248 
Garden Work 
at first, but as the flower buds appear it may be increased 
in strength. Staking, of course, will have to be attended 
to as growth proceeds, and if the position where the 
plants stand is exposed to wind the stakes should be tied 
to a wire stretched along the row of plants nearly as high 
as the stakes. 
As autumn advances, before there is any danger of 
injury from frost the plants must be taken into the green- 
house, allowing them plenty of room and a good supply of 
air, or mildew is sure to make its appearance. If mildew 
does attack the plants it should be stopped at once by 
sprinkling sulphur on it, or by using Ewing’s Mildew Com- 
position, &c„, and ventilating more carefully. 
Roses. — Many of these charming plants are suitable 
for growing in the greenhouse, and can be used in a 
variety of ways, for training on the roof (climbing Roses), 
or as ordinary pot plants, &c. They are generally pro- 
pagated by budding or from cuttings, a full explanation 
of which is given in the following chapter. The soil used 
for roses should consist of 6 parts of good fibrous loam, 
1 part of leaf mould, 1 part well-rotted manure, with a 
sprinkling of sand and wood ashes. They should be 
potted into 8- or 9-in. pots, which should be thoroughly 
drained, leaving 1 in. of space at the top to ensure 
thorough waterings. Potting may be done in the autumn 
and the plants plunged into a bed of ashes outside for 
the hardier sorts, and covered with a layer of manure to 
protect them from frost. For the more tender kinds, 
however, the protection of a cold frame is required. In 
spring they may be lifted, pruned, and taken into the 
greenhouse, where they will soon break. The pruning 
