Z3l)£ Slower (Brower 165 
Forcing Hyacinths for Winter Bloom. 
By Bertha Berbert-Hammond in Gardeners’ Chronicle. 
October, 1920 
densely leaved sorts, eradication of 
which may be obtained by spraying 
with nicotine sulphate "Black’Leaf 40.” 
Diseases : 
The two fungus diseases most met 
within the garden culture of the Chrys- 
anthemum are stem rot and mildew. 
Stem rot is caused by the use of rank 
manure, containing rotting vegetable 
matter, in the planting soil or to rot- 
ting stems, leaves and roots of old 
plants. Its attack is denoted by the 
wilting of the leaves, owing to the fact 
that the fungus takes possession of 
the tissues, preventing the plant from 
absorbing moisture from the roots, 
and this fungus eventually takes hold 
of the whole plant. An examination 
of an affected plant will show a circle 
of white mold near the surface of the 
soil, but the first infection was in the 
soil. Little can be done to combat 
such an attack, and the safest course 
is to destroy the affected plants. Mil- 
dew sometimes manifests itself. Al- 
most everyone is familiar with the 
white powdery mold on the leaves 
which indicates its presence. It is due 
to various causes. It is checked by an 
application of some sulphur prepara- 
tion, one of the best being sulphide of 
potassium, sprayed on. 
Winter Protection : 
The only protection I give my plants 
in the winter is a light covering of 
leaves or straw, this being put on after 
the ground has frozen hard. 
Catalogues and Price Lists. 
H. W. Groschner, Napoleon, Ohio— Catalogue of 
Irises with unusually complete suggestions with ref- 
erence to varieties. 
P. Vos & Son, Mount Clemens, Mich. — Wholesale 
list of Gladioli. The Vos varieties and selections 
from the best American and foreign introductions. 
Prices quoted on various sizes and bulblets. 
M. F. Wright & Daughter, 401 S. Clay St., Sturgis, 
Mich.— Retail list of Gladiolus corms. A very select 
list with the Kunderd varieties especially repre- 
sented. 
Oronogo Flower Gardens, Carterville, Mo.— Cata- 
logue of Tulips, Narcissi, Peonies, Irises, etc. Also 
wholesale list. 
Mrs. Wm. Crawford, 1602 Indiana Ave., La Porte, 
Ind. Catalogue of Peonies and Irises from the Craw- 
ford Gardens. An unusually complete list divided by 
source of origination. 
P. Hopman & Son, Hillegom, Holland. Catalogue 
and price list of Gladioli. 
Van Wert Iris Gardens, Van Wert, Ohio— Iris cata- 
logue consisting of 36 pages and cover. An unusually 
complete list with carefully prepared descriptions. 
Bertrand H. Farr, Wyomissing, Pa.— Catalogue of 
hardy plants. Over a hundred pages with index and 
color illustrations. Irises, Peonies, Phloxes, etc. 
J. D. Long, Boulder, Colorado— Fall catalogue and 
price list of timely flower stocks. 
Help The Flower Grower. 
Those who publish catalogues of 
flower stocks are earnestly solicited to 
say a good word for The Flower 
Grower. In helping The Flower 
Grower you indirectly help yourself 
as The Flower Grower is the greatest 
exponent of the outdoor summer-flow- 
ering plants. Just give the name of The 
Flower Grower, its publisher’s name 
and address, and any friendly words 
of comment that you see fit and you 
will perform a very useful bit of mis- 
sionary work. 
Hyacinths purple and white and blue 
Flung from their bells sweet peals anew 
Of music, so delicate, soft and intense 
It seemed an odor within the sense. 
— Shelley. 
While the fragrant Hyacinths are quite 
widely and successfully grown as out door 
spring-blooming flowers, their culture for in- 
door winter blooming is to some amateurs, 
still veiled in mystery. 
The large flowering single and double 
varieties of Dutch Hyacinths, so called be- 
cause the skillful bulb-growers of Holland, 
have specialized in their development are un- 
excelled for use either as early spring garden 
flowers that like the daffodils mentioned by 
Shakespeare, “come before the swallow 
dares,” or for indoor window forcing. 
For bedding out, the inexpensive, medium- 
sized disease-resistant, old varieties of Dutch 
Hyacinths will give complete satisfaction, as 
they produce showy spikes of fragrant bloom 
the first season and will continue to bloom 
for several successive seasons, but for forc- 
ing, where one season of gorgeous display is 
the goal, the best developed bulbs of the 
choicest, early-flowering varieties are essen- 
tial. To be certain of securing strong spikes 
of finest bloom, buy only the extra well- 
developed, selected bulbs. As the quality of 
the trusses is determined by the quality of 
the bulbs, there is no economy in the pur- 
chase of weak, undersized, or inferior stock 
for the purpose of forcing. Only large, 
strong, vigorous bulbs will assure the large 
magnificent flowers that Dutch Hyacinths 
can produce. The single varieties of Hya- 
cinths, that are particularly graceful and fra- 
grant, are considered the most desirable for 
pot culture. They are easier to force than 
most of the double sorts, and send up superb 
trusses of flowers in a wide range of beauti- 
ful colors. One who has successfully grown 
these Hyacinths, can readily appreciate the 
sentiment of Mahomet expressed in the 
stanza— 
If thou by fortune be bereft 
And in thy store there be but left 
Two loaves— sell one and with the dole 
Buy Hyacinths to feed thy soul. 
