102 
from the ground and allow them 
to dry in the sun for an hour or 
two, then cut off the old stalks, leaving 
three or four inches above the clump. 
When digging Dahlia tubers, it is of 
the utmost importance not to mutilate 
the neck which connects the tuber to 
the stalk, as to break this connection 
renders the tuber valueless. If the 
air in the storage room is dry, pack the 
clumps in boxes and cover with sand 
to keep them from drying out. In a 
damp cellar the tubers might mould 
or decay if placed directly on the floor; 
but would probably keep quite well if 
stored on hanging shelves. Any cellar 
with the conditions requisite for keep- 
ing potatoes would prove ideal for the 
winter storage of Dahlia tubers. Keep 
in mind the fact, that as the sprouts 
usually appear at the base of the stem, 
it is essential to keep that portion of 
the clump in perfect condition. If the 
dormant sprouts or eyes are allowed 
to freeze or become mouldy, the clump 
will fail to produce plants even though 
the individual tubers seem in good con- 
dition. To assure success do not divide 
Dahlia clumps until they have thrown 
out sprouts in the spring. 
The method suggested for wintering 
Dahlias may be used also for the stor- 
age of Canna roots, though as Cannas 
are more likely to dry out or rot, these 
roots require additional care and at- 
tention. Canna roots should be dug 
as soon as the foliage is nipped by 
frost. Allow whatever soil that ad- 
heres to remain ; cut off the foliage and 
store the roots in boxes or on shelves. 
During the winter examine the roots 
occasionally. If they appear to be dry- 
ing out moisten them slightly ; if they 
show any signs of decay, remove them 
to a place that is more dry. In the 
South, when the climate is mild, Can- 
nas may be placed in piles on boards, 
covered with earth and left out of 
doors for the winter. 
The bulbs of Caladiums (Elephant’s 
Ears) another class of ornamental 
foliage plants, should be lifted and 
dried off in October and stored in dry 
sand in a warm, dry place. In the 
spring, if they are planted out in 
masses, in a shady, moist situation the 
showy, luxuriant foliage will produce 
an effect that is rich and tropical. 
If one has only a few Caladiums or 
Cannas to winter, they may be planted 
in pots, placed in a warm room and 
watered sparingly to prevent the dry- 
ing out of the roots. 
The large flowered strains of tuber- 
ous rooted Begonias are so exception- 
ally beautiful and so quickly grown, 
that it is rather surprising that they 
are not better known. As most of 
these bulbs were grown for the trade 
by Belgian florists, the supply from 
that source is small and the bulbs in 
this country are doubly worthy of the 
care necessary for their preservation. 
The method of wintering them, though 
different from those previously given, 
is not difficult. If the Begonias are 
bedded out, the tubers should be lifted 
in the autumn, dried off, packed in 
dry sand or sawdust (or wrapped sep- 
arately in paper) and stored in a frost- 
proof place. If the Begonias are in 
Ol)£ .flower (Brower 
pots the tubers may be removed and 
treated as above or they may be left 
in the pots. In the latter case with- 
hold water until the soil in the pots is 
thoroughly dry. When the tops of the 
plants dry off, fill the pots to the brim 
with a layer of coarse, sharp, dry sand 
and set away in a place where the tem- 
perature will not fall below 50 
To start the growth of the tuberous 
roots in the spring, simply remove the 
layer of sand from the top of the pot, 
and begin watering. Keep in a dark, 
warm place until there is root growth, 
then bring to light and warmth. 
The highly perfumed tuberose which 
was the pride and delight of our grand- 
mothers, seems to have lost favor. 
One rarely finds this beautiful, chaste 
flower in the modern garden. Perhaps 
the close association of this heavy- 
scented, waxy flower with funerals, 
may account, in part, for its wane in 
popularity, but a few of these late 
blooming plants for cutting and to 
beautify and perfume the garden in 
the fall when there is a dearth of flow- 
ers will be found a decided acquisition. 
The bulbs of the tuberose should be 
lifted as soon as cold weather ap- 
proaches, thoroughly dried, packed in 
boxes between layers of cotton and 
placed in a moderately warm, dry 
closet. In the spring divide the clumps 
and set out about five inches deep in a 
sandy, sunny situation. A mulch of 
stable litter applied during the hot, 
dry weather will materially increase 
the production of flowers. Bulbs that 
are set out before the ground is warm 
in the spring or that are left out too 
late in autumn, or that were stored in 
a cold, moist place, may fail to bloom 
because these adverse conditions have 
impaired the vitality of the tender 
flower germs. 
