152 
September, 1920 
Slower (Brower 
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Iris Borer. 
Queries and Answers Department. 
“ All questions asked in good faith and which are of general interest will have careful attention. i 
| The full name and address of the writer must be given, but not for publication.” | 
Commercial Fertilizer for Gladioli. 
To the Editor : - 
Can you give me exact information in regard to the 
use of commercial fertilizer on Gladioli ? I am trying 
to find out how high a grade I can use, and how much 
to the acre, to the best advantage. 1 am now using 
2-8-4. Should any or all of the three forms of plant 
food, nitrogen, phosphorus or potash be increased? 
My rows are 225 feet long, making about 97 to the 
acre, two feet apart. At the rate of a ton to the acre 
this would figure about 20 pounds of phosphate to the 
row. Does that seem enough ? The rate of a ton to 
the acre for most crops is regarded as generous, and 
yet i would not hesitate to increase that if the crop 
will be actually benefited. V\ hat do you think ? And 
what is the most successful practice in this regard ? 
Is it best to throw the application all in the row at 
one time just before planting, and mix the earth or on 
top immediately after planting? 
W. G. Nyce. 
Answer — It is pretty safe to take the 
quantity recommended by the acre and re- 
duce it to a row as you have. Of course, a 
ton of phosphate to the acre is a mighty 
heavy application and we would suggest 
that it should not be any more than you 
have figured it, and we are inclined to recom- 
mend that it should be less. 
In using commercial fertilizers, and per- 
haps stable manure, wood ashes, sheep 
manure, and most anything else as a ferti- 
lizer for garden crops, there are more mis- 
takes made in applying too much than in 
applying too little. Personally, we are very 
cautious about such things and would rather 
err on the side of under fertilizing, than over 
fertilizing. 
Our impression is not to put the fertilizer 
in the row before planting, but rather to 
apply it between the rows as evenly as pos- 
sible over the surface and cultivate in. 
We might suggest in this connection that 
no commercial fertilizers will take the place 
of stable manure altogether. In other words, 
the two should be used together, unless 
perhaps plenty of manure has been applied 
during former crop years and the ground is 
well supplied with humus. Humus is as 
necessary to good plant growth as are the 
chemical elements. 
Madison Cooper. 
Perennial Phlox Blight. 
To the Editor :— 
I have been troubled, and still have serious trouble 
with blight on perennial Phlox, on some varieties 
beginning early in the spring and completely ruin- 
ing the plants. Have tried spraying with different 
mixtures which arrest the blight to a certain extent 
but not preventing it entirely. 
Can you advise what kind of preparation is most 
effective, or what treatment can be given to prevent 
or cure the disease ? 
Am also troubled with rust on Foxgloves. Last 
year nearly all our young plants were effected and 
most all died. Would also like some light on a pre- 
ventive or cure for this. 
Would like to hear from your readers through the 
columns of your magazine as well as your personal 
experience. Mrs. D. L. B. 
Answer— Apparently perennial Phlox in 
common with Hollyhocks, Foxglove and 
other plants of a similar nature, are subject 
to blight or rust which is prevalent some 
seasons very much more than others. In 
this section (Northern New York), 1919 
was an exceptionally favorable year for 
Hollyhocks and perennial Phlox, and this 
season, 1920, is not far behind. Hollyhocks 
have made a beautiful display of bloom for 
some weeks and they and the Phloxes are 
only just beginning to blight during the first 
days of August. 
We have never used any spray or any 
other remedy for Hollyhock or Phlox blight 
or rust. Doubtless some sprays might prove 
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effective, but the difficulty of reaching all 
parts of the plant makes it almost out of the 
question for any spray to prove thoroughly 
effective. We prefer to take our chances on 
the weather and not go to the trouble of 
spraying. 
If any of our readers can throw additional 
light on this subject and give us some exact 
information and suggestions for methods 
which have proved effective in practice, we 
will appreciate it not only for our subscriber 
but for ourself. 
Collecting, Storing and 
Planting Gladiolus Seed. 
To the Editor :— 
Will you please advise me I he proper method in car- 
ing for Gladiolus seed ? When the bloom dries on the 
stalk should the seed be protected in any way, or left 
open to the air? Also in planting is any special 
preparation of the ground necessary ? I. S. K. 
Answer— It is a very simple matter to save 
Gladiolus seed. As soon as the seed pods 
show brown in color from ripening they may 
be gathered and stored in any dry place. 
Experience indicates that Gladiolus seed is 
very easy to store and that it has good ger- 
minating properties after several years’ stor- 
age. 
In planting Gladiolus seed it is not neces 
sary to remove the film or wings with which 
nature provides it, as many have done. It 
can just as well be planted as it is shelled 
out of the pods. It is necessary to remove 
the seed from the seed pods in order to dis- 
tribute them evenly in the ground. 
No special preparation of ground is neces- 
sary other than it should be mellow and 
rich. The seed should be sowed thickly and 
covered half to three-quarters of an inch, 
and to keep the ground moist pieces of thin 
carpeting or old burlap may be placed over 
the seed bed and weighted or staked to pre- 
vent the wind from blowing it off. When 
the seedlings begin to appear thickly the 
covering may be removed, but in dry weather 
it is sometimes advisable to water with a 
sprinkling pot or hose spray both before and 
after removal of the covering. 
A Rose Pest. 
