160 
Z3b e Tlow^r (Brower 
October, 1920 
THE ROSE 
Planting of Roses. 
This is often delayed until the leaves have 
fallen, but where the best results are desired 
next season, planting should be proceeded 
with at once. The plants should be cut well 
back, all broken or damaged roots shortened, 
also all the leaves removed in order to assist 
root action, which will take place immedi- 
ately if the work is carried out while the soil 
is still warm. Where beds have become thin 
from various causes and in need of filling up, 
it is a good plan to take out a hole one foot 
to eighteen inches deep where such plants 
are to go and fill it, when planting, with fresh 
compost, presuming the bed is in good heart 
and the remaining plants satisfactory. I have 
seen Roses treated on sandy soils in this way, 
clayey soil being used with splendid results. 
I will give an instance of the advantage of 
early planting. Some beds hitherto filled 
with Roses were required for Phloxes, and it 
was decided to move the former early in 
October. The beds for these Roses not be- 
ing ready at the time, they were laid in nur- 
sery-beds. On November5th they were again 
lifted and transferred to their new quarters. 
Although many of these were quite old plants 
they had become a mass of fibrous roots dur- 
ing this short period and were taking hold of 
the soil in the most delightful manner, illus- 
trating what a splendid practice it is to get 
the planting done while there is still warmth 
in the soil. The advantage derived is very 
noticeable the following year. I have planted 
Roses in January and February when the 
soil has been wet and soapy, and have found, 
even six weeks later, not the slightest sign 
of new root action. If early planting were 
more generally adopted we should hear 
less of plants having succumbed during the 
winter. E. 
Whatever is done in preparing for 
Roses must be done well, as only good cul- 
ture will give satisfactory returns. When the 
soil is got ready several weeks in advance of 
planting it gets settled down and is, conse- 
quently, in a better state to receive the 
plants. In preparing the site for a Rose-bed, 
deep working and moderate manuring are 
essential. If the soil is good, the ground 
only needs trenching to a depth of three feet 
adding some good rotten manure, keeping 
this well down so that it will not come in 
contact with the roots. On poor, shallow, or 
very light soils it is necessary to remove part 
of the sub-soil and replace with good, fresh, 
turfy loam of rather a heavy, greasy nature. 
Roses also dislike stagnant moisture at the 
roots ; thus in low-lying situations where the 
soil is very heavy and retentive, it may be 
necessary to lighten the staple with burnt 
refuse, road scrapings, etc. The beds should 
be simple in form, and, if planting for effect, 
preference should be given to Hybrid Teas 
and the best China Roses, planting in masses 
of one sort.— F. W. G. — Gardening Illustrated. 
(English.) 
Rosa Nitida. 
Looking through the garden in the last 
days of November, one is struck with the 
brightness of the scarlet hips of Rosa Nitida 
and the ruddy coloring of the younger 
branches. Its late bloom is probably the 
causeof its retaining its hips longer in beauty 
than many of the other Roses, while the 
fact that they are plentifully produced makes 
the plant much more attractive. These hips 
are small compared with those of many of 
the other Rose species, but their pretty glob- 
ular form and bright scarlet hue make them 
specially attractive. — Ess. — Gardening Illus- 
trated. (English.) 
Autumn and Winter Pruning of Tea 
Roses. 
Gardening, like other arts, is overridden by 
stereotyped rules, among them that we must 
not prune Roses until April. I followed this 
for years, and saw the fair La Tosco and 
Marie Van Houtte knocked about by equin- 
octial and other gales, the stems at base 
forming a greasy pithole with the ceaseless 
movement of the winds. I have had some 
thousands of like Roses over long years and 
make no difference between the Teas and 
Hybrid Teas, thinking that a vain attempt at 
classification. 
Then doubts arose as to the wisdom of 
letting the most beautiful of Roses be 
knocked about like briars during our long 
winters, and I began to relieve the bushes a 
little from the power of storms by cutting 
them half way down. That did a little good, 
but it led to a better way. 
I begin to prune in late October and do all 
I can in November, and with good results. I 
prune close to the best young growths. This 
helps also in clearing the beds so that we 
may attend to the various surface plants be- 
neath the Roses. I never mulch except 
with living plants, often choice perennials, 
Pansies, Wood Forget-me-nots, Missouri Eve- 
ning Primrose, Grey Speedwell, and Wall 
Hairbell. As I write (November 25th) some 
of the beds are done and ready for the 
spring. Others I hope to finish this month 
leaving as little as possible to add to the 
spring work. A few beds only are left fallow 
for things we can only plant or sow in early 
summer— Heliotrope, Mignonette, some Car- 
nations, and the choicer annual flowers of 
California and Australia, Rhodanthe, and 
Swan River Daisy. Some of the Californian 
annuals I sow in September in Rose-beds not 
requiring much change, Nemophila insignis 
and Collinsia bicolor are now fresh in growth 
among the Roses. If one lived in the Riviera 
or France the Roses would bloom on, but in 
our clime they waste their energies trying to 
grow, and they are far better at complete 
rest. — W. R. in Gardening Illustrated. (Eng- 
lish.) 
