PREPARATION OF THE LAND. 
The principal requirement in preparing lana for planting 
is deep tillage, and the more thoroughly this work is done, the 
more certain is success. When possible, it is better to prepare 
the land in the late fail, so that it will be ready for early' 
spring planting. The land should be in as good condition as 
for any farm or garden crop. Bee that it is laid out in such 
a way that it can be irrigated without washing;; when pos- 
sible, avoid steep slopes. Aristakes are hard to correct after 
the orchard is planted. 
PREPARATION OF THE TREES. 
We believe that lack of experience and neglect of this oper- 
ation have been the cause of more failurees than any other one 
thing connected with orchard planting. 
The object of pruning is two-fold: First, to re-establish 
the balance between root and top. and, second, to secure a 
jead properly shaped and sufficiently open to the sun and air 
for the successful ripening of the fruit. As the tree stands 
In the nursery row. the balance between root and top is exact, 
that is, no more top is allow'ed to grow than the root will 
support. But in digging, some of the roots are cut oft, and 
after the tree is planted in the orchard and before it is estab- 
lished in the new soil. It should not be expected that the roots 
will support as much wood as it did in the nursery. Do not 
be afraid to cut them. Three to five limbs are enough for 
the first year’s growth, and if properly balanced, will make 
the best frame work. 
Remember that the distance between the limbs does not 
become any greater as the tree grow's. and leave the limbs far 
enough apart so they will not crowd. Four to six inches is 
about right. 
Head all fruit trees low, from twenty-four to thirty inches, 
so as to avoid damage from sun scald and hard winds, and 
also to lessen the labor of pruning and picking the fruit. 
AH the other limbs should be cut off entirely, and the 
four or five that are left should be cut back to about fifteen 
Inches. 
PLANTING. 
Do not plant when the ground is too wet, if it can be 
avoided. Rather, the soil should be dry enough to work for 
any other crop. Dig the holes large enough to hold the roots 
without cramping, and deep enough to let the tree stand about 
two or three inches deeper than it was in the nursery.. Put 
in the best top soil first, and when the hole is halt full, pour 
In water enough to settle the dirt firmly around the roots; then 
fill in until the soil is a little above the level. Do not expose 
the roots to the sun and wind any longer than is absolutely 
necessary. 
APPLES 
The selection of an apple orchard site cannot he governed 
by any arbitrary rule, opinions differ as to the best location 
and exposure, but it is believed that a gentle eastern or north- 
eastern slope gives best results, as such sites suffer less in 
both soil and tree from the effects of heat and drouth. Young 
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