134 
December, 1919 
Slower (Brower 
[This department of The Flower Grower is intended to be one of its most helpful and 
valuable features. All questions asked in good faith and which are of general interest will 
have careful attention. The full name and address of the writer must be given, but not 
for publication.] — Editor. 
Poor Germination of Bulblets. 
To the Editor:— 
A large percentage of my bulblets failed 
to grow in the spring, and I thought of putting 
them in boxes in the fall and burying them 
in the ground below frost line over winter, 
the same as potatoes are sometimes stored. 
Your reply through The Flower Grower 
will be greatly appreciated. p. G. 
Answer:- Some varieties of bulblets 
germinate but poorly at best and the 
utmost care is necessary to secure re- 
sults which are at all satisfactory. 
Your plan of burying below frost might 
be advisable some years, but not so 
good in other years, as sometimes the 
ground freezes but very little, and your 
bulblets might be warm enough in the 
ground to rot or sprout during such 
a winter. So far as we can see you 
ought to get as good results by 
putting them in a cool cellar which 
could be ventilated to regulate the 
temperature. Then the bulblets may 
be inspected from time to time. 
Our own results in getting germina- 
tion from bulblets are very uneven. 
The bulblets of some varieties will 
grow anyway regardless of how care- 
lessly they are treated and others no 
matter how well treated seem very 
difficult to get good growth from. We 
think of Mrs. Dr. Norton and Myrtle as 
being especially difficult to secure a 
good percentage of germination from. 
If separated from the bulbs at dig- 
ging time and stored in a cool cellar in 
sand just a little moist, we believe that 
the best results can be secured in ger- 
mination. Care should be taken that 
bulblets do not mold under these con- 
ditions and they may need stirring up 
or pouring from one package to an- 
other from time to time. About equal 
bulk of sand to bulblets is desirable. 
Gladioli on Sandy Soil. 
To the Editor:— 
Can Gladioli be grown in well fertilized, 
light sandy soil ? 
W. E. C„ Sr. 
Answer:— Surely the very finest 
Gladioli may be grown in a well ferti- 
lized, light, sandy soil. The editor 
speaks from mature experience as he 
has grown Gladioli for eight years in a 
soil which was originally a very lean 
sand, and which he has built up during 
the past eight years, until it now pro- 
duces results which are entirely satis- 
factory. 
We want to suggest, however, that 
there is no doubt but what soil inclined 
to the clay order would give larger and 
stronger bulbs if well handled. A soil 
which may be called a light clay loam 
we believe would be ideal for growing 
Gladioli, but any soil must be handled 
with extreme care, and not a little in- 
telligence, to get best and most per- 
fect results. 
Madison Cooper. 
Dividing Gladiolus 
Corms Before Planting. 
To the Editor :— 
I was much interested in the articles of 
T. B. Tippett in the August number of The 
Flower Grower, and “ H. E.” in the July 
number, on dividing Gladiolus corms. But 
do you really think they gained anything? 
Each agreed on having a live eye and bit of 
root system on each division. Question : 
Would not each live eye, in all probability, 
have produced a sprout, and consequently a 
corm, had the old one been left whole ? 
Mrs. S. B. K. 
Answer : — The underlying principle 
on which the securing of more rapid 
propagation by dividing Gladiolus 
corms is, we think, not well under- 
stood. It might seem, as suggested, 
that there would be no gain providing 
each live eye put up a sprout, but as a 
matter of fact the root system of a 
single corm is, as we understand it, 
not ordinarily sufficiently strong to de- 
velop every live eye in a corm. When 
the corm is divided, each division with 
a live eye and a part of the root sys- 
tem, it is almost certain, unless some 
infection sets in, that each division will 
make a sprout and thus develop a new 
corm for the reason that each division 
or eye has a much greater area of soil 
and fertility to draw from, than if no 
division were made. 
It may be that we are wrong in our 
analysis of this matter and if others 
have different opinions on this subject 
would be glad to hear from them. 
Madison Cooper. 
