Chap. III. Greatefl Tart /?/ 1 1 a l Y. 575 
Loretto, we were in the lead affronted on the Account of 
not worfhipping Relkks or Images, the worft we ever 
heard upon that Scbre being ftiled now and then, Non 
fane Chrijliani, no found Chnjtians. 
5. The Way between Rome and Viterbo has little re- 
markable, except fome Remnants of the Via Emilia, 
which we found of the fame Breadth with the other Con- 
fular High-roads, The 2.nciQi\t Lac us Cy minus Lake 
de Vico) is at the Foot of a very high Hill, but of an eafy 
Afcent, bearing the fame Name with the Lake. It is 
almoft covered with Sycamores and Chefnut-trees, and 
produces vaft Quantities of Primrofes, Narcijfus’s, Hya^ 
cinths, and many other Flowers. The City of Viterbo 
is built of Stone, and furrounded with a Wall : Befides 
its Steeples, it has eight or ten fquare Towers, built by 
the Inhabitants for Retreats during the inteftine Com- 
motions of the Guelph and Gibellin Faftions. The fol- 
lowing Infcription on the Town-houfe, gives you an 
Account of the Reftoration of the ancient Tufcan Name 
Viterbo. 
Defiderius ultimus Infubrium Rex Longulam, Vetulo- 
niam atque Volturniam mcenibus cingit : fs? Etruria 
friore Nomine indubio, Viterbium, mulBa capitis in- 
dible, appellari jubet. Sal. An. DCC.LXXIII. 
Schroder fays he faw another ancient Infcription. 
M. T. Ciceronem ob egregias ejus virtutes fingularefque 
animi dotes ; per totum Orhem nojiris armis virtuteque 
perdomitum 5 falvum C? incolumem ejfejubemus. 
In the before-mentioned Place is to be feen another 
auihentick Infcription, confirming the Donation made 
by the Countefs Maud to the See of Rome : 
JEterna memorise inclyt^ Mathildis, qua ob prajiabile 
Religionis Jiudium, ac pietatem, fedi Pontificia fuum 
hoc patrimonium. Dim Petri in Lhufcia dein nuncu- 
patum elargitur. Et in veterem Urbis ejus fplendo^ 
rem intuens, Pafchalis II. Bleden Pontif. Max, ejus 
Metropolim, ut ante Viterbium conjlituit. An. S. 1 1 1 3. 
It would be a fine Thing for the Romanifls, if they 
had fo good a Plea for the Donation of Conjianiine \ 
the Latin Verfion of it is to be feen in Barth. Picerna and 
Aug. Steuchus, pretended to be done after the Greek 
Original in the Vatican ; it is alfo inferred in Gratian^s 
Decretals, but St. Antonin of Florence affures us it is not ' 
in the old Decretals ; and divers noted Authors have 
refuted this Fable. 
This puts me in Mind of a witty Repartee of Hiero- 
nymo Donato, Venetian Ambaffador to Alexander VI. who 
being ask’d by the Pope where their Title of Sovereignty 
to the Adriatick Gulph was recorded \ reply’d^ That 
his HoUnefs might jind their Lille written on the 'Sack of 
the Donation of Conftantine. Notwithftanding the In- 
fcription of Defiderius mentions only three Cities united 
under the Name of Viterbo, yet I remember that this 
City is fometimes ftiled Letrapolis, and its Inhabitants 
Fluaterni Populi ; the Names of the four Cities are ex* 
prefs’d in a Diftich written on the Top of the Stair- 
<^afe in the Town-houfe : 
iLz^rFanum, Arbanum, Vetulonia, Longula quondam 
Oppida, dant Urbem : prima Elementa. F. A. U. L. 
Some deduce the Origin of the Viterbium 
from Ifis and Ofiris, for which they produce fome 
Greek and Latin Infcriptions ; but being inform’d by 
credible Perfons that they were fuppofititious, and fup- 
pos’d to have been contrived by John Annius the Do- 
minican, known commonly by the Name of Annius Vi- 
terbienfis, an Author of no Reputation, 1 will not infert 
them here. 
In one of the Halls of the Town-houfe you fee a Pic- 
ture reprefentmg an innumerable Swarm of Locufts, 
which darkened the Sun and cover’d the Earth, devou- 
ring every thing they met with upon the Ground about 
Viterbo. This happened in 1526. relates fuch 
another Story, which happened in France in 873, and 
was followed by a great Plague ; and Oforius anothef: 
Inftance of the fame Nature, which, he fays, happen’d 
in Africk in the Year of the World 3825. 
