57 ^ 
M I s s o n’j 
Book If. 
knowledges the fame, as alfo the Statue erected in the arch’d, furmounted by a Cupola : By an Infcription on a 
Place where Pope Joan was deliver’d j Father Mdbilhn Pillar of this Baptiftery it appears, that the Church was 
confeffes the fame Statue, and fays, that the Name Jo- finilh’d 1153. Here is an Eccho, which mao-nifies a 
hannes VIII. Fomina Anglia was added to it. All the Noife to fuch a Decree, that the Sound thereof lafts as 
Authors that ever I faw, who inveigh againft the Story long as the Tinkling of a great Bell. Travellers make 
of this female Pope, and mention this Statue, acknow- a great Wonder of the Leaning Tower, which fome 
ledge that it is ftill remaining, or at leaft, that it really pretend to appear leaning on all Sides,’ by a peculiar 
fubfifted heretofore. This Strudure was begun by Art of the Archited, when, in Effed, its Inclination is 
do, Dominic Beccafumi, That Part next only on one Side, occafioned by the Sinkino- of the 
the Choir is beautified with the Pidures oi Abraham^ 5 Foundation: Its whole Height is a hundred and eighty 
Sacrifice, and the Paffage of the Ifraelites through the eight Feet, and is of the Figure of an exad Cylinder 
Red-Sea ; the arch’d Roof is azur’d, intermix’d with I let down a Plummet from the Balcony on the Top* 
Stars of Gold. From the Church you pafs into the on that Side where it inclines moft, and after feverd 
Place where the Library was kept formerly ; here we Tryals both to the Right and Left, found that the Lead 
faw thofe glorious Pieces in Frefco reprefenting the Life touch’d fifteen Foot diftant from the Foundation, 
of Pius II. defign’d by Raphael, but painted by Peter The famous Burying-place of Siena, call’d* Campo 
Perugin his Mafter, with Bernardin and Pinturicchio ; Santo, (becaufe the Earth was brought from the Holy 
moft of the Faces reprefent Perfons then alive ; among Land 1228.) is a Kind of Cloyfter, one hundred and 
others, the Pope’s Soul foaring upwards in the Shape ninety Paces long, and fixty fix broad. On a Wall 
of a Paradife Bird, and the Hermit gazing on it, is an under one of the Portico’s I faw an Infcription, being 
exquifite Piece. _ ^ a Decree of the Senate of Pifa upon the Death of 
I will not detain you with the Story of St. Katherine Cafar, ordering their Subjects to appear in Mourning 
of Siena, but I can’t pafs by in Silence the old Citadel for a whole Year, and to abftain from all publick Di- 
with fifteen or twenty fquare Towers •, among thefe the vertifements. I will not trouble you with their Phyfick- 
Tower of Mangiana is mightily extoll’d for its Height, garden, as having nothing memorable in it ; but I 
but it is by thofe who have feen but few others. The muft not quite forget the Knights of St. Stephen, who 
Arms of Siena are, the famous She-wolf that gave Suck have their Refidence here : They muft be of ’noble 
to Romulus and Remus, founded upon a Fable, that Si- Blood, and born in Wedlock : They vow Conjugal 
was built by the Children of Remus. Travelling Chaftity, and fay a hundred Pater Hosiers and Ave 
between the City of Siena and the River Arno, we found Maria's every Day. This Order was founded by the 
the Ground grow better and better the nearer we came Great Duke Cofmo I. 1561, the fixth of Augujl, after he 
to the River, efpecially about Camiano, Granayola, Ponte had gain’d the Battle of Marciano ; his Statue ftands di- 
d'Era, and between Pontgihon and Pifa. Near Pont- redly oppofite (in the Place) to the Church. 
