February, 1918 
Z3I)£ Slower (Brower 
21 
| WAYSIDE 
DOUBLE GLADIOLI. 
Noting in a flower magazine recently 
a request for information as to Gladi- 
oli having double blooms, or a tendency 
to develop double flowers, perhaps the 
readers of The Flower Grower will 
be interested in two instances coming 
under my observation : 
At one time I bought a bulb of Sul- 
phur King which bloomed and multi- 
plied. On planting the second year 
it blossomed again and produced a 
bloom tending toward dualness. The 
first blooms to open were double and 
so on up for two-thirds of the length 
of the flower stalk. If one could im- 
agine a perfectly formed Gladiolus, 
but like a narcissus, with a collar at the 
throat like the tube of a narcissus, an 
inch in height, which showed itself 
prominently, one could get an idea of 
what this bloom was like. I saved the 
bulb and replanted it in 1917, but this 
year it did not bloom, but owing to 
improper marking I do not know which 
that bulb is, among those stored away 
for 1918 planting. 
Another bulb was of a variety of 
which I do not know the name, as it 
was not a named sort. It was in color 
a vivid pink, on the red cast. This 
produced a stalk in 1917, only one blos- 
som of which came double. This 
flower consisted of ten petals, divided 
into two rows, five in the bottom row, 
five in the top row. The bottom row 
produced three petals at the top and 
two at the bottom and the other one 
was arranged two at the top, three at 
the bottom. Despite the curious growth 
of this double flower, both flowers were 
of great beauty and perfection of form. 
The bloom was a large one. 
If either of these bulbs should throw 
double blooms in 1918, I shall try to 
make a further report on them. 
Estelle M. Gilbert. 
FOR BETTER CATALOGUE DESCRIPTION — 
SCHWABEN AND LILY LEHMANN. 
Experience is the one thing we are 
forced to rely on and all the growers 
combine, it seems to me, in forcing us 
back upon our own efforts and obser- 
vations. Here is a fine new variety — 
grand illustration and description. 
But the question still is and remains : 
Is this what I really want ? The only 
real answer is : Try it and see. Nearly 
all catalog listings omit the things we 
simply ought to know to tell what a 
variety really is. They tell only the 
color, sometimes the height, or one 
other point. But we must know much 
more — the color, of course ; the size of 
the flower also and its shape ; the 
number open at one time on the spike ; 
the height of the spike ; its sturdiness 
or ability to stand erect in the hot sun 
during its tender stage ; the earliness 
or lateness of bloom, etc., etc. Some 
day our catalogs will note most of these 
essential points. The orthodox way at 
present to my mind is not at all suffi- 
RAMBLINGS 
cient. Now, when I get a new variety, 
I am largely in the dark whether it 
will prove what I want or not. 
Once in a while a happy surprise re- 
sults. The new acquisition goes far 
beyond expectation. When I planted 
my first Schwaben I did not realize 
what was in store for me. Up they 
came, fine and strong, and they grew 
stronger all the time. The bloom was 
exquisite, just what I wanted in creamy 
yellow. When I harvested the corms 
they were simply immense. And the 
second year these corms brought spikes 
fully 5 feet high, nearly all two spikes 
to the corm ; the cormels were a riot 
of sturdy foliage, and many bloomed. 
Many a visitor I took out to see those 
Schwabens, for it was a sight good for 
the eyes. Their thrifty, stalwart growth 
was like a tonic to any dispirited mind. 
I had Lily Lehmann alongside of Schwa- 
ben the first year, but the 100 Lilies 
grew sickly, with only occasional 
blooms, and these inferior. Yet, when 
I secured Lily Lehmann I rather thought 
it would prove an excellent variety 
with me. So I am skeptical till I try 
for myself, and I let my experience 
serve as my ultimate guide. Then I 
find that I frequently differ from the 
old established Gladiolus doctrine. 
R. C. H. Lenski. 
REMOVING TOPS FROM GLADIOLUS 
CORMS AFTER DIGGING. 
