184 
The Resting Period of Plants. 
No matter how successfully summer flow- 
ering bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants 
may have been grown, or what their appear- 
ance during summer may be, this is no cri- 
terion of the grower’s ability to grow them 
to perfection, unless he is capable of doing 
this every year. It is a more difficult matter 
to successfully store away the bulbs and 
tubers and to care for them over winter than 
to grow them. This may be proven by the 
large numbers that die during the winter 
resting period. Therefore to successfully 
bring them through the winter is really the 
criterion of ability in the culture of these 
subjects. 
Many forget that bulbs and tubers live 
during the resting period as during summer. 
The difference is that they are not visibly 
growing, though actually they are. Even in 
dormancy certain essential changes take 
place, the only difference being that vitality 
is reduced. This resting may be likened to 
the sleep of a person. Surely by no stretch 
of the imagination can we regard a person in 
this state as dead. Once the grower of bulb- 
ous and tuberous-rooted plants becomes im- 
pressed with the idea that he is not handling 
dead, worthless things, he will give them 
proper living conditions even during winter, 
when it is necessary for them to rest or 
“sleep.” 
Another important thing we are apt to for- 
get is that the summer flowering bulbous 
and tuberous-rooted plants we store away 
during winter are all, or nearly all, tender 
exotics, and, therefore, not being hardy they 
cannot stand the low winter temperatures, as 
do our native plants. 
The two important things then to bear in 
mind are, that bulbs and tubers during their 
winter’s rest are alive, though dormant, and 
that the reason we store them away is that 
they are too tender to withstand low temper- 
atures, or that other outside conditions are 
unfavorable for their preservation over 
winter. 
Bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants vary 
greatly in their requirements even during 
their “sleeping” period. They must have a 
certain temperature, a certain condition of 
atmospheric humidity, and in come cases a 
certain condition of the soil or other medium 
in which of necessity they must be stored. 
It is not sufficient merely to throw the sub- 
jects into a box or shed. 
A certain temperature is necessary for all 
plants to live. Tropical or sub tropical plants 
require a greater degree of heat during 
their growing and resting periods than do 
temperate plants at these respective times. 
As the temperature falls below normal dur- 
ing the resting period vitality is correspond- 
ingly reduced, and if, in the case of tender 
subjects, the temperature falls very low 
(even if it does not freeze) and remains so 
for a considerable time, death may ensue. 
Perhaps you have known of tubersof Cannas, 
Dahlias and Elephant’s Ears (Caladiums), 
tuberous Begonias, Gloxinias and a host of 
others which in spring, on removal from stor- 
age, were found to be dead, although the 
temperature did not fall to the freezing 
mark. All other conditions being right, the 
tubors died because the temperature was too 
low over a prolonged period to allow the 
plants to live. The metabolic process, that, 
briefly, being the chemical change necessary 
to the life of the plant, could not take place 
at the low temperature. 
Just as the temperature may be too low, 
so it may be too high for bulbous and tuber- 
ous-rooted plants during the winter resting 
period. A person cannot sleep or rest in a 
temperature which approaches the heat of 
his blood. This unnatural condition excites 
and produces a state of restlessness which 
cannot be overcome until the temperature is 
lowered, so it is with the Cannas and other 
bulbous and tuberous plants. A high tem- 
X3bc Slower (Brower 
perature will excite the metabolism and 
growth will commence at an unnatural time, 
with consequent injury to the subjects. From 
these remarks, it will be seen that some- 
where between the extremes of heat and 
cold there is a temperature just right for the 
welfare of our subjects when they are in a 
state of rest. 
Some bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants 
require a dry atmosphere in their storage 
place, others a normal one. Bulbs or tubers 
of a firm texture like the Gladioli and tuber- 
ous Begonia require the former, while tubers 
of a succulent nature like the Dahlia, Canna, 
Elephant’s Ear, and Gloxinia require the 
latter. Were the last mentioned subjects 
stored away in a room with a very dry atmos- 
phere, their cells would quickly lose their 
moisture, the cell walls would collapse, and 
the tubers would shrivel and become useless. 
Such is a very common occurrence, though 
easy to obviate. 
Were it possible to have the atmosphere 
just right and just sufficient moisture therein, 
it would not be necessary to store many sub- 
jects in soil, sand or other material. In all 
cases, however, where the atmosphere is very 
dry, it is the safest practice to cover the 
bulbs or tubers with some material to pre- 
vent the excessive escape of moisture from 
their cells. Generally sand will be found ex- 
cellent for the purpose, but in no case should 
the crowns of the tubers be buried, or bulbs 
be covered to a great depth. It should not be 
forgotten that it may be necessary to occa- 
sionally water Cannas, Caladiums and Dahlias 
in a dry position, even when covered with 
sand, and if the crowns are below the surface 
water will penetrate and cause the tubers to 
rot. Watering should not be done in any 
case as long as the tubers are plump and 
hard, but as soon as the first signs of shriv- 
eling occur, delay in this respect will be dan- 
gerous. — The Canadian Florist. 
Late Fall in the Flower Garden. 