The forcing in bloom of Dutch Hyacinths 
is quite simple ; they can be successfully 
forced in water, potted soil or in prepared 
Holland fibre, the latter a commercial substi- 
tute for potting soil. This fiber, which can 
be purchased of florists, has the advantage of 
being clean, odorless, and easy to handle. 
As with its use, a pot with a drainage-hole is 
not required, any fancy bowl, deep dish, urn 
or jardiniere may be employed to hold the 
bulbs. It is a very neat, interesting and con- 
venient way of forcing bulbs, and one that 
will appeal to the city dweller, who has diffi- 
culty in securing proper potting soil. To 
grow the bulbs in this way, fill the receptacle 
selected nearly full of moistened fiber, embed 
the bulbs in it, allowing the top of each bulb 
to protrude. Place receptacle containing the 
bulbs into a dark, well-ventilated closet or 
cellar, until the bulbs have made ample root 
growth, in the meantime keeping the fibre 
uniformly moist ( not wet), then bring them 
gradually into light and warmth, avoiding 
direct sunlight. 
For the purpose of forcing the bulbs in 
water, there are obtainable special Hyacinth 
glasses that hold the bulb nicely. Fill the 
Hyacinth glass with rain water until it nearly 
touches the base of the bulbs. Put the glass 
containing the bulb and water away in a dark 
cool place until the bulbs are well-rooted. Do 
not disturb the roots by changing the water, 
but carefully add water as required. A piece 
of charcoal in each glass to purify the water 
may be used to advantage. After the Hya- 
cinth bulbs show sufficient root growth they 
may be brought to light and heat. Hyacinths 
may also be grown in water in the same way 
the Chinese Sacred Lily is treated, viz.: the 
bulbs placed in a deep dish of water and 
held in place by pebbles or small stones. 
To force in soil, put each bulb in a four- 
inch pot (or a larger pot or pan if a group of 
a kind is desired). See that good drainage 
is provided, fill the pot nearly full of rich 
earth, scoop out a shallow hole, and set 
the bulb into the place so prepared for it, 
firming the soil around the sides of the bulb 
and leaving the neck exposed above the sur- 
face of the soil. By this means, the earth 
underneath the bulb will be left soft and 
porous, permitting the rootlets, as formed, to 
penetrate the soil easily. After the bulbs 
have been properly potted, water them 
thoroughly and place in a dark cool storage 
place to root. This will require from six to 
eight weeks. 
By bringing a few bulbs from the storage 
place at intervals, a succession of bloom may 
be had from Christmas until after Easter. 
The flowers will last a long time if kept in a 
cool room (about 60°), and away from direct 
sunlight. 
After the bulbs have ceased to bloom and 
the foliage has died down, withhold water, 
place bulbs in the cellar and leave them until 
Autumn, then plant out in a permanent bed. 
Though useless for forcing, out of doors 
these bulbs will regain vigor and in time will 
bloom. 
In conclusion, I wish to emphasize the fact 
that the forcing of bulbs is a simple opera- 
tion, the great secret in the culture being to 
use only the best “top root” bulbs, and to se- 
cure thorough root growth before bringing 
the bulbs gradually into light and warmth. 
Observing these precautions, success is cer- 
tain. 
The New England Fair. 
The Gladiolus show at the New Eng- 
land Fair held in Worcester, September 
3rd to 7th, inclusive, was not quite as 
large as last year, but, as I overheard 
an official say, “ not as many in num- 
bers but better in quality.” There 
were more entries than ever before, 
but some who entered failed to put in 
an appearance. 
The Glads were staged at the north 
end of Agricultural Hall, covering a 
space of from 300 to 400 square feet. 
Mr. C. W. Brown, of Ashland, had 
some beautiful flowers, among them 
many of his seedlings. Mr. J. K. Alex- 
ander, (The Dahlia King) of East 
Bridgewater, had his usual fine exhibit 
of choice varieties. Edgar M. Wilson, 
of Worcester, also had some good 
bloom. The collections occupied a 
space of 90 square feet each. 
AWARDS. 
First and the silver cup, offered by Mr. Walter D. 
Ross, President of the Worcester Agricultural Society, 
for best collection, to Mr. Wilson: 2nd to Mr. Alex- 
ander; 3rd to Mr. Brown. 
Best 10 spikes seedlings— First, Mr. Brown. 
Best vase 12 spikes. White. First, Mr. Wilson, with 
Europa ; 2nd, Mr. Brown. 
Best vase 12 spikes, Yellow. First, Mr. Brown ; 
2nd, Mr. Wilson. 
Best vase 12 spikes. Pink. First. Mr. Wilson ; 2nd, 
Mrs. Edward Warren ; 3rd, Mr. Brown. 
Best 12 spikes. Blue, First, Mr. Brown. 
Best 20 spikes, 1 spike in a vase. First, Mr. Wilson ; 
2nd. Mr. Brown. 
Edgar M. Wilson. 
We must apologize for lateness of 
the October issue, but we hope to do 
better with the November number. 