Peony Culture. 
Would you give me information regarding the cul- 
ture of Peonies? Is it too late to set them this sea- 
son ? What is the most prolific and the best seller ? 
Columbus, O. F. S. M. 
Answer The Peony is a gross feeder, 
and needs rich soil, with abundant moisture, 
but sufficient drainage to prevent stagnant 
water at the roots. A dry. sandy situation 
will only result in disappointment. Soil on 
which corn or some other hoed crop has 
been planted the previous year is excellent 
for Peonies. While dry sand is objection- 
able, preference being given to clay loam, 
excellent results are obtained on sandy soil 
if there is enough moisture and fertility. 
Set the crowns 3J4 in. below the surface, 
in rows 3 ft. apart. Fall is the best time for 
planting, from Sept. 1 until freezing ; the 
first half of September is the ideal time. 
They may also be planted in Spring if con- 
venient, but Fall is preferable. Give a liberal 
mulch of well-rotted manure when the 
ground freezes. 
The following varieties are standard sorts 
for cut flowers and garden use : Festiva 
Maxima, white, early ; Couronne d'Or, white, 
late ; Edulis Superba, deep pink, extra early ; 
Jules Elie, deep pink, early ; Livingstone, deep 
pink, late ; Felix Crousse, red, midseason ; 
Duchesse de Nemours, white, early ; Delicatis- 
sima, pale pink, early ; Jeanne d’Arc, pink 
and white, early ; Gismonda, very late, sal- 
mon pink, extra fine; Albert Crousse, pale 
pink, midseason ; Avalanche, white, midsea- 
son ; Delachei, red, late ; Venus, blush white, 
medium. Better not try too many varieties 
at first ; for commercial use you would be 
quite safe to start with the following half 
dozen : Venus, Festiva Maxima, Couronne 
d’Or, Delicatissima, Edulis Superba, Felix 
Crousse.— Rural New Yorker. 
Sphagnum Moss. 
These plants, for there are many species 
of Sphagnum, grow best in a climate that is 
moist and only moderately warm in sum- 
mer. They are one of the chief forms of 
vegetation found growing in the swampy 
regions known as “ muskegs,” and occur 
principally in Newfoundland, the Maritime 
Provinces, Northeastern Quebec, Labrador, 
and the western parts of British Columbia. 
The Sphagnum plant consists of a stem 
and branches, which are clothed with small, 
numerous overlapping leaves. They differ 
from most other mosses, in being entirely 
devoid of rootlets. Another peculiarity of 
Sphagnum is that the leaf never has a cen- 
tral vein or mid rib. The outer part of the 
stem, as well as a considerable part of the 
leaf, is composed of a large number of spe- 
cial “ absorbent cells” which are able to 
take up and hold water like a sponge. The 
amount of water absorbed varies according 
to the species, but ranges from ten to twenty 
times the weight of the dry Sphagnum. Ow- 
ing to the ability of these cells to absorb the 
water required by the plant for its develop- 
ment, the presence of rootlets is unnecessary. 
Sphagnum or bog moss has been used for 
a considerable period as a packing material 
for plants. Owing to its power of retaining 
moisture, it helps to keep them in a fresh 
condition until they arrive at their destina- 
tion.— Horticulture. 
The Cornell Reading Course for the 
Farm published by Cornell University, 
Ithaca, N. Y., A. R. Mann, director, has 
issued Lesson No. 144 in the plant 
series entitled, “ How the Plant Pro- 
duces Seed,” by L. W. Sharp. This is 
a bulletin of 14 pages containing pri- 
mary information along the lines indi- 
cated by the title. The bulletin is 
illustrated in an interesting way and 
the subject treated in such a clear and 
comprehensive manner that it will be 
helpful and interesting to beginners in 
botany and the science of plant life, 
and especially to those who are inter- 
ested in producing improved varieties 
by cross-pollination. 
We are not advised whether these 
bulletins will be sent on request to all 
who apply, but we believe that they 
will so long as the supply is adequate. 
