XX 
MEMOIR OF THE LATE 
ground some little islets looked richly green, and one strongly displayed 
its grey sterile rocky barrenness. After sunset for some time the hues of 
earth and sky were still more varied. Syra, which was purple a short time 
before, assumed a dark rich oil-green, and strongly cut, whilst the water 
at its base was no less strongly marked.” 
Syra, May 9th. — “ Dined with Mr. Wilkinson, the British Consul. 
From the balcony of his drawing-room is the finest and most beautiful 
view I have ever seen from a house situated in a town. It is placed at a 
great height above the sea, and commands a view over several of the is- 
lands, some of them at a considerable distance. The sea is beautifully 
clear beneath, and several species of fish are seen feeding and gambolling 
about. The hues of the sea-weed, too, are extremely pleasing to the eye, 
the rich green of the Tllva so much exceeding that of any plants seen here 
on land. Just below the balcony fishermen were engaged last night, with 
torches of pine, spearing the fish that were exposed to view. Here the 
water is shallow, and the fishermen waded ; whilst further out the sepia 
or cuttle-fish hunters were engaged, and with a brilliant light placed on 
a gridiron-like article, placed at the bow of the boat, looked most pic- 
turesque.” 
May 12th. — “ At half-past five o’clock we left Smyrna in the Sesostris 
French steam-packet for Constantinople. The “ jable ” of green waves up 
to the quay was precisely as I have seen them represented in some of 
Claude’s paintings, and I think in some of Canaletti’s fine Venetian 
views.” 
Delos, June 2nd. — “ Never was I so struck with the appearance of utter 
desolation as at Delos. At Rome, Athens, &c., the ruins connect the past 
with the present and tell the tale of many centuries, but here all is past — 
there is no present — not a human being claims the island as his home, 
though still before us are the columns of one of the seven wonders of the 
world, and well might the temple of Apollo (judging from its ruins) so 
be called.” 
Venice, July 2nd. — “ Went to church [Santa Maria de Fraria], con- 
taining Canova’s tomb, the grandest monument I have ever beheld : de- 
sign and execution are alike most admirable. Opposite to it in the church 
is the tomb of Titian, with his simple surname inscribed on one of the 
ordinary floor flags of the building. How strange this seems ! The gal- 
leries of Venice teem with his sublime paintings, many of them in colours 
rich and glowing, as they had just passed from the hands of their great 
artificer. We are enraptured with them, and pacing over the floor of a 
neighbouring church, start back with affright on lifting our foot from a 
common flag, to find that it rested upon and covered the name of Titian, 
who sleeps beneath it. In Venice, however, should Titian rest. In many 
respects is it of high importance that the mortal remains of the workman 
should thus as it were go hand in hand with his noblest work. Thus are 
the mortality and immortality of earth a striking lesson ! ” 
“ The first mournful reflections over on visiting such a tomb, do we not 
feel the bodily and intellectual pulse beat quicker, and urge us on to the 
best work of which we feel ourselves capable, before we are hidden be- 
neath the flag-stone.” 
Aldstatten, July 11th. — “ The mountain rises steeply from the town, 
and before proceeding very far, a most grand and extensive prospect was 
presented. In the immediate foreground on the sloping mountain-side 
all was of the loveliest Swiss character. Most picturesque cottages with 
their pretty little gardens and numerous bees’-caps placed against the 
