50 
mit of the circulation of air through 
them. 
The plants at this writing (March 
20th) are about a foot high and have 
had their first layer of fertilizer in the 
ditches as well as the top dressing ap- 
plied in January. I expect to make the 
first cuttings of blooms about the first 
to tenth of May with the bulk of the 
cutting coming about Decoration Day. 
Of course there will be flowers before 
the above mentioned date but by com- 
mercial cutting I mean five hundred 
flowers or more per day. 
This is the natural time for the flow- 
ers that come from bulbs raised in this 
country and I am unable to see why 
under intensive cultivation as used in 
forcing these bulbs will not do better 
than bulbs whose natural blooming 
time is later. I note discussion regard- 
ing bulbs deteriorating with age and 
would say, that in my experience that 
the older the corm the more prone to 
suffer from disease. Undoubtedly they 
do lose in vitality in this country after 
the fourth year, becoming flatter and 
thinner and my best flowers are raised 
from the third year bulbs. 
I also find that about twenty per 
cent of the bulblets will bloom market- 
able flowers the first year from most 
of the commoner varieties. The bulbs 
from bulblets grade about twenty per 
cent first size, thirty per cent second, 
and the balance third and fourth sizes. 
Formerly I grew about one hundred 
varieties but last year put into the 
mixed bulbs all but sixteen varieties 
which I shall grow, hybridizing from 
them and adding as the newer ones 
find favor. I have a number of seed- 
lings that date back ten years and over 
and am adding to the collection each 
year. This is the most interesting 
work connected with the growing of 
the Gladiolus as the crossing and record 
keeping is very simple and can be done 
by any amateur in his own garden and 
results may be had equal to any if care 
in the choice of varieties for the parents 
are used. The amateur is more apt to 
be careful and make “ pets ” of the 
flowers than the professional and 
that all adds to the results. There 
is a satisfaction in growing something 
new and original in one’s own garden. I 
am unable to see the advantage of flow- 
ers five to eight feet in height as that 
condition generally necessitates stak- 
ing and to date I have never had to 
use stakes either in the field or home 
garden. I might also add that a chart 
of the planting is always made with 
the date of planting, the origin of the 
stock, the age of the bulbs and any 
other data that might be of use. Later 
the number of flowers cut is added to 
the record of the bed. 
In following up the bulbs that I have 
sold I find that the Gladiolus is surely 
resistant to neglect, will grow and 
flower in most any kind of soil, from 
the mountains to the sea, and in all is 
about the easiest to grow and the most 
satisfactory flower in the garden. It is 
possible out here to have flowers from 
Gladioli nearly every month of the 
year, one of the growers here cutting 
over ten thousand for the Christmas 
holiday trade. In the home garden the 
Slower (Brower 
bulbs consist mostly of seedlings but in 
the field the varieties are as follows : 
America, Mrs. Francis King, Augusta, 
Peace, Sulphur Queen, Golden King, 
Halley, War, Mrs. Frank Pendleton, 
Mrs. Watt, Ida Van, Schwaben, Rouge 
Torch and Liebesfeuer. These have all 
been tested over several years growth 
and newer varieties are added and 
tested each year. There are many 
others in the mixed varieties including 
the ones above but the ones named are 
the most satisfactory to me and to the 
trade. 
There is no doubt now that American 
grown bulbs and plants must be grown 
to supply the home market and I can 
only urge the amateur to insist on 
American grown bulbs and plants as 
there can be no question of their su- 
periority over the imported stock. 
Each year I learn more and more of 
the habits, needs of the plants and the 
general handling of the crop both in 
the garden and in the field and the work 
becomes more interesting. To the ama- 
teur who is growing Gladioli for the 
first time I would say, buy named va- 
rieties, not too many kinds at first, of 
a reputable grower, cultivate the soil 
well and deep, give plenty of water and 
sunshine, and you will be well repaid 
for your money and work expended. 
Water Lilies. 
A pond with Water Lilies growing in it is 
always a pleasing feature on the grounds, 
whether they be those of a private residence 
or a commercial establishment. Even if the 
nurseryman has not the facilities for grow- 
ing them, it is always worth while to know 
something about them. 
The culture of Water Lilies and other 
aquatics is very simple and very often an 
unsightly depression can be converted into 
a beauty spot at little cost and labor. 
