Chap. IL 
Northern Coafts of E u R o P e» 
Our Guides perceiving the Terror we were in, bid us 
Uot be afraid, for we need only have our Arms ready to 
defend ourfelves, in cafe they approached too near us j 
which we did, cocking and priming our Pieces, and 
hacking our Flints. Whether or no the Bears were 
frightened at the Fire we ftruck out of the Flints, or with 
the Smell of the Powder, I fhall not undertake to decide •, 
but they prefently fled away from us fo faft, that in 
a Moment they were out of Sight. An Hour before 
Night, as we defcended a Mountain, we elpied a Dozen 
Houfes at the Foot of it \ they were at a great Diftance 
one from another. Somewhat farther off we faw a Herd 
of Beafts like Stags, which our Guides told us were Rain- 
Deer. When we came to the Village, the Laplanders 
tliat travelled with us conducted us to a Hut, where, 
being very weary, we were glad to reft ourfelves, for 
we had a long Journey in very bad Way, with Luggage 
on our Backs, that incumbered and tired us. We gave 
a Piece of a Roll of Tobacco to our Hoft, who received 
it with Joy, affuring us he had not had fo valuable a 
Prefent in nine Months before ; to make us Amends he 
brought out his Brandy Bottle, fome Rain-Deers Flefh 
dreffed without falting, and fome dried Fifh j which we 
gave to our Guides, and flipped ourfelves with the 
Victuals v/e brought with us ; when we had made an 
End of our Supper we went to our Repofe, and lay down 
on Bears-Skins, after the Country Fafhion. When we 
rofe in the Morning, we afked our Hoft if he had no- 
thing to barter with us for Cloth and Tobacco ; he re- 
plied he had fome Wolf, Fox, and white Squirrel Skins, 
and his Neighbours had fome of the fame Commodities, 
and would gladly truck with us. We bid him, by our 
Interpreters, bring out his Skins j and if he had any Cloaths 
made of Rain-Deer Skins, we would deal with him for 
four Suits, which we wanted to keep us warm 5 accord- 
ingly, he brought forth his Merchandize, and we bought 
k of him, paying him Part in Tobacco, and Part in 
Cloth. We trucked alfo with his Neighbours, as long 
as they had any thing to offer us worthy our buying ; 
and when we had drained that Market, we prayed the 
Hoft to lend us fome Rain-Deers, to carry us farther up 
the Country ; and he was very willing to help us to the 
Utmoft ot his Power. 
TheTobacco we gave him having gained his^ Friend- 
fhip intirely, he took down a Horn that hung up in his 
Cottage, wentout andblewitto call the Rain-Deer to him. 
Immediately fourteen or fifteen of thofe Animals came 
running towards the PI ut : He put fix of them to fix 
Sledges, each Sledge made fomewhat like a Gondola ; it 
was placed on four Pofts joined together by other crofs 
Pofts nailed to them, and this was faftened to two Pofts 
two Feet longer than the Sledge that run on the Ground. 
We put our Merchandize in one Sledge, each of us had 
one for himfelf, and the other we affigned to one of our 
Guides, who underftood the Language of the Mufcovite 
Laplander^ and that ot the Kilops •, him we took with us j 
the other two Inhabitants of Varanger we difmiffed, 
having paid them in Tobacco for their Trouble. We put 
on our Lapland Cloaths, and lay down each of us in 
his Sledge covered with a Bear-Skin j at the Back of the 
Sledge there were two Girts made of Rain-Deer Skin 
Leather, in which we thruft our Arms up to the Shoul- 
ders, to keep ourfelves fteady j and we had each a Stick 
with a ftrong Ferrel to it, to ftipport the Sledge if it 
Ihould be likely to overturn by Stumps of Trees, or 
Stones lying in the Way* When we were ready to fet out, 
our Hoft muttered fome Words in the Ear of the Rain- 
Deer j I enquired afterwards of our Guide, what he 
meant by it. He faid, it was to tell them whither 
they Ihould carry us j fo filly are thefe barbarous 
Wretches. 
