HOW TO GROW THEM. 
f HE growing of trees from seeds is in the case of some varieties a very simple and easy process, requiring but little 
care or skill on the part of the grower. 
Some varieties require special treatment and great care and attention to insure success; others are very diflScult to 
grow, and planters are not very likely to succeed until after having made repeated failures. 
One important fact must be kept in view, and that is, it takes timb »ok these seed to qekminate, in some cases 
only a few days, in others, several weeks; while quite frequently they will lie dormant the whole season before com- 
mencing to grow. It often happens that seeds of a given variety, all taken from the tree at one time, sown together 
andsubjectd to the same treatment will show great irregiilariety in time of germinating, some coming np in a few 
days, others not until the nest season, and still others not until the season following. 
CoMiEEEs AND Evergkeen Tree Seeds sliouM be kept in perfectly dry sand until the time of sowing: if this can- 
not be done readily, place them in a cool, dry spot, where mice will not eat them. Chestnuts and Walnuts should 
be planted in the fall, or kept during the winter in sand or moss; they shrivel up by too long exposure to the air, and 
many of them lose their power of vegetating entirely Apple, Pear, Quinoe Seed, Chekrt Pits, Peaoh Pits, also 
those with hard shells like the Locust, Magnolias, etc., should be placed in boxes with sand and exposed to frost 
before planting, otherwise they may not vegetate until a second year, but if too late in the spring to expose them to 
the action of the frost, they may be put into a vessel of hot water for an hour or so before planting. The seeds of 
Deciduous Trees and Shrubs, with few exceptions, can bo planted from the end of March to the middle of May with 
success. 
The soil should be deep, mellow and rich; if not so, make it so by deep spading and thoroughly pulverizing the 
ground. If not rich, apply a good liberal dressing of any old, well decomposed manure; mix thoroughly with the 
soil and raked down all smooth and level, and your seed-bed is ready. Now draw a line across one side of the plant, 
and with the hoe make a shallow trench from a half to one inch deep, according to the size of the seed to bo sown; 
make the trench about six inches wide, scatter the seeds over the bottom, but not too thickly, then draw the soil back 
and cover to the depth of about the thickness of the seeds as evenly as possible, then press the beds gently with the 
back of the spade to make firm the earth around the seeds. 
Great care must be taken not to give too much water, as the young plants Imbibe moisture very easily. Water 
with a fine hose, but never so that the ground becomes soggy. Some shade must be used to protect the young plants 
from the hot, drying sun and winds, and also to keep the birds from destroying them. 
The trenches or drills are to be two feet apart, so that the hoe or garden cultivator can be employed in cultivation. 
Keep the soil loose between the rows, and keep them well clear of the weeds. Seeds of the rarer sorts may be sown in 
cold-frames or in boxes; if in cold-frames, the sashes should be shaded and the frame raised at the corner three or 
four inches to allow the air to circulate freely. 
Allow the young plants to remain from one to two years before transplanting. 