To the Editor 
I noticed an item in a recent issue of 
your paper to the effect that it is better 
to cut off the tops immediately when 
the corms are dug, and as I had a 
theory of my own to the contrary, a 
year ago I tried both plans in the fall 
of 1916 and am convinced that the 
bulbs on which I allowed the tops to 
remain, cured firmer and plumper, and 
when planted last spring they grew far 
more vigorously and rapidly than those 
from which the tops were cut immedi- 
ately on digging. My theory is that 
the substance in the top goes back to 
the root after it is dug and, therefore, 
should not be cut off until dry. Should 
like to hear from others on the subject. 
John A. Gardner. 
Note by the Editor— 
Actual experience is better than 
theory and it seems that Mr. Gardner 
has proved to his own satisfaction that 
the top should be left on until the 
corms are cured. We cannot believe 
that this is right although we have 
seen directions given both ways. Any- 
way it is not practicable to leave the top 
on if the grower has any considerable 
quantity. Besides, it is altogether 
against the theory of capillarity to 
leave the tops on. Let us hear from 
those who have opinions on this mat- 
ter, or still better from those who have 
tried it or who have noted the effect of 
both methods during years of experi- 
ence. 
FORCING GLADIOLI. 
Without doubt the curing of the 
bulbs after digging has much to do 
with successful forcing. The writer 
has forced Gladioli in a greenhouse 
and has observed that a sound plump 
well-cured bulb is pretty sure to make 
a spike of bloom under normal green- 
house conditions. Not having had ex- 
perience in window forcing, it is with 
regret that no information can be sug- 
gested along this line. 
Having forcing in view no doubt the 
conditions surrounding the storage of 
bulb stock before planting has much 
to do with later results. This duly 
considered, together with the variety 
and its vigor will, in a great degree, 
determine the final success of the un- 
dertaking. 
With human beings it has been said 
that to begin right "we should choose 
our grandparents.” It may be well to 
go equally far back with Gladioli, in 
other words, it may be possible to 
breed a line of Gladioli that shall pos- 
sess the characteristics for successful 
forcing. 
Again referring to the curing of 
Gladiolus bulbs: We know that two 
out of the three very essential elements 
in growing the Gladiolus are fresh air 
and sunshine. Then let us use these 
freely in the curing of the bulbs, 
especially if forcing is to be carried on. 
Three or four weeks after the plant 
has budded or bloomed, and same has 
been removed, the bulb should be well 
matured and ready to be harvested. 
If it is then lifted and allowed to lie on 
the ground before removing the top, 
for a few days, the bulb has well com- 
menced its curing process, especially if 
the period has been one of sunshine. 
After this, the top may be removed 
and bulb stock placed in a cold dry airy 
place. 
As the time draws near for inside 
planting ; and by the way, a space of 
at least three months’ time should in- 
tervene between digging and planting, 
it will be advantageous to gradually 
bring the bulbs near artificial heat. 
It is the opinion of the writer that 
best results in forcing have been ob- 
tained from varieties which do not sub- 
divide too freely, sending strength more 
to the bloom than to producing ad- 
ditional bulbs, although exceptions to 
this have been noted, as for instance 
the variety Mrs. Watt which produces 
a very plump bulb and forces so suc- 
cessfully that the sub-division usually 
blooms. No doubt other varieties might 
be mentioned with this characteristic. 
Gladiolus bulbs for forcing should be 
at least 1| inch stock. 
Homer F. Chase. 
SIZE OF GLADIOLUS CORMS. 
How large does a Gladiolus corm get 
to be? In The Modern Gladiolus 
Grower for June, 1917, page 93, Mr. 
Montague Chamberlain reports a corm 
of Easter Bells measuring 9§ inches in 
circumference. I have a corm of Golden 
Measure measuring 11§ inches in cir- 
cumference and weighing 5| ounces. 
Next ! C. C. Miller. 