Cuftom had made that muttering fo familiar to the 
Beafts that drew us, that when our Hoft had gone to all 
fix, they ran away with us fo fwiftly, that we thought we 
were drawn by fo many Devils •, they continued their Pace 
over Hills and Dales, without keeping the beaten Road 
all Day long, till feven o’Clock in theEvening, when they 
brought us to a large Village fituate between two 
Mountains, near a great Lake •, here they flopped fhort 
at the fourth Houfe in the Place, which though large 
Was very ordinary aiid clownilb. They beat the Ground 
with their Feet ; and the Man hearing a Noifcj came 
forth with his Servants, to take us out of the Sledges^ 
and unharnefs our Cattle, and one of them brought 
out a little Juniper Can^ full of Brandy, of which he 
gave each of us a Brimmer, out of a Bowl made alfo of 
Juniper Wood. This was to put us in heart 5 for our 
Guide had informed him that we were afraid of our 
Lives, being drawn away fo fwiftly by thefe Animals irl 
Sledges, which was a Way of Travelling we were not 
ufed to. The Horns of thefe Beafts, both Male and 
Female, are fomewhat higher than the Stags, but more 
crooked, hairy, and not fo well furnifhed with Sprouts 
as a Stag’s are ; they are of the fame Colour as Stags, 
and not much bigger ; their Feet are cloven like theirs, 
but as big as Floofs of Oxen ; They live upon Mofs, 
which grows every where in thofe Parts : The Females 
yield Milk like Cows j xhz Laplander s m2kje. Butter and 
Cheefeofit, and both are very good* Their Harnefs is 
a Collar of Rain-Deer Leather, by which they are faftened 
to the two Shafts of the Sledge, not much unlike our 
Horfes to a Coach ; thus they draw it with incredible 
Speed diredtly to the Place whither you are to go, with- 
out being guided by him who rides in it. 
6. When we got out of our Sledges, We Were con- 
duced by our Hoft into his Hut, which, like the reft 
of the Cottages in the Place, was very little, low, and 
covered with the Bark of Trees, the Light entering in 
at a Hole at the Top of it, as we have elfe where ob- 
ferved. Thefe Laplanders were cioathed in a manner little 
differing from thofe of P^ar anger j their Apparel was 
of the fame Make and Materials, but longer , their 
Coats were of Ram-Deer Skins, the Flair turned out- 
wards. The Women were dreffed in Garments of the 
fame Skin, their Flair twifted as the Womens of Va- 
ranger \ on their Heads they wore a high Bonnet inftead 
of a Coif, which was made of the fame Skins with their 
Cloaths, and the Hair ftill outwards. 
We gave our Hoft an End of Tobacco about two 
Inches long, with which he was mightily pleafed, and 
thanked us heartily for it : We gave an End not quite fo 
long to each of the Inhabitants of the Place, to make 
them our Friends, and to fecure us the better againft any 
Attempts Barbarians, who were more brutal than 
thofe we laft deal with. We flipped on the Provifions 
we brought with us, and our Guides eat fome of our 
Hofts fait Filh, and frefh Rain-Deer Venifon. We 
aflced him how many Leagues we had come that Day ? 
he anfwered, about thirty, and that we were in the Ter- 
ritories of Mourmanjkeimore. The Inhabitants talked a 
Language quite different from thofe at Varanger j bUt 
our Guide had been often in the Country, and under- 
ftood them, and was underftood by them. After Supper 
we lay dov/n on Bear-Skins to take our Reft, as we 
had done the Night before, having firft bartered away our 
Lapland Flabits with our Hoft for others that were 
longer, and a Parcel of Tobacco for a hundred grey 
Squirrels, a Fur very much efteemed in Denmark, and 
other Parts of Europe. The next Day, being the 14th 
of May, we told our Floft, by our Interpreter, that we 
defired him to provide Sledges to go farther into the 
Country , this he did accordingly. The other Inhabit- 
ants of the Village came to help us forward in our 
Journey, bringing Brandy with them to drink to us at 
parting. They put fix Rain-Deer to fix Sledges, in one 
of them we flowed our Merchandife and Provifions ", 
and our Hoft having performed the Ceremony of mut- 
tering in the Ears of the Beafts, we were drawn along 
with the fame Swiftnefs as before. We came to no Place 
that was inhabited till about three o’Clock in the After- 
noon, and then we arrived at a Village, wherein were 
eight Cottages, built on a high Mountain by a Wood- 
fide, where our Cattle flopped j by which we gueffed 
that there were fome Inhabitants ; but feeing no-body 
come to us, we baited our Rain-Deer with Mofs, which 
grew there plentifully, and refrefhed ourfelves with fait 
Beef and Bifket ; our Interpreter regaled himfelf upon 
fome Rain-Deer, Venifon, and dried Filh : All of us 
making merry with the Brandy we had given us in W"^ 
laft Village. We ftaid in this Place near an Ho’ 
