Book n 
then our Guide, who underftood the Way of making 
Rain-Deers go as well as the other Laplanders did, endea- 
voured to get them forward ; but he had much-ado to 
effedf it. 
This Place being their ufual Stage, he was forced to 
perform feveral myfterious and ridiculous Ceremonies *, 
he went alone into the Wood, and coming out again, 
muttered fomeWords in the Ears of thefe Animals, which 
whether they underftood or not, had little Effeft upon 
them, for they did not llir. He did fo four or five times, 
and then he began to proceed, though not fo fwiftly as 
before. We afked him the Reafon why we faw no body 
in the Village ? He replied, ’twas a very comimon thing 
in that Country; thefe Dwellings belong to tht Kilops, 
a Nation of Laplanders more wild than the others ; who 
often change their Habitations ; fly from Strangers, 
and fubfift only by what they get by hunting. Continu- 
ing our Journey, we defcended the Mountain; about 
nine o’clock we fpied four Xz/opj not far off, returning 
£rom hunting, in Sledges drawn by Rain-Deer ; to avoid 
us they turned afide out of our Way, and took another. 
In lefs than half an Hour we entered a long Wood, in 
which we heard terrible hOwlings and cryings, but faw 
nothing ; when we got through the Wood, we had ano- 
ther Mountain to defcend, at the Bottom of which we 
perceived there was a Village ; our Cattle carried us to it, 
and flopped and beat the Ground at what Cottage they 
pleafed. Our ufual Prefent of Tobacco, purchafed us our 
ufual Welcome of the Mafter of the Houfe ; we made a 
good Supper on our Provifions, as our Guide did on his, 
and down we lay, according to Cuftom, to take our 
refl on Bear Skins ; which, though homely, was a wel- 
come Repofe to our wearied Limbs, fufficiently jogged 
in the Sledges. 
In the Morning we rofe as early as the Hofl:, and de- 
manded of our Interpreter how many Leagues we had 
travelled the Day before ? He replied, at leaft, forty. 
But he muft be out, either in his reckoning, or the 
Leagues mull not be fo long as they are generally calcu- 
lated to be ; for forty of their Leagues make one hun- 
dred and fixty of thofe between Paris and Lyons ; each 
Lapland League being as long as a German : Let a Man 
be ever fo well mounted, he cannot ride on Horfe-back 
above five a Day. Our Guide alfo informed us that we 
were in the Mufcovite Lapland ; we bid him aflc the In- 
habitants of the Village, v/hom we had prefented with 
Tobacco, and been treated by them with Brandy, whe- 
ther they had any Commodities to truck with us for To- 
bacco and Cloth We had fome Rolls of the former left, 
and moft of our Bales of the latter. Tobacco being by 
much the better Commodity, the Laplanders replied, they 
had fome Furs, we afked to fee them, and they brought 
them out to fhew us : They were white Fox Skins, black 
and grey Fox Skins, grey Squirrels, and Sables, though 
not of fo fine a Colour as thofe of Borandia, Samojedia^ 
and Siberia. Thefe Merchandizes were what we want- 
ed, fo we foon flruck a Bargain, and paid the Inha- 
bitants in Cloth and Tobacco. When our Market was 
Over, we fell to drinking with them ; they were not quite 
fo brutal as the other Laplanders we had dealt with, but 
they were very rude and indecent in Converfation, doing 
things before us that Decency will not permit me to 
name. It growing late, and we defigning to proceed 
yet further, to difpofe of the few Rolls of Tobacco we 
had left ; we prayed our Flofi:, by our Interpreter, to fur- 
nifh us with Sledges and frefh Rain-Deer. 
^ He harnefied and prepared as many as we had Occa- 
fion for ; we mounted our Sledges and departed at one 
o’clock ; we ran with our former Speed, through differ- 
ent and unbeaten Paths, till fix, without meeting with 
One Habitation ; half an Hour after we were defcending 
a Hill, we fpied tv/o Huts under a Rock, a little out of 
the Way ; our Guide told us that two Kilops lived there, 
who, as foon as they faw us, fled with their Wives 
and Families. We travelled two Hours longer, and 
came to no Houfe, or any thing like a dwelling Place ; 
till at laft we difcovered a great Village on the Side of a 
Hillj and on the Banks of a River; here we arrived at 
G E 'the 
eleven o’ Clock at Night, and went to the Cottage for a 
Lodging, whither our Cattle were pleafed to condudt us. 
