Soo Missonis l^raveh through the Book iX 
dred Bags full ef loofe Pap.ers % the Margins were pret- 
ty large, and the Lines not very clofe. 
On the Front of this Palace, between the Statues of 
the Popes, is a Latin Infcription, intimating, that the 
£mperor Charles V. and Pope Clement VIII. meeting at 
Bologna in November 1529, reftored the Peace of Italy^ 
and that afterwards the faid Emperor Was crown’d King 
of Lombardy in the Church of St. Petronius ; the Em- 
peror had been crown’d before, 0 £l. 22, 1520, at Aix 
la Chapelle. In another Place of this Palace, you fee 
the Pi(fture of one named XJgolino^ on the Wall, hang- 
ing by one Foot, with this Subfcription, Vgolino tradi- 
tore, filatugliero alia Patria ; perhaps this might be 
Count Ugolin of Pi]a, one of the Heads of the Guelphs. 
In another Place you fee an Infcription beginning thus : 
Adejie O Sol Cf Lun^ Tejies, &c. relating to a Miracle 
wrought by an Image of our Lady, who deliver’d Bo- 
logna from the Peftilence. That great and ftately 
Fountain which faces this Palace, is the Work of 
the famous Archited and Sculptor John of Bo- 
logna, faid by fome to have coft feventy thoufand 
Crowns. 
In the Church of St. Petronius (the biggeft in the 
whale City ) is to be feen the fo much celebrated Me- 
ridian Line of CaJJini, engraven on a Copper Plate of 
222 Foot long, and fixed in the Pavement. It begins 
at the Entrance of the great Body on the left Hand, 
and pafles between the Pillars, without the lead Ob- 
ilacle, to the End of- the little Nave of the Church, the 
Situation of which is almoft Eajl and IFeli. In 
the arch’d Roof of the laft Nave is a Hole, diredly 
over the Noon-point of this Line, through which a 
Ray of the Sun entring, marks the Solftices and Equi- 
noxes upon the Line. The fame Operation may, with- 
out much Difficulty, be perform’d in any other con- 
venient Place, the whole Myftery confifting only in 
meafuring the Degrees on the Line, proportionably 
to the Height of the Hole through which the Ray 
enters. 
In the Church of Corpus Domini they Ihew an em- 
balm’d Body of St. Catherine Vigni, which has wrought 
many Miracles : But the Image of our Lady, faid to 
be made by St. Luke, is in much greater Veneration 
with them \ her Refidence is at the hlount la Guardia, 
eight Miles from the City (they were then making a 
cover’d Way to that Mountain) from whence they 
bring her at certain Times in Proceflion into Bologna 
with more than ordinary Magnificence, attended by the 
feveral Companies of the Artifans, the Fraternities, 
Convents, Heads of the Parifhes, Magiftrates, the Gon- 
falonier, and the Legate himfelf : The Image is always 
carried under a rich Canopy, the People upon their 
Knees fainting it as it pafifes by, with the mod zealous 
Ejaculations that can be conceiv’d. 
In the Church of the Dominicans you fee the mod 
magnificent Chapel and Tomb of St. Dominic j the in- 
laid Work of different Colours on the Benches of the 
Choir, done by Damian of Bergamo, a Monk, are high- 
ly edeem’d to this Day, though it is beyond all Dif- 
pute, that fince the finding out of the Art of imprint- 
ing natural Colours on Wood, this Kind of Work has 
been brought to a much greater Perfedtion. In the 
fame Church is to be feen the Tomb of Hentius or En- 
zelin King of Sardinia and Corfica, natural Son to the 
Emperor Frederick II. The Epitaph gives you an Ac- 
count of his being taken Prifoner by the Bononians, 
who detain’d him twenty two Years, nine Months, and 
fixteen Days in Captivity, till his Death, which hap- 
pen’d in March 1272. The Tower called Garifenda is 
about 130 Foot high, and leans like that oi Pifa ; it 
is a fquare Tower built of Brick, and its Inclination to 
one Side proceeds, quedionlefs, from the fame Reafon 
(viz. from the Sinking of the Foundation) as does that 
of Pifa. The bright Stones, known by the Name of 
Bononian Stones, are the Produft of the Hill oi Paderna, 
about three Miles didant from the City. 
