58 
Slower (Brower 
WAYSIDE RAMBLINGS 
CRATES FOR STORING GLADIOLI. 
In a recent contribution our friend, 
Mrs. Austin, describes a crate used for 
storing Gladiolus bulbs. I think I have 
a slight improvement on hers, the re- 
sult partly of accident. I bought from 
a seed grower some crates about 3 ft. 
by 4 ft. The bottom was of lath set 
about \ inch apart. The ends of the 
crate were 4 inches high and the sides 
3 inches. A three inch strip, standing 
on edge, was nailed diagonally across 
from about 16 inches from the end to 
the same distance from the other end, 
serving the double purpose of stiffen- 
ing the crate laterally and as a cen- 
tral support for the lath. 
These crates were inconveniently 
wide ; so we cut them in two length- 
wise. This gave two crates with only 
one side but, instead of a 3 inch board, 
I used two lath, one being too weak, 
nailing them, together, to the ends and 
the end of the diagonal. A lath was 
nailed across the bottom at the ends 
and this not only helped hold the lath 
but gave a little lift. There was still not 
enough room on the low side (the 
width of one lath) and so I nailed a 
one inch strip on top of each end. 
These strips run the whole length of 
the end but would have been still bet- 
ter, for ventilation, if used, like Mrs. 
Austin’s, at the corners only. A similar 
strip is nailed on the top of the middle 
cross partition. These half crates can 
be piled up in double tiers, back to 
back, and there is room to put the hand 
in and get out bulbs without taking 
down the pile. The crate might 
further be improved by using an inch 
strip across the bottom at ends instead 
of a lath. It is understood that the 
low side of the crate is only one lath 
high but two laths thick. 
Geo. S. Woodruff. 
RECEPTACLE FOR CUT GLADIOLI. 
For the opening spikes of Gladioli 
after cutting, I make use of poultry 
netting in the bottom of my buckets or 
receptacles and as a cover. The piece 
of netting in the bottom of the bucket 
should be doubled and folded so as to 
stand up an inch or two from the bot- 
tom. The piece for the top or cover 
is cut larger than the bucket and wired 
loosely to a ring of heavy wire. The 
cover is then forced down over the 
top of the bucket and takes a shape 
that will hold itself in position. The 
spikes are placed through the meshes 
of the cover and they find a hole in the 
bottom meshes that holds them up- 
right. One hundred pound metal lead 
cans discarded by painters make fine 
buckets for this purpose. 
A large ball of old poultry netting 
can be used in the body of a jardiniere 
and this aids greatly in keeping Dahlias 
and other flowers in proper arrange- 
ment. 
A. C. Perrin. 
COLOR CLASS DETERMINATION AT 
FLOWER SHOWS. 
The letter from H. E. Meader under 
the above heading in the January num- 
ber clearly points to the necessity of a 
color classification of an up-to-date 
selection of Gladiolus varieties. The 
Sweet Pea Societies some years ago 
found themselves in the same unsatis- 
factory condition in the conduct of 
their shows and now publish a list in 
their annual publications, together with 
a list of “Too-Much-Alike” varieties. 
The latter list is not so much wanted 
in connection with Gladioli as the 
former. Both are framed as much for 
the guidance of exhibitors as to save 
the time of those responsible for the 
success of the various shows. I do not 
agree with Mr. Meader that it is a ques- 
tion for the judges. Rule 8 of the 
General Rules for Horticultural Exhi- 
bitions is as follows: 
“Flower Show Committees are strongly ad- 
vised to see that all exhibits are in accord- 
ance with the conditions of their schedule 
before they are submitted to the judges. It 
is too much to expect the judges to find 
time to count up every item and verify 
every exhibit with the schedule. As a 
general rule they have too short a time 
allowed them in which to perform the actual 
judging with the care and thoroughness with 
which they desire to perform their duties.” 
Smilax. 
SHIPPING CUT GLADIOLI. 