We were no fooner come within Sight of Montefiaf- 
cone, a little Town feated on a little Hill within eight 
Miles of Viterbo, but the Children came out and ask^d 
us, whether we would not take a View of the Ed, eft, 
eft ? The Story, I know, has been mention’d by others^ 
but perhaps not with all its Circumftances : A certain 
Abbot or Bifhop travelling from Germany to Italy, ufed 
to fend a Servant before, to know in which Inn he 
could meet with the beft "Wine, and to mark it with the 
Word Eft over the Door. Coming to Montejiafcone^ 
the Servant was fo highly pleas’d with the Mufcatello, 
that he writ three Efts over the Door, which inviting 
his Mafter to drink more plentifully than he ufed to do, 
he fell fick and died on the Spot ; his Monument 
ftands in St. Flavian*^ Church, about two hundred Pa- 
ces from the Town ; he is reprefented with a Mitre 
on his Plead, with two Scutcheons {quarterly in the firfi 
a Lion, in the fecond two Feffes, the Shield not blazoned) 
and as many Drinking-glaffes on each Side of him 
at his Feet you fee the following Infcription in GothicV 
Characters, by Way of Epitaph, made in all Probabi- 
lity by his Servant ; 
Eft, Eft, Eft, propter nimium Eft, Joh, de Fuc. D, 
meus mortuus eft. 
That isj 
Ed, Eft, Elt, by taking too much of Eft, 
John de Fuc, my Lord, died like a Beaft. 
His true Name was John de Pucris, and he was of a 
great Family in Augsburgh. 
All the Way between Montefiaf cone and Bolfena, we 
pafs’d near the Banks of the Lake of that Name ; it is 
of an oval Figure, and forty Miles in Compafs ; it con- 
tains two Elands, called Mariana and Pajfentina the 
firft is celebrated for the Banifhment of Amalefuntha, 
the Daughter of Lheodoric King of the Goths, who was 
afterwards murther’d there by the Command of her 
Coufm Lheodat, whom fhe had made her Aflbciate in 
the Government. Bolfena is a very indifferent Town, 
formerly an Epifcopal See, till it was tranflated to Or- 
vieio. Behind it you fee the Ruins of the ancient Volfmi- 
um, which, as Pliny relates, was burnt by Lightning. The 
Country between Bolfena and Aquapendente, is the worft 
in the whole World 5 the laft of thefe two is poor and 
almoft defolate, yet retains the Title of an Archbiftiop- 
rick ever fince the DeftruClion of Caftro. Centino, 2 
little Village at the Foot of the Hill Radicofani, is the 
utmoft Boundary of the Pope’s Dominions on that Side 5 
the Town and Citadel, built by Defiderius the laft King 
of the Lombards, bearing the Name of the faid Hill 
upon which they ftand, are for half the Year conceal’d 
in the Clouds. In our Way hence towards Siena, we 
faw for eight or ten Miles nothing but barren Moun- 
tains ; but as we came towards Sc. ^irieo, the Country 
began to grow better and better, though this lafted not 
long, for near lorrinieri the Land grew worfe than be- 
fore, and continued thus, with fome fmall Alteration, 
till we came to Siena. 
Siena, the third City, and perhaps the moft plealant- 
ly fituated in all Lufcany ; its Air is excellent, the Streets, 
though not level, yet very neat, being pav’d with Bricks 
laid fideways ; the Houfes are handfomely built, and the 
Water very good ; befides that, the Lufcan Language 
is fpoken here in its utmoft Purity, without the Rough- 
nefs of the Florentine DialeCt. 
The Cathedral of Siena is a Gothick StruClure, but very 
beautiful, and one of the moft perfeCf among all the great 
Churches of Europe, being cover’d within and without 
with Marble ; the Pavement is of black and white Mar- 
ble a la Mofaique in the Choir. On the Corridor run- 
ning round the Body of the Infide of the Church, are 
to be feen the Statues of the Popes, and among the reft 
there is one fmooth-chin’d Creature, which, as is faid, 
was placed there in the Room of the Popefs Joan : Ba- 
ronius fays, it was taken away and broken to Pieces 
Launoy %ys it was to be feen in 1634, and Blondel ac- 
knowledges 