The Heats being almod as troublefome here as in 
the Apennines, Men ufe Fans as well as the Women, 
fome of which are of Paper, and fold for a Penny a- 
piece. In our Inn they had a Way of driving away the 
Flies by a Machine 5 they often treated us with Lake Tor^ 
toifes of the Bignefs of a good Trencher j their Flefh 
is pretty firm, and not ill taded. 
Leaving Bologna about Sun-fet, We trayePd ten Miles 
lo Samogia, a fmall Village about half Way between 
this City and Modena. They told us, that from this 
Place to the Alps, Cat Country is as level as a Bowling- 
green, and that the Roads are lined on both Sides, ei- 
ther with Cornfields or Vineyards ; the Vines are fup- 
ported by Fruit-trees planted Chequer- wife, as We had 
feen them already in feveral Parts of Lombardy, and af- 
forded a very delightful Profpedl at fird, but at Length 
grew offenfive to the Eyes of us Travellers, for Want 
of that Variety which is diverting to the Sight, and 
without which nothing is diverting. The fame Night, 
as we came near to the Village, we were furprized with 
the Sight of a prodigious Quantity of jhining Flies, 
called Lucciole, with which the Hedges were cover’d to 
fuch a Degree, that they feem’d to be on Fire ; they 
are not unlike the Locuds in Shape, but not fo large ; 
the Alining Part is a certain yellow hairy Down under 
the Belly, which being drctch’d at every Motion of their 
Wings, fends forth a bright Glance like Fire. 
Early in the Morning we purfued our Journey to Mo- 
dena, where we arrived in two Hours. In our Way we 
palfed by the Fort of Urban VIII. defended by four 
Badioris bearing the Names of St. Mary, St. Peter, 
St. Paul, and St. Petronius-, and a little on this Side of 
it we crofs’d the River Panaro, the Boundary between 
the Bolonian and Modenefe Territories. The City of 
Modena itfelf is feated in a fertile Country, but for 
Want of Trade makes but an indifferent Appearance j 
for its Fortifications are much decay’d, the Streets are 
narrow and dirty, the Portico’s on both Sides of them 
low and narrow, and even the Churches contain no- 
thing worth taking Notice of ; fo that were it not for 
its ancient Reputation, and the Refidence of the Dukes 
of that Name, it would fcarce deferve a Place among 
the Cities of Italy. The old Palace is an inconfiderable 
Edifice, but the new one promifes much better. 
8. We travel’d in Calafhes in four Hours from Mla- 
dena to Reggio, a City as barren in Curiofities as Mode- 
na, but better built, and its Situation very pleafant. 
The Inhabitants tell you Wonders of their Churches, but 
thefe Things they mud tell thofe that have not feen 
Rome or Naples ; their chief Pretenfions lie in the Work- 
manfliip of Bones, of which they make feveral Sorts 
of Toys not worth the mentioning, and fold mifer- 
ably cheap. They told us of certain ancient Infcrip- 
tions found at Reggio, in which this City was called 
Regium Lepidi, the other Reggio in Calabria ulterior, 
being known by the Name of Regium Julium, and its 
Inhabitants Regienfes, whereas thofe of the fird were 
called Rhegini. They dile their Prince Duke of Reggio 
and Modena, jud as in Scotland (before the Union) they 
put the Name of their Country before England in the 
Title of the King. About eight Miles from Reggio we 
pafs’d the Bridge over the River Lenfa, on the other 
Side of which begins the Dutchy of Parma, being a 
plain Country, modly Padure, whereas about Bologna 
and Modena the Grounds are generally till’d. 
The City of Parma is feventeen Miles from this 
Bridge, very pleafantly feated, and feen at a confiderable 
Didance, by reafon of the Straightnefs of tfie Road 
leading to it, and the Height of its Spires. Over the 
Gate, through which we enter’d, we faw the Arms of 
Pope Paul III. the fame who bedow’d the Dukedoms 
of Parma and Placentia upon his natural Son Lewis. 
The River of Parma divides it into two Parts, but is 
not navigable ; its Fortifications are very good, and the 
Citadel defign’d after the Model of that of Antwerp, 
formerly edeem’d a Mader-piece. 
The Ducal Palace is a very indifferent Building, but 
the new one is likely to be much larger and handfomer. 
The Wardrobe is well furnifh’d, and fo are the Stables, 
and the Coaches very rich. The great Theatre is be- 
yond any of that Kind I ever faw, either at Paris or 
Venice ; the fofted Whifper may be heard through any 
Part of it, though it is of a very large Extent ; there 
are no Boxes, but only Benches rais’d one above the 
other, 