In a recent number of your journal 
some one asked about boxes for ship- 
ping Gladioli. I have found it a very 
satisfactory economy to purchase from 
the tobacconists and country stores, 
the cartons in which packages of to- 
bacco are shipped. Sometimes they 
are given away, but they are never 
sold for more than five cents. They 
are strong and capacious, about 30x15 
xl5, and one takes care of a hundred 
unopened spikes. When the blooms 
to be shipped are open, I telescope the 
open ends of two cartons and sew the 
sides together, after considerable over- 
lapping, to give strength in the center. 
Then cut along the edges of the side 
to be the top of the package, and after 
scoring across each end, several inches 
in, to make a hinge, I cut across 
through the center of the top, and have 
two doors through which the stems are 
laid in the lengthened box. One hun- 
dred and fifty or two hundred open 
blooms can thus be taken care of. I 
sometimes stitch with twine through 
the sides, and make a network upon 
which a second tier are laid to prevent 
crushing. There is no odor. 
W. G. Nyce. 
“ CLUB-FOOTED” GLADIOLUS. 
I have observed this peculiarity oc- 
casionally among the Chicago White, 
and I believe it is a peculiarity of the 
variety, and not the soil or treatment. 
Willis E. Fryer. 
June, 1919 
Early and late planting 
OF GLADIOLI. 
In the April issue of The Flower 
Grower, Mr. Fryer states as follows: 
If a large bulb is planted early in April, and one of 
the same size and variety is planted the middle of 
June there will not be so much difference in the 
time of blooming as you naturally imagine there 
would. When planted early the bulbs may lay dor- 
mant for nearly a month should the weather be cool, 
but if planted in June they start into growth at once. 
Last season we thought our early planted bulbs 
would never start, but on examination we found 
them in about the same condition as when planted. 
When one has a large amount to plant it is necessary 
to begin early, but I do not believe one wiil get much 
earlier blooms by doing so. Small bulbs are last to 
bloom and this gives one a succession of blooms. 
In this part of the world (Missouri) 
planting should be done not later than 
early April, so they can get established 
before the onslaught of summer 
drought, which is liable to come in 
May. A later planted one may bloom, 
but, if much later, will not give in- 
crease, nor so tall or long a spike. 
I think Mr. Fryer will find, even in 
his country, that a corm planted in 
April or early May will give vastly 
better increase than one planted mid- 
dle of June. 
B. C. Auten. 
Note by the Editor — 
We are inclined to agree with Mr. 
Auten that early planting makes for 
greatest increase and biggest flowers, 
but Mr. Fryer is, of course, quite right 
that bulbs lay dormant for a long time 
when the weather is cold in the spring ; 
but they are really not altogether dor- 
mant as they absorb moisture and 
often make fine root growth without 
throwing sprouts above ground. As 
soon as the frost is out of the ground in 
the spring the ground is warm enough 
usually to start root growth before the 
foliage sprouts start. 
There is no doubt but that greatest 
increase in bulblets, largest and best 
bloom and the most perfect and ma- 
ture new corms are formed from early 
planted stock. 
We have planted corms as late as 
June and in many cases the new corm 
is not as large as the old one and of 
very inferior quality and few or no 
bulblets are formed. 
WEB OR CLUB-FOOTED GLADIOLUS BUDS. 
I note that Mr. Gibbs heavily fer- 
tilized his two varieties with liquid 
manure. It is just possible that this 
caused the deformity noted in his 
article. I know that too heavy or too 
frequent applications of liquid manure 
or both to Chrysanthemums will cause 
deformed foliage and buds, particularly 
if the plant be weak or the applica- 
tions made during a drought. 
Chas. E. F. Gersdorff. 
DESTROYING APHIS ON SWEET PEAS. 
I make a strong suds of Ivory soap, 
boiling the soap in a tin dish until dis- 
solved and then diluting with cold 
water until about the color of skim 
milk. This liquid solution syringed on 
the plants once or twice a week will 
destroy the Aphis. 
G. W. J. Bridger. 