The pretty summer blooming Oxalis, 
so frequently and effectively employed 
as an edging plant, has endeared itself 
to many flower-lovers. In the south 
the bulbous Oxalis is hardy and may 
be left in the ground, but in the north 
after the plants have ceased to bloom 
and have completed their growth, the 
bulbs should be dried off and stored in 
a cool, dry place. The clumps of such 
species as Oxalis hirta rosea should not 
be divided when lifted as the large 
central tuber continues to contribute 
nourishment to the small bulbs clus- 
tered about it until dry. When resetting 
the small bulbs, plant them separately 
in rich soil along the edge of a bed or 
border and a low unbroken edging 
will result. Oxalis Boweii and Oxalis 
lasianda are also effective as edging 
plants. A number of these small but 
free-blooming bulbs planted three or 
four inches apart, quickly produce a 
dense border of beautiful foliage dotted 
profusely with clusters of dainty flow- 
ers which, on their long, slender stems, 
seem to nod and say as one passes by : 
“ Do you see this pretty flower 
Looking gay 
By the way ? 
Though it shines in no fair bower 
Like a rav 
Day by day 
It just keeps on blooming there 
And with perfume fills the air 
And the passers-by all love it. 
So they say.” 
—Irma B. Mathews. 
October, 1918 
Note by the Editor— 
We cannot agree with Mrs. Hammond’s 
suggestion to leave tops on Gladioli for sev- 
eral hours after digging. There is no good 
reason for leaving the tops on Gladioli after 
digging. It is much more convenient to 
cut them off as fast as they are pulled out 
of the ground and this is standard practice 
among the commercial growers. 
Newport Hort. Society Show. 
MUSIC HALL, AUG. 27, 1918. 
In keeping with the general trend of 
economy the Society did not plan as 
extensive a fall show as usual. Many 
estates in this section have been very 
short of help so that the flowers could 
not be given the usual care and they 
have also patriotically given their time 
to the growing of vegetables instead. 
Then at the time of the show many 
were too busy to spare the necessary 
time to prepare and arrange the ex- 
hibits. However, the smallness of the 
show was made up by the enthusiasm 
of those exhibiting and the quality of 
the flowers and vegetables shown. 
The childrens’ garden exhibits were 
the center of attraction during the 
afternoon and there were a happy 
crowd of youngsters in the late after- 
noon when Secretary Webber distrib- 
uted over $100.00 among them for the 
awards made earlier in the day. 
On the regular schedule, Mrs. T. O. 
Richardson, Jas. Robertson, gardener, 
was awarded first for the best speci- 
men Kentia in a tub, and first for a 
specimen Palm. 
On Gladioli, Mrs. C. B. Judge, M. 
Noonan, gardener, was given first for 
10 spikes of Red, showing Mrs. Francis 
King. 
For 10 spikes of White, C. W. Brown 
& Son was awarded first, showing 
Europa. Class of 10 spikes of Pink was 
won by C. W. Brown & Son, showing 
Wm. Falconer. The above firm also 
took first for 10 Yellow with their much 
advertised Mongolian. The class of 
10 spikes any other color was won by 
Fred P. Webber with Flerada. Mr. 
Webber also won the class for 25 Prim- 
ulinus Hybrids. The silver medal for 
Commercial collection was won by C. 
W. Brown & Son. 
Miss Fannie Foster was given a 
Bronze Medal for a collection of seed- 
lings and was given a Certificate of 
Merit for Seedling No. 1. 
C. W. Brown & Son also showed 
several vases of their seedlings and 
were given a First Class Certificate of 
Merit on their new seedling to be 
named Goldfinch. 
Mrs. T. O. Richardson was given 1st 
on display of Dahlias. 
A beautiful vase of Sulphurea shown 
by Fred P. Webber was given a “spe- 
cial” and a display of Collarette Dah- 
lias by the same exhibitor also received 
a “special.” 
A beautiful vase of Gardenias shown 
by Hon. R. S. Breckman, Esq., J. O. 
Urquhart, gardener, received first in 
that class. 
In fruit and vegetables the ladies 
demonstrated that they were up to the 
times by winning several prizes from 
the more experienced gardeners. 
C. W. Brown. 
