HOW TO GROW THEM. 
f HE growinjf of trees from seeds is in the case of some varieties a very simple and easy process, requirlnff but littla 
care or skill on the part of the grower. ® 
Some varieties require special treatment and great care and attention to insure success; others are very difficult to 
grow, and planters are not very likely to succeed until after having made repeated failures. 
One important fact must be Kept in view, and that is, it takes time vob these seed to oebminate, in some cases 
only a few days, in others, several weeks; while quite frequently they will lie dormant the whole season before com- 
mencing to grow. It often happens that seeds of a given variety, all taken from the tree at one time, sown together 
and subjectd to the same treatment will show great irregulariety in time of germinating, some coming up in a few 
days, others not until the next season, and still others not until the season following. 
Conifers and Evergreen Tree Seeds should be kept in perfectly dry sand until the time of sowing; if this can- 
not be done readily, place them in a cool, dry spot, where mice will not eat them. Che.stnuts and Walnuts should 
be planted in the fall, or kepi during the winter in sand or moss; they shrivel up by too long exposure to the air and 
inany of them lose their power of vegetating entirely Apple, Pear, Quince Seed, Cherry Pits Peach Pits *al«o 
t^hose with hard shells like the Locust, Magnolias, etc., should be placed in boxes with sand and exposed to frost 
before planting, otherwise they may not vegetate uutil a second year, but if too late in the spring to expose them to 
t he action of the frost, they may be put into a vessel of hot water for an hour or so before planting. The seeds of 
Deoiduous Trees and Shrubs, with few exceptions, can be planted from the end of March to the middle of Mar with 
success. ^ 
The soil should be deep, mellow and rich; if not so, make it so by deep spading and thoroughly pulverizing the 
ground. If not rich, apply a good liberal dressing of any old, well decomposed manure; mix thoroughly with the 
soil and raked down all smooth and level, and your seed-bed is ready. Now draw a line across one side of the plant 
and with the hoe make a shallow trench from a half to one inch deep, according to the size of the seed to be sown' 
make the trench about six inches wide, scatter the seeds over the bottom, but not too thickly, then draw the soil back 
and cover to the depth of about the thickness of the seeds as evenly as possible, then press the beds gently with the 
back of the spade to make firm the earth around the seeds. 
Great care must be taken not to give too much water, as the young plants imbibe moisture very easily. Water 
with a flue hose, but never so that the ground becomes soggy. Some shade must be used to protect the young plants 
from the not, drying sun and winds, and also to keep the birds from destroying them. 
The trenches or drills are to be two feet apart, so that the hoe or garden cultivator can be employed in cultivation 
Keep the soil loose between the rows, and keep them well clear of the weeds. Seeds of the rarer sorts may be sown in 
cold-frames or in boxes; if in cold-frames, the sashes should be shaded and the frame raised at the corner three or 
four inches to allow the air to circulate freely. 
Allow the young plants to remain from one to two years before transplanting. 
