Propagation 255 
knife, some of the leaves taken off, and then placed in 
water, they will root readily. Afterwards they may be 
carefully removed and potted. It must always be borne 
in mind that the base of the cuttings, in whichever way 
they are made or put in, should always rest properly on 
the bottom of the hole, if they are put in with the small 
dibber, or in the sand, or if put in a niche made with the 
spade. If the cuttings are hanging in the hole, they will 
never root satisfactorily. This must also be thought of 
with reference to cuttings put out in the open ground. 
After a frost and thaw, which lifts up the surface soil, 
and the cuttings with it, it is advisable to go over the bed 
and fix them down. Otherwise they will be left hanging 
in the holes, and will not root. Some cuttings, such as 
Pelargoniums, will root better if they are exposed to the 
sun. Others require to be shaded for some time, such as 
Calceolarias, &c. Others not only require shade but 
also need to be covered with a bell glass or hand light to 
prevent evaporation until they have taken root, such as the 
Ericas, &c. 
Sometimes it is found better to take the cuttings with a 
heel, that is, with a small portion of the wood of the older 
branch attached to them. Roses do very well in this way, 
and may be treated in the same manner advised for Goose- 
berry and Currant cuttings. If they are inserted in the 
autumn it is a good plan to mulch the ground, as it were, 
with half-decayed leaves, putting on 6 or 7 in. This will 
prevent the frost acting on the soil and lifting up the 
cuttings in the holes. 
