out to dry, then be cleaned of withered foliage, and stored 
away till planting time. 
The Cottage, Darwin and Parrot Tulips, as well as the 
species, require similar treatment. Plant the bulbs 4 to sin. 
deep and 6in. apart in October or November. The soil should 
be deep, rich and fairly open, but not contain manure recently 
added. The Cottage kinds and the species will do best in 
bold groups in borders or on rockeries. The Darwin and 
Parrot Tulips are adapted for bed or border culture. The 
surface of the soil in which the bulbs are to be grown may be 
planted with dwarf spring-flowering plants, as advised for the 
Bedding Tulips. The Darwin and Parrot Tulips may be lifted, 
dried and stored away after flowering, but the old Cottage 
kinds and the species are best left permanently in the soil, 
lifting and replanting once in three years. 
Tulips may be naturalised in the grass of the lawn, wild 
garden, or meadow, and very pretty indeed do the flowers 
look when their blossoms are nestling in their emerald-green 
setting. The old Cottage kinds and the species are best 
suited for naturalising, but any of the others will also do 
fairly well. Scatter the bulbs over the grass in a free natural 
manner, and then plant the bulbs where they lie about 3m. 
deep. Use Barr’s bulb planter for putting the bulbs in. The 
grass should not be cut till the end of June to give the bulbs 
time to ripen. 
A few of the species, such as Griegi, kolpakowskyana, 
iPersica, pulchella, and saxatilis, would do well on a sunny 
rockery, the surface of the soil being carpeted with aubrietias 
or other dwarf plants. 
increased by seeds and offsets. 
o 
