The Cultivation of Vegetables 71 
into a cold frame, as stated before, or they may even be 
pricked out on to a sheltered warm border, if the soil is 
good and loamy. By the end of April they should be 
ready for planting into their permanent quarters. These 
should follow the autumn-sown ones in giving a supply 
of nice young heads. 
The seed for the main crop may be sown in the open 
garden on a border of good, rich soil, about the middle 
of April. Sow the seed thinly, in rows 1 ft. apart, where 
they may remain until they are ready for planting out. 
After the plants have appeared, the hoe should be kept 
going between the rows to keep down the weeds, and 
also to act as a soil mulch in dry weather. 
By the beginning of June the plants should be ready 
for transplanting. This can be done with the dibber, as 
advised for Cabbages. These should come on in succes- 
sion to the second crop, and should give nice heads until 
the frost comes and cuts them down. Great care should 
be exercised never to let the Cauliflowers get dry, or a 
check in this way may cause them to form small, useless 
heads early, or, as gardeners say, “button”. If the 
weather is at all dry at planting time, a broad cup should 
be left round each plant, and copious supplies of water 
given. After planting, the hoe should be frequently used 
to keep down the weeds, and also to conserve the 
moisture in dry weather. If the plants are inclined to 
be at all leggy, they should be earthed up to prevent the 
wind from twisting them off at the neck. If the leaves 
are not a sufficient protection from the sun, some of the 
larger ones may be turned over the flower, thus keeping 
it nice and white, otherwise the sun causes it to become 
