164 
color there is Franfield White. It is the 
earliest to flower. 
An extra early yellow of dwarf growth, 
very free flowering is the golden yellow 
Glory of Seven Oaks. 
Chaldon produces large flowers of reddish 
crimson, with each floret tipped with gold. 
It makes a fine plant. 
One of the most productive and choicest 
varieties, early in bloom and of a beautiful 
pink color is Hortense Malgat. 
In Tints of Gold we have a very beautiful 
extra large rich bronzy yellow, making a 
wonderful glowing bush if not disbudded for 
extra size flowers. When disbudded will 
produce blooms as large as those grown in 
the greenhouse. Properly speaking it be- 
longs to the greenhouse class but has shown 
up as entirely hardy and early flowering 
with me. 
Carmelite is of the deepest golden yellow 
and very free. Belle Mauve gives handsome 
blooms of a fine mauve color, is early and 
very free flowering. 
Another of my favorites is Brune Poitevine, 
giving finely formed, massive flowers of a 
deep velvety glowing crimson. It is very 
brilliant and free and of medium height. 
Can be made to produce very large blooms 
by disbudding. 
A strong grower with large flowers of a 
bronzy yellow color is Le Pactole. Disbud 
slightly. One of the finest is Petite Louis. It 
is a very strong grower, producing large 
finely formed blooms of a silvery mauve color. 
Size of bloom can be improved by disbud- 
ding. 
A collection of garden Chrysanthe- 
mums should include a few of the ane- 
mone type. These produce flowers with 
one or two rows of ray petals surround- 
ing a raised disk of highly developed or 
tubular central petals forming a cush- 
ion. The cushion is often of a differ- 
ent color than the ray petals. The 
anemone flowered Chrysanthemum can 
be had both in the pompon and the 
Japanese types. 
Gladys is a flesh white with yellow cushion. 
Extra early. Pompon, anemone type. Myer’s 
Pnfection is very large, sulphur white, yel- 
low cushion, early, and belongs to the pom- 
pon anemone class. Eugene Lanjaulet, a 
medium early variety is a deep orange yel- 
low. 
There are several of the large Japanese 
anemone flowered kinds worth mention here. 
Yellow Prince is a most beautiful bloom and 
can be had perfect either small, or large by 
disbudding. It has maize yellow drooping 
ray petals with a most prominent cushion of 
loosely arranged tubular orange yellow 
petals. It is compact in growth. 
Wee Wah is of the same general type as 
Yellow Prince, but is dwarf in growth and 
the general color effect is terra cotta shading 
to bronzy yellow. 
Juno is like the two preceding in every re- 
spect save color which is a delicately laven- 
der-tinted white in the ray petals with center 
slightly deeper. Growth is medium. 
Clemencia is a deep pink shading to a 
deeper tone in center. In Pepita we have a 
slightly differently formed flower. The cush- 
ion is small and nearly flat, of an orange 
yellow color, surrounded by a number of 
rows of heavy narrow petals of a pale pink, 
almost white. A flower much heavier than 
any of the others and very free in bloom. 
There is one plumed variety of Chrysan- 
themum, which for its fine bushy habit, 
medium tall height and for its free bloom- 
ing qualities should be included in the peren- 
nial border. It has proved hardy with me. 
It is a pure white in color with the char- 
acteristic hairlike formations on the petals 
and goes by the name of L’ Enfant. Dis- 
budded it will produce fine ball shaped 
blooms. Allowed to grow freely it will give 
Slower (Brower 
a number of fine looking flowers somewhat 
flat in form. 
It is desirable to include here a few 
of the large greenhouse varieties which 
have been tested thoroughly in this 
locality for hardiness, earliness and 
freedom of bloom. 
Golden Glow is about the earliest variety 
of all and so easy to grow. It is a rich deep 
yellow in color. Dwarf in growth. It can 
be made to give large blooms by disbudding. 
Unaka, a fine early pink tinted with lav- 
ender, when disbudded will give fine ball 
shaped flowers. Medium in height. 
In Clementine Touset we have a very de- 
pendable variety which gives fine large white 
flowers and is early in bloom. Monrovia is 
a very early deepest yellow. 
In Chrysolora we have a variety of medium 
tall growth, heavy foliage and one of the 
finest early deep yellows. It can be depended 
upon for fine flowers, regardless of size. 
Early Frost is a very early white following 
Golden Gloiv, giving perfect blooms full to 
center. 
