November, 1918 
Ol)e Slower (Brower 
| MRS. AUSTIN’S TALKS 
= [Written expressly for The Flower Groiuer. ] 
Seedlings and Curing 
Gladiolus Bulbs. 
T he pet seedlings 
are now snug and safe 
in winter storage but 
where we can easily 
have a peep at them, read 
the labels and again be 
with them as memory 
brings afresh the vision of 
their beauty. 
The harvesting has been as enjoy- 
able and fully as interesting as the 
blooming season, for long ago we 
learned that while a seedling may be 
very beautiful it is almost worthless if 
the bulb is poor and not productive of 
bulblets, so at harvest time we eagerly 
scan the bulbs for proof of value. 
When a promising new variety ap- 
pears we get out our field book and 
jot down its perfections but we cannot 
pronounce judgment until we have seen 
the bulb. 
A year ago we were favored by the 
presence of a seedling novelty who 
brightened our season with her sweet 
face, and then passed away while in stor- 
age, leaving only one tiny bulblet. We 
nursed the bulblet to a bulb the size of a 
large hickory-nut, but there are no bulb- 
lets, and if it proves to be a non-pro- 
ducer shall we discard it as worthless, or 
save the seed from its blooms and grow 
hundreds and perhaps thousands in the 
effort to find that face again ? Growing 
seedlings is interesting, and I think the 
game would pay for the trouble. Years 
ago a Gladiolus of almost perfect form, 
and beautiful color, appeared among 
our seedlings. Season after season we 
grew it carefully hoping for increase 
of bulblets but there were very few. 
We had, however, taken the precau- 
tion to save and grow seed, and after 
Bulbs on trays curing in the sun at Mrs. Austin's 
Elm Hill Farm. 
repeated efforts were rewarded with a 
variety of the same rich color, nearly 
as good form, and a good producer of 
bulblets — our Cardisun. 
One cannot be too careful in storing 
bulbs and bulblets, for well cured bulbs 
are less susceptible to disease, and 
bulblets will grow quicker and more 
uniformly if stored properly. It is sur- 
prising how quickly bulbs 
will cure if spread in the 
open air on sunny days. If 
spread thickly they should 
be stirred occasionally. The 
grower of half an acre, or 
half a hundred acres would 
do well to keep in mind the 
necessity of early curing of 
his stock. It is a saving of 
time and bulbs to have 
each day’s harvest made 
ready for rapid curing and often by 
the time the bulbs are out of the 
ground, the ones first dug are ready 
for rooting. 
To do this the bulbs should be freed 
from soil as much as possible by being 
forked or tossed lightly - which will 
not only loosen the soil but also shake 
off the bulblets — then spread in trays, 
being careful to not heap them and 
thus cut off the airspace when stacked. 
If weather is mild and sunny they may 
be placed in the open, but if there is 
danger of freezing they should be 
stacked in a cellar or storage building 
with windows open to allow good circu- 
lation of air. A little heat will also 
help. 
If, on account of weather conditions, 
it was necessary to get the bulbs with 
the soil into storage quickly, the first 
inside work should be to get them in 
shape, as described above, or some 
better way, for curing before beginning 
the rooting. The customer who wants 
his stock shipped him before severe 
weather sets in, does not want green 
bulbs that freeze easily. 
The bulblets which were shaken off 
may have the soil sifted from them 
or will keep in very good condition if 
some soil, preferably sandy, is left with 
them. 
Mrs. A. H. Austin. 
Division of Prize Money 
at Flower Shows. 
Last month we had something to 
say about what the Minnesota State 
Fair management does in the way of 
division of prize moneys, and in re- 
sponse to a letter of inquiry, Professor 
LeRoy Cady of the University of Min- 
nesota, writes as follows: 
“ In reply to your question as to the 
division of premium money at the 
Minnesota State Fair, will say that 
this scheme has been followed in the 
Horticultural Department and I think 
quite generally in other departments. 
We have found in some ways that this 
is preferable to the pro rata scheme 
and often is more satisfactory. Two 
premiums are not enough to offer 
where anywhere from a half dozen to 
a dozen people are competing. Sooner 
or later the more timid drop out and 
your exhibit dwindles down. This, of 
course, is one advantage of the pro 
rata system, as every one with a cred- 
111 
itable exhibit gets a portion of the 
premium. Personally, I am inclined 
to favor, in almost all cases, at least 
four premiums and in classes where 
there are apt to be a large number 
competing I would run these out still 
further. We have a number of county 
fairs in the state in which some thirty 
premiums are offered on potatoes. The 
first three are large and the others 
usually fifty cents or a dollar. I notice 
that these classes are usually pretty 
well filled.” 
Dormant Method of 
Wintering Geraniums. 
By Bertha Berbert Hammond. 
[Written expressly for The Flower Grower, j 
To winter a large number of Gera- 
niums in the usual way, requires more 
window space than the average home 
can afford to yield without the rooms 
being materially darkened and the 
house being turned into a mere storage 
place for the plants. Still these Ge- 
raniums which have beautified the sur- 
roundings and filled hearts with joy 
and gladness by their constant and 
lavish display of leaf and bloom de- 
serve a kinder fate than to be left out 
to freeze and die. Therefore, the dor- 
mant method may prove apropos not 
only to those who desire to keep over 
a large number of Geraniums but also 
to those who dislike to see the plants 
frost killed. 
For three years the writer has used 
with success the following method of 
wintering Geraniums: Before they are 
injured by frost take up the sturdiest, 
well-rooted plants, leaving whatever 
soil happens to adhere to the roots. 
To exclude light and help keep the 
plants in a dormant state wrap bundles 
of plants in several thicknesses of 
newspaper and hang roots up in a 
dark, dry but frost-proof cellar and 
leave them alone until spring. To 
avoid any possible ill effects from the 
transfer from out of doors to the root 
cellar, it is advisable to keep the plants 
in a shed or sheltered porch for a day 
or two before hanging them in their 
permanent winter quarters. 
About the first week in May, unpack 
the plants, place the roots in a tub of 
water for five or six days and they will 
begin to show signs of life. Prune 
quite severely, and set the plants out 
in a somewhat sandy, sunny bed and 
in about six weeks’ time they will be 
strong, healthy and in prime condition 
to develop buds for a season of con- 
tinuous and rich display of bloom. 
Some of the timid and weak-kneed 
Gladiolus growers are inclined to re- 
duce their stocks for 1919 planting. 
This is an opportunity for growers 
with foresight and courage to acquire 
meritorious varieties at prices below 
their actual value. In our humble 
opinion it is a poor time to get fright- 
ened over the Gladiolus business. 
Nothing but a brilliant future is in 
prospect. 