It happened to be in the Middle of the Village ; the 
Mafter of the Houfe received us very kindly, made a 
Fire in the Middle of his ITut, gave us Brandy, dried 
Filh, and Rain-Deer-Venifon faked, at which we were 
a little furprized, having not met with any in our Tra- 
vels hitherto, who made ufe of Salt as thefe did ; . he alfo 
gave us Milk' and Salt-Butter, very good, and it would 
have been better, had we had any Bread to eat with it ; but 
we had confumed our Store, and Ihould have been very 
much put to it, had we not met with fo good Enter- 
tainment here. Our Guide would not tafte a bit of Salt- 
Meat, fo he was obliged to live on the frefh Venifon he 
brought with him. Having flipped plentifully, we lay 
down on Bear Skins, and flept till-Morning ; w^e rofe 
early the next Day, took our Leave of our Hoft, and 
there being no trading in that Village, paffed the River to 
proceed to Kola, on the other Side of that Stream, which 
is as big as the Seine. 
We came to another Village, and w^ent to the moft 
likely Houfe to hire Sledges and Rain-Deer, to carry us 
to Kola^ for we could get none in the Place where 
we lodged ; here v/e furnifiied ourfelves, and about 
Noon arrived at Kola^ a little City, or rather a great 
Town ; built among Mountains, on the Side of a River,' 
near ten Leagues from the North Sea. To the Eaft of it 
are large Forefts and Defarts ; Mourmanjkeimore to the 
Weft, and prodigious high Mountains to the South. The 
Houfes are very low, built of Wood, and handfomely 
covered with Fifh-bones : On the Top of thehi the Light 
enters in at a Hole, as in other Places in Lapland. There 
is but one Street in it, and that no fine one. The Inhabit- 
ants, like the other Mufcovites^ are fevere, fufpicious, 
and fo jealous, that they lock up their Wives, that 
Strangers may not fee them. Our Hoft took all our Cloth 
off our Hands, for which he gave us, in Exchange, two 
Lynx-Skins, fpotted like a Leopard’s, three Dozen of 
white Fox-Skins, half a Dozen of U'^yetfras, an Animal 
which fomewhat refembles a Badger, but its Hair is 
longer and rougher ; his Colour is a blackifti red, and 
his Tail like a Fox’s ; we had alfo fome Ermines of him. 
There were fome Ells of Cloth above wdiat we were to 
give him, for which he obliged himfelf to fupply us 
with Provifions for our Journey back to Varanger^ and 
to help us to Sledges, as far as the River we lately paffed ; 
he treated us as well as he could, and we flipped, and 
flept as we had done elfewhere. 
7. The next Morning, as we were preparing to depart, 
our Hoft, having provided Bifket, Ginger, Bread, and ' 
Rain-Deer-V enifon faked and dried, as alfo a Barrel of 
Brandy, to ferve us in our Return ; before we had quite 
packed up our Furs in Bales, his Neighbours under- . 
' ftanding we had ftill a few Rolls of Tobacco left, came 
to afk if we would truck them for more Skins We re- 
plied, with all our Hearts ; fo they fetched them, being 
a Dozen of Ermines, two white Foxes Skins, and four 
Lynxes, not fo good as thofe we had of our Hoft. The 
Bargain made, we took their Furs, and gave them the , 
refidue of our Cargo of Tobacco, except feven or eight 
Rolls, which we referved for our own Ufe, and to pay ior 
the Hire of our Rain-Deer and Sledges in our Way back. 
Tobacco is more neceffary than Money, to thofe who 
travel- in that wild and unfrequented Country ; the Lap- 
landers valuing an End of Tobacco as long as ones Fin- 
ger, more than a Crown Piece. The Kings of Denmark 
and Sweden., and the Czar of Mufccvy\ have laid feveral 
Taxes upon it ; and there are Officers fettled in their 
frontier Towns, to colleft their Impofts upon it. When 
we had done our Bufinefs, according to the Cuftom of 
the Place, we muft drink with our Chapman ; our En- 
tertainment every where was Brandy, and it held till two 
o’clock in the Afternoon. We then intreated our Floft 
to get the Sledges, we had hired of him, ready ; which he 
did in one Minute. We ftored our Merchandize in 
one of them, got into the other ourfelves, drank a full 
Glafs at parting with our Dealers, bid them adieu, and 
fet out for the Village on the other Side of the River we 