Rose fanciers will be glad to know 
that we have an article on the history 
of Rose growing in America for No- 
vember. Our November issue will be 
somewhat of a Rose number and con- 
tain much information on Roses. 
American Rose Society 
The following Roses have been approved 
by the registration committee of the Ameri- 
can Rose Society, and unless objections are 
received within three weeks of this publica- 
tion the registration will become permanent. 
Name— Red Columbia. 
Class— Hybrid Tea. 
Parentage— Sport of Columbia. 
Description — The general habit of the 
plant, character of the foliage and freedom 
of growth and hardiness is the same as 
Columbia. The flower is a long-pointed bud 
of good texture, and of a brilliant scarlet 
color which is similar to Hoosier Beauty. The 
petalage, however, is not as full as Columbia. 
Freedom of bloom and lasting qualities all 
that can be desired. 
Offered for registration by The Jos. H. 
Hill Company. 
Name— Betty Alden. 
Class — Polyantha. 
Parentage— Tausendschon x Dwarf Poly- 
antha. 
Description— Vigorous growth with glossy, 
dark green foliage; medium in size; very 
vigorous and hardy bud ; flowers single, in 
clusters ; color, apple blossom pink changing 
to pure white. 
Offered for registration by R. & J. Far- 
quahr. 
Name — Beacon Belle. 
Class— Polyantha. 
Parentage— Tausendschon x Dwarf Poly- 
antha. 
Description— Habit of plant, character of 
foliage, freedom of growth and hardiness 
similar to Betty Alden. Flowers in clusters, 
very double and many petaled and close ; 
flesh color becoming pure white when in full 
bloom; fragrance slight. 
Offered for registration by R. & J. Far- 
quahr. 
Name — Boston Beauty. 
Class — Polyantha. 
Parentage — Tausendschon x Dwarf Poly- 
antha. 
Description— Habit of plant, vigorous with 
leathery dark green foliage ; hardy in growth; 
flowers in clusters full and double. It is 
clear pink in color with strong fragrance. 
Offered for registration by R. & J. Far- 
quahr. 
Name— Eugenia. 
Class— Parentina. 
Parentage— Sport from Madam Eduard 
Herriot. 
Description— This variety is similar to the 
parent in all respects except that the flow- 
ers are flecked or striped with yellow. 
Offered for registration by H. L. Collier, 
Seattle, Wash. 
E. A. White, Sec’y. 
Instructions on Growing Mums. 
The Illinois State Florists’ Association are 
distributing quite a number of Chrysanthe- 
mum plants among the children of that State 
and they have published the following in- 
structions for the benefit of those who are 
taking advantage of the opportunity to secure 
the plants: 
“When the plant is received, pot it in a 
4-inch pot in good, rich soil, and place it 
where it will receive the full sunshine, and 
when large enough shift into a 6-inch pot, 
being careful to put in good drainage and to 
keep it well watered at all times. 
“When the plant is about 4 inches high, 
pinch out the top, which will make it pro- 
duce side branches, and when these are about 
3 inches long, pinch out the end, and so con- 
tinue to do until August 10, making a bushy, 
well shaped plant. 
“When the flower buds form, pinch off all 
but the one terminal bud on each branch; 
this will make better flowers of the ones that 
are left. When there is danger of frost see 
that the plants are covered, or in the house, 
as a frost would spoil the flowers. After the 
buds are set a little extra fertilizer will help 
make better flowers. 
“Another plan of growing would be to 
plant it out in a sunny place in the garden 
and keep well cultivated, keeping it pinched 
back and well shaped, same as described, 
and then about the first of September dig 
carefully and pot in a 6 or 7 inch pot, being 
careful to take it up in good shape and keep 
shaded and sprayed for a few days, when it 
should again have the full sunshine. If the 
pots are plunged in soil it will help keep 
them from drying out. Each plant should 
be tied to a neat stake with a thread leading 
to each branch.” 
In addition to giving away the plants the 
florists have gone to considerable expense 
to advertise the fact. 
