164 
Garden Work 
manure added to it; but if it is naturally poor, the soil 
should be thrown out to the depth of three spits and then 
filled up with a compost of good, turfy loam, 6 parts, leaf 
soil 1 part, well-rotted manure \ part, wood ashes \ part, 
and a 6-in. potful of bone meal to each barrowload of 
the mixture. When filling up the trench, its top should 
be left a few inches lower than the surrounding soil. 
The plants should be set out 18 in. to 2 ft. apart, 
and should either be staked at once or “trainers” placed 
along the rows and the stems tied to them to give them 
a start, when they will branch out and fill up the inter- 
vening spaces between the plants. A good mulching of 
rough manure should be given, stretching for 2 ft. on 
each side of the rows. This will keep the plants cool 
in hot weather, and will also conserve the moisture for 
the use of the plants during short, dry spells. If, how- 
ever, the weather continues dry, thorough waterings 
should be given. As the plants grow they should be 
kept tied up to the trainers. As soon as the flowers 
develop they should be cut. Never allow seed pods to 
grow — at least not until the end of the season, when 
flowers are no longer required. 
Sowing outside may be done about the middle of 
March, in broad drills 2 in. deep, planting the seeds 6 in. 
apart, on soil which has been thoroughly trenched, and 
an average supply of manure added. As soon as they 
come up they must be staked. On no account should 
this be left too long, or the plants will fall over and so 
get spoiled. 
If seed is to be saved, the varieties should be kept 
separate, and a good distance apart; otherwise the bees 
