February, 1920 
date and of course omits varieties not yet 
thoroughly tested out. 
In the brief descriptions given, “S” indi- 
cates the erect petals, or standards, “F” the 
drooping petals, or falls. The inches shown 
designate the height of bloom. 
The varieties are listed in each section in 
their order of blooming, the earliest appear- 
ing at the head. 
REDDISH PURPLE. 
Kochii (germanica) 24 inches. S. and F. both of the 
deepest purple. Buds soot black. Often sold under 
the name of Black Prince. 
Governor Hughes (Fryer seedling), 28 inches, S. 
deep violet tinged with red. F. still deeper shade. 
Large orange beard. 
Caprice (pallida), 30 inches. S. and F. a delicate 
purple blending into a silky lavender at the base. Has 
a decided grape juice fragrance. 
Parc de Neuilly (pallida), 28 inches. S. and F. a 
navy blue of reddish tinge, with an ever changing 
effect. 
Edouard Michel (pallida), 32 inches. S. and F.’un- 
usual shade of rich reddish purple. 
Monsignor (neglecta), 28 inches. S. and F. velvety 
purple crimson. A stately, massive and imposing va- 
riety. 
BLUE VIOLET. 
Walhalla (interregna), 24 inches. S. light violet, F. 
dark purple, showy, large flowers. A striking bicolor 
Gertrude (pallida), 34 inches. S. and F. same shade,, 
rare violet blue. Peterson variety. 
Perfection (neglecta), 30 inches. S. fresh lavender, 
flecked with deeper shade, F. rich velvety lavender, 
dark reflections. Bicolor. Has more blossoms on one 
stalk than any other sort. 
Dalmatica (pallida), 44 inches. S. and F. delicate 
lavender with pink reflections A pastel shade much 
sought for. with broad glaucous foliage. 
Alcazar (squalens), 36 inches. S. blue violet, F. rich 
ruby slightly veined. 
Violacea Grandiflora (pallida), 32 inches. S. and F. 
fresh clear violet. Massive and blooms late. 
PINK VIOLET. 
Dorothee (germanica), 20 inches. S. and F. a rob- 
in's egg blue blending to a deep heliotrope. 
Mrs. Alan Gray (pallida), 22 inches. S. and F. deli- 
cate orchid pink, all the same shade. 
Lohengrin (pallida), 33 inches. S. and F. pink sil- 
very mauve, shading nearly to white at the claw. A 
tall, strong grower, with wide leaves. Undoubtedly 
the most desirable of all the pallidas. 
Isoline (squalens), 36 inches. The Imperial Manda- 
rin. S. opalescent lilac three inches long, surmount- 
ing an apron of 3%-inch mauve falls. 
Her Majesty (pallida), 30 inches. S. pinkish violet 
tourmaline, F. deeper shade heavily veined. The 
most pink variety in the collection. 
Queen Alexandra (squalens), 30 inches. S. lavender, 
F. pale purple, self-reliant in attitude. 
BRONZE. 
Prosper Ltugier (squalens), 3# inches. S. fiery 
bronze, F. velvety ruby purple, like a pansy bloom. 
Eldorado (squalens), 32 inches. S. fiery opalescent, 
F. old gold silhouetted with burnt purple. 
TElowtr (Brower 
Iris King (squalens), 28 inches S. bronze yellow, 
F. large maroon edged yellow. 
Quaker Lady (squalens), 36 inches. S. lilac mauve, 
F. deeper shade with old gold tinge. A modest though 
highly pleasing effect. 
YELLOW. 
Mrs. Neubronner (variegata), 28 inches. S. and F. 
rich, clear golden yellow, best solid yellow. Like 
giant daffodils. 
Darius (variegata), 26 inches. S. lemon yellow, F. 
amethyst with deep veining and yellow margin. 
Loreley (variegata), 30 inches. S. breast of a wild 
canary, F. creamy white with purple reticulations 
blending into a velvety purple mass near the ends. 
Shenvin Wright (variegata), 28 inches. S. and F. 
rich golden yellow without markings or shadings. 
WHITE. 
Florentina (species), 26 inches. S. and F. pearly 
white, source of orris root perfume; quite fragrant. 
Mrs. H. Darwin (amoena), 28 inches. S. and F. satin 
white with a little purple reticulation at the claw. 
Fairy (plicata), 36 inches. S. and F. resemble sun- 
kissed snow outlined by the faint azure of the sky. 
Rhein Nixe (amcena). 36 inches. S. pure white, F. 
raspberry purple, edged white. A most vigorous 
grower, always dependable. The only one of the 
white standards and purple falls worthy of beinglkept 
in our list. 
La Neige (variegata), 26 inches. S. and T F. a pure 
waxy white without any throat veinings. 
FRILLED. 
Ma Mie (plicata), 32 inches. S. and F. clear white, 
delicately frilled blue lavender. 