To the Editor :— 
Can any of the readers of your valuable paper, help 
me out with regard to a new insect pest on my Roses, 
in particular on the Grus-an-Teplitz ? On the tender 
branch a short distance below the bunch of new buds, 
the stalk was girdled as neatly as if done with an 
instrument, about the width of a straw, and half an 
inch below the first girdle a second was made. My 
attention was drawn to the bunch of buds hanging 
down. I could find no insect, even opened the stalk 
but could discover nothing. 
I will be very grateful to any of your readers, if 
they can tell me just what to do, about this new Rose 
pest. The girdling looks as if done with a tracing 
wheel, edges smooth and perfectly made. 
Mrs. W. A. Carson. 
Madonna Lilies Wanted. 
To the Editor :— 
Where can I get Madonna Lilies in quantity 
to make a permanent bed for the sale of cut 
flowers? The Madonna Lily seems to succeed 
well the first year, but not the second. Please 
tell me how to cultivate and get a permanent 
bed. 
Mrs. D. R. Andrews. 
Doubtless those who have this particular Lily for 
sale would do well to mention it in their advertising. 
Will not some of our readers tell us something about 
the culture of the Madonna Lily? The Editor. 
What can you tell us about the Iris borer ? We find 
it most plentiful here, (Southern Ohio), first in the 
stem and then it eats down into the bulb or rhizome. 
How are the eggs laid and what is the end of the 
worm after it eats the root ? Does it die or lay eggs 
or go on to another plant ? I am terrified over the 
amount of these detestable beasts. Let me know 
more about them. Can it be possible this is the corn 
borer ? Mrs. Samuel H. Taft. 
Please note what Secretary Sturtevant says in the 
American Iris Society Department this month. The 
corn borer and Iris borer are separate and dis- 
tinct.- Ed. 
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CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING. 
Five lines (about 40 words) $1.50 per insertion. Ad- 
ditional lines 20 c. each. 
GLADIOLI 
Arvada, Colorado, 8-16-1920. 
(Near Denver.) 
Madison Cooper, 
Calcium, N. Y., 
Dear Sir— 
I used The Flower Grower to announce what 
Gladiolus stock I had to spare - several years ago. 
The repeat orders from that add have kept me sold out 
ever since. I will send you copy for add this fall as 
soon as I get them dug so I know what I have for sale 
of the varieties I am growing since my last add. 
Cordially yours, 
E. M. Hoyt. 
pOR 
SALE— Booking fall orders for Gladiolus Bulbs 
now. Peace, Pendleton, Crackerjack, Intensity, 
Herada, Halley, Loveliness, Faust, 1910 Rose, Mary 
Fennell, Niagara, Schwaben, War and many others. 
Also fine mixtures. Write for quotations on all sizes. 
Gladiolus Bill, Clyde, Ohio. 
DARGAINS for early buyers. To induce early buy- 
ing, which eliminates much of the hurly-burly of 
the busy season, the following attractive prices are 
quoted — good until October fifth only : America. 
Halley, King, 35 cents per dozen. Peace, Panama, 
Niagara, 60 cents per dozen. Postage paid. Glad- 
wood Gardens. Copemish, Mich. 
pOR SALE — Surplus Gladiolus bulbs from the fine 
A varieties which won the Kunderd gold medal and 
various other prizes at the last American show. 
Mrs. M. B. Hawks, Elmwood Terrace, 
Bennington, Vt. 
“CAY IT WITH FLOWERS ?”-Certainly, but let 
^ the flowers be Gladioli. I ship anywhere, up to 
4th zone, large box postpaid, $1.25. Bulbs- whole- 
sale— retail— in season. Choice new kinds. 
C. I. Hunt. Nunda, N.Y. 
PAST HARTFORD GLADIOLUS CO.-We will 
■*-' book orders for fall delivery, 1920 or spring 1921, by 
the dozen or the thousand. E. M. Smith, Pres, and 
Mgr., No. 65 Olmsted St., East Hartford, Conn. 
IRISES 
5000 Pallida Dalmatica (true to name.) 2000 
Rheine Nixe, also choice lot of best named 
varieties of Iris for sale. 
F. Wentink, Salisbury Mills. N.Y. 
CIBERIAN IRISES— Blue Siberian and White Si- 
*0 berian. Fine for massing in borders. Grow in any 
soil. Excellent for cut flowers, $1.75 per dozen ; $8 a 
hundred. Mrs. W. E. Clark, Sunnymede, Sharon, 
Mass. 
/"\UR Sept. Iris Offer We have a plot of ground 
that must be cleared of Iris this fall and I will 
make the astounding offer of $3 a hundred by express 
for these Irises. In mixture only, but including at 
least ten of Pallida. Ward, Plantsman, Hillsdale. 
Michigan. 
MISCELLANEOUS 
TYTARCISSUS or Jonquil bulbs, bedding size, fin e 
’ to multiply, 30 for $1, mailed postpaid, cash with 
order. Varieties are Sir Watkins and Emperor. I 
want to buy Lily Candidum (Madonna Lily) and Jap- 
anese Lily bulbs. Hugh C. Schmitt, Evansville, Ind. 
TVARWIN TULIPS— Special Planting stock— Bulbs 
average about half regular size, or a little less. 
Same as I plant. Some will bloom first season. All 
should bloom the second, and for years afterwards. 
Long's Special Mixture, 100 bulbs, $2 ; 300 for $5 pre- 
paid. Not listed in my catalogue. Offered only in 
The Flower Grow er. 
J. D.’Long, Boulder, Colorado. 
CPECIAL Perennial Plant Offer — 30 choice plants, at 
least five kinds, my selection, prepaid for $1.75. 
Ward, Plantsman, Hillsdale, Mich. 
