HOW TO GROW THEM. 
f ll£ growing of trees from seeds is in the case of some varieties a very simpie and easy process, requiring but iitlle 
cure or skill on the part of the grower. 
Some varieties require special treatment and great care and attention to insure success; others are very difficult to 
grow, and planters are not very likely to succeed until after having made repeated failures. 
One important fact must be kept in view, and that is, it takes time f<ir these seeds to germinate, in some 
cases only a few days, in others, several weeks; while quite frequently they will lie dormant the whole season before 
commencing to grow. It often happens that seeds ot a given variety, all taken from the tree at one time, sown to- 
gether and subjected to the same treatment will show great irregularity in time of germinating, some coming up in a 
few days, others not until the next season, and still others not until the season following. 
Conifers and Evergreen Tree Seeds should be kept in perfectly dry sand until the time of sowing; if this 
cannot he done readily, place them in a cool, dry spot, wliore mice will not eat them. Chestnuts and Walnuts should 
bo planted in the fall, or kept during the winter in sand or moss; they shrivel up by too long exposure to the air and 
many of them lose their power of vegetating entirely. Apple, Pear, Quince Seed. Cherry Pits, Peach Pits’ also 
those with hard shells like the Locust, Magnolias, etc., should be placed in boxes with sand and exposed to frost 
before planting, otherwise they may not vegetate until a second year, but if too Jute in the spring to expose them to 
the action of the Irost, they may be put into a vessel of hot water for an hour or so before planting. The seeds of 
Deciduous Trees and Shrubs, with few exceptions, can bo planted from the eud of March to the middle of May 
with success. •' 
Ihe soil should be deep, mellow and rich; if not so, make it so by deep spading and thoroughly pulverizing the 
ground. If not rich, apply a good liberal dressing of any old, welUdecomposed manure; mix thoroughly with the 
soil and rake down all smooth and level, and your seed-bed is ready. Now draw a lino across one side of the plat and 
with the hoe make a shallow trench from a half to one inch deep, according to the size of the seed to be sown • make 
the trench about six inches wide, scatter the seeds over the bottom, but not too thickly, then draw the soil back and 
cover to the depth of about the thickness of the seeds as evenly as possible, then press the beds gently with the back 
of the spade to make firm the earth around the seeds. 
Great care must be taken not to give too much water, as the young plants imbibe moisture very easily. Water 
with u fine hose, but never so that the ground becomes soggy. Some shade must be used to protect the young plants 
from the hot, drying sun and winds, and also to keep the birds from destroying them. 
The trenches or drills are to be two feet apart, so that the hoe or garden cultivator can be employed in cultivation 
Keep the soil loose between the rows, and keep them well clear of weeds. Seeds of the rarer sorts may be sown in 
cold-frames or in boxes; if in cold-frames, the sashes should be shaded and the frame raised at the corner three or 
four inches to allow the air to circulate freely. ' 
Allow the young plants to remain from one to two years before transplanting. 