By Eben E. Rexford 
(In Country Gentleman) 
We are inclined to put off the work which 
needs to be done in the garden in late 
fall until the weather becomes so disagreea- 
ble that we either let the work go undone or 
do it in such haste that it is only half done. 
As a natural consequence such plants as re- 
quire winter protection are pretty sure to 
suffer severely, and are often killed outright. 
This being the case, the importance of doing 
the work while it can be done leisurely 
enough to insure its being well done cannot 
be too strongly emphasized. It is safe to 
count on continued cold weather in the 
North after the first of November, and hence 
it is advisable to give such protection as is 
needed about that time. 
I am a firm believer in the benefit of pro- 
tection for all our plants, whether tender, 
half hardy, or entirely so, because our long 
and severe Northern winter so taxes the vital 
force of all plants in their efforts to resist its 
debilitating influence that even the hardiest 
of them suffer to an extent that greatly les- 
sens their usefulness. Therefore I have for 
many years made a practice of giving protec- 
tion to all the plants in my collection. By 
keeping the frost in after it has gained en- 
trance all injury to delicate roots is prevented 
because there is no alternate freezing and 
thawing, consequently no heaving of the soil 
after the first touch of cold weather— and as 
long as the ground remains frozen no harm 
will be done to comparatively tender plants. 
The impression seems to prevail that we give 
protection in order to keep out the cold. This 
is a mistake. The cold cannot be kept out, 
but we can prevent the warmth of the sun’s 
rays from extracting the frost, and this is 
what we aim to do in protecting our plants. 
We aim to prevent a change in their condi- 
November, 1920 
tion, because frequent changes from freezing 
to thawing are responsible for the injury 
done during winter. 
I find no other covering quite equal to 
leaves. They are Nature’s covering, and 
we cannot improve on Nature’s plans. If 
there are trees about the house rake up their 
leaves as they fall and store them in a dry 
place against the time of need. 
Before applying any covering, cut away the 
old stalks of all perennials. Then heap the 
leaves, or whatever is made use of as a sub- 
stitute for them, about each plant. When 
this is done cover with evergreen branches, 
if leaves are used, to prevent their being 
blown away. Lacking these branches, make 
use of squares of coarse-meshed wire netting 
weighting each piece at the corners, or fast- 
ening it in place with stakes. Let there be a 
depth of five or six inches of leaves to each 
plant, if the supply will admit it. 
When leaves are not obtainable coarse lit- 
ter from the barnyard will be found an effec- 
tive covering. It can either be removed in 
spring or dug into the soil about the plants 
to act as a fertilizer. If it contains consid- 
erable manure it will furnish all the elements 
of nutriment required by the plants for the 
season. 
Neatness should be a feature of the garden 
the year round. Gather up the old stalks of 
perennials and leave nothing unsightly to 
make itself conspicuous above the snow in 
winter. Take in the trellises, or whatever has 
been used as supports for plants during sum- 
mer. and be sure to stow away in a sheltered 
place the tools which have been made use of 
in the care of the garden when in its prime. 
A garden neglected after the close of the 
flowering season always gives me the impres- 
sion of a friend from whom we turn away 
when he can be no longer useful. 
If there are any plants or shrubs whose 
merits are not sufficient to warrant their reten- 
tion the fall is a good time to dispose of them. 
Dig them up, and fill the places they have 
occupied with rich soil, thus preparing in ad- 
vance for whatever is to take their places. It 
is a most excellent plan to do as much garden 
work in fall as is possible, thus preventing 
the rush which comes in the spring. 
Pansies require but slight covering. I 
simply scatter an inch or two of leaves over 
them, and then lay on evergreen branches to 
hold them in place. While the Hollyhock is a 
hardy plant, it is sure to be greatly injured if 
water stands about its base. To prevent this 
I bank up each plant with earth in such a 
manner as to turn aside the water from 
melting snow and early rains. Once it gets 
a good start in spring it will take care of it- 
self, so far as excessive moisture is con- 
cerned, but this must be guarded against in 
fall and winter if healthy plants are ex- 
pected. Where there is too much water 
the thick leaves of the plant absorb it, and 
decay sets in, which is sure to be communi- 
cated to the crown of the plant, often result- 
ing in its death and always in its injury. 
Catalogues and Price Lists. 
Lee R. Bonnewitz, Van Wert, Ohio. Circular on 
rare Peonies offering one eye divisions. 
T. H. Hughes, 78 Brownell St., New Bedford, Mass. 
A very select list with unusually complete descrip- 
tions. 
F. R. Sawyer, 352 West St., Mansfield, Mass. Price 
list of Gladiolus bulbs. A fine selection of varieties 
with good descriptions, priced per dozen and per 
hundred. 
Homer F. Chase, Wilton, N. H. 1921 trade price 
list of Gladiolus bulbs- A limited number of varieties, 
but of exceptional merit. 
C. C. Wright, Kendallville, Ind. Retail price list of 
Gladiolus bulbs. The standard varieties and novel- 
ties, also Primulinus Hybrids. 
Lee R. Bonnewitz, Van Wert, Ohio. Illustrated 
circular, “The Story of the Elwood Pleas Peony in 
my Garden.” The illustrations are especially fine. 