The best soil for growing all aquatics is 
the rotted vegetable matter from ponds or 
swamps mixed with one-third well rotted 
manure, and the best substitute for same is 
good heavy loam enriched with one-third 
well-decayed cow manure. All Nymphaeas 
and other flowering aquatics should be 
planted so that they will be exposed to full 
sunlight. 
In constructing artificial ponds where the 
soil is not sufficiently retentive to hold water 
a good method is to smooth and pound 
firmly the bottom and sides of the excava- 
tion, then cover the whole with a layer of 
six inches of puddled clay, pounding it well 
with wooden mauls so as to bring it into 
one solid mass. Cover the sides with rough 
stones or put on a thin layer of concrete. 
This will prevent the sides from washing. 
A total depth of two feet is sufficient, one 
foot for soil and one for water, with an over- 
throw so constructed that the pond can be 
entirely drained or the water held at any 
level desired. 
Depth and supply of water. This may vary 
from a few inches to four feet, but all of the 
hardy Nymphaeas and Nelumbiums will give 
better results if covered by 12 inches of 
water during the summer months. As all 
Water Lilies, and more especially the tender 
varieties, prefer still, warm water, do not 
allow the continuous flow of the fountain in 
the smaller pool or other continuous inflow 
of water in connection with the larger pond. 
When such are fed with a large inflow of 
cold water, Lilies will not be a success. For 
artificial ponds and tanks it is best only to 
give enough fresh water to replace what is 
May, 1918 
lost by evaporation, etc., and the best method 
of doing so is to give the ponds a good 
syringing from a hose late in the afternoon 
or early in the evening. The syringing be- 
sides giving the necessary amount of fresh 
water, will be very beneficial to the plants, 
as it will keep in check green and black fly 
and keep the leaves free from dust. 
The best results will be obtained when 
planted in the natural mud bed, but if the 
water is too deep, construct boxes four feet 
or more square and eighteen inches deep, 
and place these in the pond below the sur- 
face of the water. In artificial ponds cement 
basins cover the entire bottom with 10 inches 
of soil, top-dressed with two inches of sand 
or gravel. If this cannot be done use boxes 
or half-barrels filled with aquatic soil. 
In planting Nymphaeas, all that is neces- 
sary is to push the rhizomes into the soft 
mud, so that they will be merely covered, 
and it is a good precaution to place a 
stone on them until rooted, to keep them in 
place. When planting they should be cov- 
ered only with from two to three inches of 
water until they have made their first float- 
ing leaf ; then gradually increase the water 
as the plants grow. 
Winter and Future Treatment. Hardy 
Nymphaeas and Nelumbiums need no care 
during the winter, provided the water is of 
sufficient depth so that it will not freeze to 
the crown of the plants. In cement tanks 
drain off all the water and fill in with leaves 
or cover with boards and leaves or litter. 
The second spring after planting it will be 
advisable to transplant all such plants as 
have made a strong growth. This should 
be done by washing away most of the soil 
from the roots, removing all side growths 
and replanting the strong roots into fresh 
soil as before. The side growths, if planted 
two or three together, will also make flow- 
ering plants the same season. Lilies which 
are grown in beds of soil or in natural ponds 
will be much benefited by an application in 
spring of dried blood manure, broadcasted 
on the surface of the water at the rate of 
one pound to every ten square feet of sur- 
face. 
Nelubiums. The treatment is the same 
as recommended for hardy Nymphaeas, ex- 
cepting that they do best when planted in 
mud or soil that is at least two feet deep and 
covered only with six inches of water. When 
planted with other aquatics there should be 
partitions of brick or boards, so as to confine 
the tubers, otherwise they will soon take 
possession of the entire pond. In planting 
place the tubers horizontally in the mud, so 
that the point will be merely covered. They 
are gross feeders, and should have dried 
blood manure applied each spring, as sug- 
gested abo ve.— National Nurseryman. 
We learn of further losses from freez- 
ing of Gladiolus corms during the past 
season. Some of these losses were 
stock frozen in storage and still others 
are losses from freezing of stock in the 
field before getting it into storage. 
Winter shut in rather suddenly last fall 
and very low temperatures were ex- 
perienced early in the season. Damage 
and loss while in storage resulted from 
extremely low temperature for long 
continued periods during the winter. 
It is a little out of season to suggest 
that a thermometer should be placed 
in the bulb storage room and inspected 
during cold weather. Be sure the ther- 
mometer is reasonably accurate and 
don’t take chances on two or three de- 
grees. A lighted lamp or lantern is 
often sufficient to keep the tempera- 
ture from dropping to a dangerous 
point, 