Cultural Notes- 
Time to Plant : 
The best time to plant is during the 
latter part of April or early in May. 
Kind of Plants : 
When planting my border, if starting 
a new one, I set out young Chrysanthe- 
mum plants from 2| in. pots. These can 
be depended upon to produce fine 
blooming plants by fall. I have found 
it advisable to remove all plants that 
are three or four years old and replace 
those discarded with new inch pot 
plants, except the old plants which are 
still healthy and full of vigor, these 
being divided into smaller plants. 
Location : 
Chrysanthemums will grow almost 
anywhere, except in deepest shade. 
A sheltered location, and one that is 
sunny, is, however, best, for it is in 
such a place that the earliest bloom 
will show itself, so that some of the 
later flowering varieties can often be 
coaxed into earlier bloom. They will 
thrive and bloom finely against a wall 
or fence with southern exposure, but 
are apt to suffer here from excessive 
heat during midsummer, necessitating 
a daily watering. 
The best location is one protected 
from the burning afternoon sun, open 
to the air and the beneficial morning 
sun, and protected from cold and dry- 
ing northwest winds. 
Soil : 
Chrysanthemums, though not too 
particular as to location, are, how- 
ever, fastidious as to soil. The best 
soil is one that is loose and friable, but 
well enriched with rotted cow manure 
or one of the commercial humus 
preparations now on the market. Strive 
toward a warm soil retentive of mois- 
ture, as Chrysanthemum roots are 
shallow and spreading. 
Feeding: 
When the plants are strong and 
healthy, fertilize with weekly applica- 
tions of liquid manure made as follows: 
Using a watering can with the Rose 
spray spout removed, put in two or 
three cups of pulverized dry cow or 
sheep manure and add water to fill the 
October, 1920 
can. Mix thoroughly. Keeping the mix- 
ture well stirred pour copiously around 
the plants, the soil of which had prev- 
iously been well watered. The loose 
manure will act as a mulch and being 
wet will not soon blow away. Some 
of the soluble fertilizer of the manure 
becomes immediately available to the 
plants. Feeding should be discontinued 
when the buds show color. 
Cultivation : 
Cultivate often, particularly after a 
driving rain, but not deep. Allow no 
crust to form around the plants. Much 
of this cultivation can be avoided by 
using a light mulch of rotted cow or 
sheep manure. The mulch will keep 
down weeds and prevent the formation 
of crusts. 
Pruning: 
When starting with young plants, 
these, when they are six inches or so 
in height, should be pruned to force 
them into a bushy growth. One prun- 
ing will produce from three to six or 
eight stems. Be guided by your own 
ideal. 
Insects : 
I have noted that old clumps often 
harbor diseases or destructive insects, 
some of the latter being difficult to 
eradicate, particularly a gray winged 
insect with wings that stand out giv- 
ing it the appearance of a small woolly 
sheep. It feeds altogether on the un- 
der side of the leaf, congregating in 
colonies like the red spider, but minus 
the web, and if not checked will surely 
result in the ruination of the plants. 
Spraying with a weak solution of kero- 
sene emulsion is a sure means of ex- 
terminating the pest. It must be done 
thoroughly, making sure that the spray 
actually gets to the under side of the 
leaves. Repeat this spraying every 
few days for several weeks or until an 
examination reveals no more of the 
pest. It is known by the name of 
Corythuca Gossypi. Another pest but 
one not so destructive as the preceding 
and easier to control is the black and 
green aphis. Eradication is obtained 
through the use of some tobacco or 
nicotine preparation. As spraying 
must cease when the buds are opening, 
it is therefore imperative that the 
aphis and other insects be extermi- 
nated completely before the buds show 
color. Caterpillars are occasionally 
found eating the leaves. Hand picking 
is usually sufficient unless their num- 
bers are too great. It is then neces- 
sary to spray with arsenate of lead or 
other suitable preparation that is 
poisonous to chewing insects. 
A word about the gardener’s friend, 
the lady bug. In the grub stage it has 
an elongated, flatish body of a leaden 
or slaty color and it crawls about the 
plant searching for food, and, when 
finding a colony of aphides, makes 
short work of them. It feeds continu- 
ously until it changes into a chrysalis, 
when it remains gummed to the plant 
until its metamorphosis is completed 
into a winged adult which also shows 
its friendship to mankind and plants 
by being continually on the hunt for 
aphides and small insects. 
Mealy bugs sometimes infest the 
