January, 1918 
Ob<£ Slower (Brower 
9 
mi min nnnnn niininn • 
THE ROSE 
Fnininni mi nnnnn nnnnnninni nnnnnnnnnnn nnnnnni nnnninnn in 
Tausendschon, a Climbing Rose 
of Merit and Distinction. 
[ Written expressly for 'The Flower Grower. ] 
The writer has a number of varieties 
of climbing roses and they all made a 
glorious showing during the past sea- 
son which was noted for being one of 
the best for roses in many years, but 
the variety Tausendschon, or Thou- 
sand Beauties, made the finest display 
of them all. 
This rose gets its name from the 
many shades of color that the flowers 
undergo during the period of their 
bloom, and as the same cluster em- 
braces flowers in the different stages 
of development, varying from deep 
rosy carmine through various shades 
of pink to flesh and white, the effect is 
very showy, indeed. A single truss is 
a bouquet in itself. The flowers are 
very large for a climbing rose, and are 
produced in profusion, even on young 
plants, and every year it continues to 
improve. It is easily the best of the 
multiflora roses, and as the growth is 
not so rampant as many varieties of 
this class, it can easily be kept within 
bounds; in fact, it makes an ideal pil- 
lar rose. It is resistant to mildew and 
other fungous diseases which so often 
attack climbing roses, and excepting 
only the rose chafer, the reprehensible 
bug that delights to infest all light 
colored roses in June, I have not 
known of its being bothered at all by 
insect pests. 
Not by any means the least impor- 
tant of the many recommendations for 
Tausendschon is the fact that it is very 
hardy, needing no winter protection 
whatever, and the absence of thorns or 
prickers add to the pleasure of growing 
it. 
I think if I were limited to but one 
climbing rose, that variety, if the selec- 
tion were left to me, would be Tausend- 
schon ' H. G. Reading. 
To Combat Rose Diseases. 
Rose gardeners should take advan- 
tage of the fall season, say specialists 
of the United States Department of 
Agriculture, to make their plants as 
free as possible from disease by meth- 
ods that cannot well be followed dur- 
ing the growing season. Whatever the 
disease, the affected portion of the 
plants should be cut out in the fall and 
the shortened bushes sprayed. It is 
assumed, however, that spraying will 
not have been delayed until fall, but 
will have been carried on as a control 
measure at frequent intervals since 
spring. The diseased wood removed 
in the fall, together with the old leaves 
and debris under bushes, should be 
burned. In case of attacks by rusts, 
canker and leaf spots, the diseased 
wood or leaves should be removed and 
burned even during the growing sea- 
son. 
For powdery mildew, the control 
sprayings for the summer spores should 
be with lime-sulphur or potassium sul- 
phid. After cutting back in the fall, 
the plants should be sprayed with lime- 
sulphur or strong Bordeaux mixture. 
The control sprayings for rusts should 
be ammoniacal copper carbonate. The 
fall spraying should be with a strong 
Bordeaux mixture. For leaf-spot, leaf- 
blight and anthracnose, the control 
sprays may be either Bordeaux mixture 
or ammoniacal copper carbonate, and 
the fall spraying should be with the 
former. 
Leaf blotch, also known as black- 
spot, is a very injurious disease. The 
first symptoms are the appearance of 
irregularly shaped blackish spots on 
the upper surface of nearly full-grown 
leaves. In this stage the trouble may 
be controlled by several sprayings with 
ammoniacal copper carbonate or Bor- 
deaux mixture, but if these precau- 
tions are not taken another stage of 
the fungus develops in the same spots. 
The fungus in this later stage lives 
over the winter on fallen leaves and 
sets up a new infection in the spring 
which can only be prevented by raking 
up and burning the fallen leaves and 
spraying the dormant bushes with 
strong Bordeaux mixture. 
The Hardy Yellow Rose. 
In connection with the hardy yellow 
Roses mentioned by A. E. Thatcher in 
The Garden Magazine for April and R. 
S. Sturtevant in the July issue, it may 
be of interest that the Copper Austrian 
was wintered successfully here, for sev- 
eral years, where the temperature will 
be as low as 40 degrees below zero 
every winter, at some time. It was 
not killed back at all until last winter, 
when there was severe frost and no 
snow until Christmas. The Scotch Yel- 
low was not injured in the least. They 
have no protection of any kind, being 
on the open prairie, but ordinarily the 
snow covers them from four to eight 
feet deep. The Wichuraiana Hybrid , 
Klondyk, has survived our winter as 
has the Soliel d’Or ("earthed up” 12 
inches or so.) The Persian Yellow and 
Harisons are hardy here. This year I 
am trying Yellow Austrian, single and 
double; Gottfried Keller, an Austrian 
Hybrid; and Daniel Lusneur, the only 
yellow Rugosa I have met, although 
Dolly Varden is described as apricot, 
and sometimes as pink. There is no 
lack of hardy Roses of other shades, but 
yellow is rare here. — A. W. Mackay, 
Canada. 
Cutting Gladiolus Bloom. 
The comments on this subject which 
appeared in the November issue to- 
gether with photograph interested me 
considerably as I have experimented 
somewhat along this line in the past. 
Gladiolus bloom was cut with 2, 4 and 
6 leaves left to mature the bulb. 
Of four different lots of Gladiolus 
America the first lot was cut with no 
foliage left on the plant with the ex- 
ception of the two bottom leaves, the 
second lot with four leaves, and the 
third with six. On the fourth lot no 
flowers were cut, as no buds were al- 
lowed to form. 
When the bulbs were dug, those with 
two leaves were very poor, in no case 
was the new bulb larger than the old 
one and in most instances the plant 
had died before maturing. There were 
very few bulblets. 
Those with four leaves were very 
good and seemed well ripened and of 
X 
normal size, with a good yield of bulb- 
lets. 
Those with six leaves perhaps aver- 
aged a little higher quality, and slightly 
larger but not a great deal. 
The fourth lot were in no way better 
than the third. 
This proved to my satisfaction that 
no less than four leaves should be left 
on the plant for best results. How- 
ever, in most cases the flower stem 
should be plenty long enough, if cut to 
leave five or six leaves. 
As the article invited comment I 
have taken the liberty of explaining 
my way of cutting as it allows two or 
three more inches of flower stem with- 
out taking an extra leaf. 
Insert the knife with edge pointing 
down at “ 1 ” following down the leaf 
to “ 2,” turn the edge against the flower 
stem and cut same not quite through. 
The stem may be bent sharply to- 
wards the cut and will snap off and 
pull out of the leaf socket, making a 
neatly finished job and allowing the 
greatest possible length of stem. 
H. E. Meader. 