Madame Chereau (plicata), 42 inches. S. and F. 
clear white with distinct frilled blue lavender edge. 
Parisiana (plicata), 28 inches. S. lavender pink 
mottled all over, F. creamy white center heavily bor- 
dered with lavender pink. 
Mercedes (plicata), 30 inches. S. purplish lilac 
shaded brown toward claw, F. ivory white ground 
veined and dotted purple. 
Mary Garden (Farr), 28 inches. S. pale yellow 
flushed pale lavender, F. creamy white minutely 
dotted and veined maroon. 
Grandmother’s Garden. 
In grandmother’s garden the Roses red 
Grew in a long, straight, garden bed. 
By yellow Roses with small close leaves : 
And Yuccas— we called them Adams-and-Eves 1— 
Threaded with fringes of fairy weaves ; 
By Marigolds in velvet browns. 
And Heart’s-ease in their splendid gowns; 
Primrose waiting the twilight hours ; 
Touch-Me-Nots and Gilliflowers. 
Was it October or June, or May, 
Grandmother’s garden was always gay. 
In grandmother’s garden the Iris blue 
Unfurled his banner, his snood leaves drew 
And marshalled the slim, red Tulips tall, 
The Peony’s bursting crimson ball, 
The Almond wandsand the Moss Pinks small. 
Buttercups spendthrift of their gold. 
Columbines misers of sweets untold, 
Gay Sweet Williams, and Four-O’Clocks, 
Prodigal sheaves of the cool white Phlox, 
The lovely Army has long marched past 
For grandmother’s garden could not last. 
— Woman's N. F. and G. A. Monthly Bulletin. 
29 
Forced Lilac. 
One of the most beautiful of our hardy 
shrubs is the Lilac, and, fortunately, it is one 
of our best hardy shrubs for forcing during 
the winter. For this purpose it is admirably 
adapted, for it will force in almost any place 
where a temperature of 50 degs. can be main- 
tained. Even a cellar or dark Mushroom- 
house will answer. Of course, under such 
conditions the flowers will be white, and there 
will be an absence of foliage. 
It must not be supposed that because the 
Lilac so readily responds to heat no prepa- 
ration is necessary in order to achieve the 
best results. One often sees it recommended 
to dig large bushes up from the shrubbery, 
and either place them in very large pots or 
wrap the roots in damp mats and place them 
in heat at once. Such rough treatment is 
not likely to meet with much success. In 
the first place, although these large bushes 
appear to show an abundance of flower while 
in the shrubbery, the actual number of flower- 
trusses is small compared with the size of 
the plant when forced, because it will be 
found that a great percentage of the promis- 
ing buds will be blind, and in nine cases out 
of ten the result will be disappointing. Far 
better have smaller and neater plants with 
an equal quantity of bloom on them, and in 
suitable-sized pots, such as might be used 
conveniently in house decoration. To obtain 
such plants some care will be needed. In 
the first place, such kinds as are known to 
force well must be selected, and above all, 
refuse “grafted” plants. Unfortunately, it 
has become a common practice with the 
nurserymen to graft nearly all Lilacs on the 
Privet. Even if it were necessary to graft, 
the Privet is a most unsuitable stock. Again, 
why graft a plant which will root as readily 
as a Gooseberry or Currant, and which can 
be grown with a clean stem just as easily? 
If cuttings are taken in October, prepared in 
a similar way to Gooseberries, and planted 
in a similar way, a very large percentage 
will root and quickly grow into plants suit- 
able for forcing in three years. They should 
be pruned much in the same way as Red 
Currants the first two years. In the third 
year, of course, no pruning must be done. 
Encourage them to make well-matured 
growth, not necessarily long growth, but 
stout, well -ripened shoots, such as are seen 
in well-established bushes in the shrubbery. 
This can be accomplished by a little atten- 
tion at the proper time of year, carefully 
running the spade round each plant and 
slightly lifting early in September. This 
simple detail is the most essential of all in 
the preparation for forcing. This is just 
sufficient to check any further growth and 
cause the buds to mature thoroughly. As 
soon as the leaves begin to change colour 
the plants might be potted and stood in an 
exposed part of the garden, where they will 
get the benefit of the autumn sun and No- 
vember frosts. This will further mature the 
buds and bring the plants into first-rate con- 
dition for hard forcing, if this is found neces- 
sary. 
The same plants cannot be forced every 
year. They must have a season to recoup. 
They can, however, be forced every second 
year if properly attended to, as above de- 
scribed. — T. Arnold in Gardening Illustrated. 
[English.] * 
The organization of the American 
Iris Society is taking place in New 
York as we go to press this month. 
From all indications it would seem that 
this organization will be one of the 
most active in the country, and those 
who are interested in the Iris even in a 
small way, should become members. 
Like our other modern summer-flow- 
ering plants its possibilities have not 
yet been fully developed. 