gibon or Poggi-bonzi (famous for its Tobacco) we met Leghorne is about fourteen Miles diftant from Pifa, 
whole Troops of Girls going from Houfe to Houfe fing- the Country between them being very level, but woody* 
ing and wifiiing a merry May ; their Songs are compo- fill’d with Oaks, Cork-trees, and wild Myrtles ; They 
fed of a Number of pleafant Wiflies, every Stanza con- tell you, that thefe Woods were formerly all cover’d 
eluding with a merry, merry. May. by the Sea, which reach’d within three Miles of Pifa, 
On feveral fandy Hills near Certaldo, we faw great where you fee a large Church at the Entrance of thefe 
Quantities of feveral Sorts of Shells, as we had before at Woods, which, they tell you, was built in the fame 
Monte-Mario, a Mile from Rome, in the Alps in France, Place where St. Peter was Ihipwreck’d one Day when 
and other Places •, the fame have been obferved by Ole- he was fifhing. I need not tell you, that Leghorne is a 
arius. Stem, Cambden, Speed, and others. I received modern City, built on a level Ground, and ftrengthened 
your Obfervations with a great deal of Satisfadion, but, with good Fortifications faced with Brick-work *, its 
to deal frankly with you, I muft tell you, that I differ Streets are large, ftreight, and uniform, the Houfes 
with you in Opinion for if thefe Shells were the Re- generally of the fame Height, and painted on the Out- 
mainders of the Deluge, I fee no Reafon why the fame fide. In our Journey from Leghorne to Lucca, pafling 
Ihould not rather have been left in the Valleys, and a fecond Time through Pifa, we faw, three Miles on 
more univerfally fpread upon the Surface of the Earth ; this Side of it, the craggy Mount St. Julian, the Boun- 
whereas now they are only gather’d into Heaps in cer- dary betwixt 3 * ufcany and the Republick of Lucca. 
tain Places. Nor fee I any fufficient Caufe to have Re- The City is moft pleafantly feated in a fruitf^ul Plain 
courfe to fuppofed Inundations, Tempefts, and Erup- of fifteen or twenty Miles in Extent, enclofed by very 
tions; for though fome fuch Thing might rationally rich and well-cultivated Hills ; its Fortifications are re- 
be concluded in reference to certain Places fubjed to gular, and faced with Bricks : We walked round the 
Earthquakes, (as for Inftance, t\it New Vefuvius, or Ramparts in an Hour’s Time : But though it is not fo 
Monte Nuovo) yet as the fame Reafon does not hold in big as Pifa, it contains many ftately Houfd, and is 
all other Places where thefe Shells are found, fo the very well peopled. They Ihew’d us the Palace of the 
Solution of this Phoenomenon may with much more Eafe Republick, where the Gonfalonier, or Standard-bearer, 
be look’d for in the fame Property upon the Land which with the feven Anziani, or Counfellors, lodge and eat 
produres thefe Shells at Sea. You will perhaps tell me, together. The State of Lucca is a Fief of the Empire 5 
that Shells are infeparable from Fifties, Snails, i£c. but its Government is Ariftocratical, managed by the Coun- 
you may eafily anfwer your felf, if you will but confider, cil of two hundred and forty Nobles, divided into two 
that Shells have been found in the Stomachs, Kidneys, Bodies, who rule alternately every fix Months, with 
and other Parts of human Bodies. But we will proceed i\\e Gonfalonier at their Head. This chief Magiftrate 
on our Journey, bears fome Refemblance to the Doges of Venice or 
Pifa is the fecond City of Fufeany, formerly a confi- Genoa, but continues no longer than two Months in 
derable Republick, feated in a level Plain on the River this Dignity 5 from whence, he reaps no other Profit 
..rfrao, dignified with the Title of an Archbifhoprick and but maintaining of his Table at the publick Charge: 
an Univerfity i its Streets are fpacious, ftreight, and His Drefs is a Robe of Crimfon Velvet, with a Bon- 
well pav’d with broad Stones, and generally well built, net and Stole, and his Title, His Excellency ; his Guard 
The Arno, which is navigable here, and twice as broad confifts of fixty Switzers, and he may not be chofen 
as the Fyber at Rome, divides the City into two Parts j it to the fame Dignity till after fix Years. Their Ar- 
is at prefent very poor and ill-peopled, its defolate Con- fenal is abundantly provided with Arms, and thofe 
dition muft be attributed to their Wars with the Floren- very well kept. 
tines, who, after the Conqueft of this Place, founded In the Cathedral we faw the Chapel of the Volto Santo. 
the great Mart of Leghorn upon the Ruin of Pifa. The They tell you, that Nicodemus having feveral Times at- 
Cathedral here is very like that of Siena, but not quite tempted in vain to paint the Crucifix, was at laft af- 
fo large ; it is a regular Strudure, and over-crufted fifted by the Angels, who guided his Pencil to finifti 
with curious Marble, The Baptiftery is of a circular it : They are not able to tell you how this Pidure came 
Figure an hundred and eighty Foot in Circumference, and to St. Fredian'% Church, but are pofitive that it remo- 
ved 
