2 
ALBANY NURSERIES 
Apple trees should be planted from 25 to 30 feet apart in regular orchard form, and 
the best tree to plant is universally conceded to be a one-year top on a three-year root. 
When planted this tree should be headed back to whatever height you wish to form the 
head of your tree. This varies under different conditions, ranging from 18 to 30 inches. 
If you are located where you have unusually heavy snowfall during the Winter, which 
would endanger the lower branches resulting from the snow settling, the trees are 
headed higher. 
In preparing your land for planting keep in mind that this will be the last thorough 
plowing possible and it is well to use a sub-soiler in order to loosen up the earth as deep 
as possible. Work your soil as thoroughly as you would were you going to sow a crop 
of grain. In some instances blasting the holes is desirable and beneficial. If, however, 
your sub-soil is porous it is generally considered unnecessary. 
Cultivation after planting is most important. Different types of soil require differ- 
ent treatment, but the object in view is to keep the soil well pulverized and maintain a 
dust mulch in order to retain the moisture. 
In planting trees some prefer the square method, while others prefer the hexag- 
onal system which permits planting 15 per cent more trees to the acre. By the hexag- 
onal system the trees are set the same distance apart from each other in every direction. 
Cultivation and spraying is not as conveniently done when the trees are planted under 
this method as when planted by the square method, but the additional yield per acre will 
compensate for this inconvenience. 
Proper pruning of the trees while young is very important. The object in view 
during this period is one of training and developing them into proper form. All 
shoots or branches growing out the first year should be cut off excepting those desired 
for forming the head. The following Winter the growth of the main scaffold limbs 
should be pruned back one-half to two-thirds of their season’s growth, depending upon 
the growth made. Care should be taken to have these main scaffold limbs sufficiently 
distributed up and down and around the trunk to avoid crowding in later years. The 
second year’s pruning consists in removing any superfluous shoots beyond two from each 
of the main scaflold limbs. You now have the main frame work of your tree started and 
future pruning should be determined by the orchardist. In order to develop a properly 
formed tree, keep in mind the necessity for the circulation of light and air through the 
interior of the tree. 
In order to produce fancy fruit it is necessary to avoid over-production, and proper 
thinning of the fruit is as essential as is proper spraying. Directions for spraying will 
be found in the spray calendar in the back part of this catalog. 
We wish to emphasize that unusual care is exercised in producing our frets by 
selecting scions from trees and orchards which we know to produce good fruit of the 
respective varieties. Every care is taken to insure against mis-labeling varieties. 
SUMMER VARIETIES. 
American Summer Pearmain. Medium; 
red streaked; flesh yellow, tender, juicy; 
a good bearer. August. 
* Astrakhan, Red. Large, deep crimson, 
juicy; vigorous grower, good bearer. 
Bough, Large Sweet. See Sweet Bough. 
Carolina Red June. (Red June.) Medium, 
red; tender, juicy. June. 
"Early Colton. Entirely hardy, valuable 
for family use. August. 
Early Harvest. (Yellow Harvest.) Medi- 
um; pale yellow, fine flavor. August. 
Early Strawberry. Medium, striped with 
red. August. 
Golden Sweet. Large, pale yellow, sweet; 
good bearer. August. 
Summer Queen. Medium to large; yellow 
streaked with red; flesh yellow and tender. 
July and August. 
Sweet Bough. Large; pale greenish yel- 
low, tender and sweet. August. 
