6oo Etjhop Burn 
Vidam or Picedominus i fo that this was the Title that 
was ftill continued in Bern^ while they were under the 
AuSirian and German Yoke, and was preferved by them 
when they threw it off. 
I have touch’d too (lightly on the laft Difference in 
Switzerland^ which related to the Canton of Claris. In 
the Canton of Apenzel., as the two Religions are tole- 
rated, fo they are feparated in different Quarters ; 
thofe of one have the one Half of the Canton, and 
thofe of the other Religion have the other Flalf ; fo they 
live apart, but in Claris they are mix’d ; and now the 
Number of the Papifts is very low j one affured me, 
there were not above tvm hundred Families of that Re- 
ligion j and thofe fo poor, that their Neceffities dif- 
pofe fome every Day to change their Religion. The 
other Popifli Cantons feeing the Danger of lofing their 
Intereft entirely in that Canton, and being fet on by 
the Intrigues of a Court that underftood the Policy of 
embroiling all other States, made great Ufe of fome 
Complaints of the Papifts of Claris^ as if the prevail- 
ing of the other Religion expofed them to much Injuf- 
tice and Oppreffion ; and upon that they propofed that 
the Canton fhould be equally divided as Apenzel was. 
This was extremely unjuft, fince the Papifts were not 
the tenth, perhaps not the twentieth Part of the Canton. 
It is true, it was fo fituated, that the Proteftant Can- 
tons could not eafily come to their Affiftance *, but 
thofe of Claris refolved to die rather than fuffer this 
Injuftice ; ' and the Proteftant Cantons refolved to en- 
gage in a War with the Popifh Cantons, if they impo- 
fed on their Brethren of Claris. At laft this Expedient 
was found, that in all Suits between thofe of different 
Religions, two Thirds of the Judges fhould be of the 
Religion of the Defendant. But while this Conteft was 
on Foot, thofe who fomented, if they did not fet it 
on, knew how to make their Advantage of the Con- 
jundure j for then was the Fortification of Hunningen 
at the Ports of Baftl much advanced, of which they are 
now very apprehenfive when too late. There are fix 
noble Families in Bern that have this Privilege, that 
when any of them are chofen of the Council, they take 
Place before the ancient Counfellors ; whereas the reft 
take Place according to the Order in which they were 
chofen. 
ti. After a fhort Stay at Zurich., we went down the 
Lake, where we paffed under the Bridge at Ripperf^ 
woody which is a noble Work for fjch a Country. The 
Lake is there about half a Mile broad, the Bridge about 
twelve Foot broad, but hath no Rails on either Side ; 
fo that if the Wind is high, which is no extraordinary 
Thing, a Man is in great Danger of being blown into 
the Lake. This Defect I found in almoft all the Bridges 
of Lombardyy which feem’d very ftrafige ; for fince that 
Defence is made at fo finall an Expence, it was amazing 
to fee Bridges fo naked ; and more furprifing in fome 
Places, where the Bridges are both high and long : 
Yet I never heard of any Mifchief that follow’d ; Lit 
thofe are fober Countries, where Drinking is not much 
in Ufe. After two Days Journey we came to CoirOy 
the chief Town of the GrifonSy and where we found a 
General Diet of the three Leagues fitting ; fo that ha- 
ving ftaid ten Days there, I came to be informed of a 
great many Particulars which are not commonly known. 
The Town may contain between four and five thoufand 
Souls. It lies in a Bottom upon a fmall Brook, that a 
little below the Town falls into the Rhine. It is envi- 
roned with Mountains, fo that they have a very fiiort 
SummL ; for the Snow is not melted till May or JunSy 
and it began to fnow in September when I was there. 
On a rifing Ground at the Eaft End of the Town is the 
Cathedral, the Biftiop’s Palace, and the Clofe where the 
Dean and fix Prebendaries live : All within the Clofe 
are Papifts, but the Town are Proteftants, and they live 
pretty well together. Above a Quarter of a Mile up 
the Hrll, one goes by a fteep Afcent to St. Lucius's 
Chapel : My Curiofity carried me thither, though I 
gave no Faith to the Legend of King Luciusy and his 
coming (o far from home to be the Apoftle of the 
Grifons, Flis Chapel is a little Vault about ten Foot 
fqu-are, where there is an Altar, and Mafs is faid upon 
E t’s Travels Book II, 
fome great F'eftivals. It is fituated under a natural Arch 
in the Rock, which is given out to have been the Cell of 
a Hermit, F'rom it fome Drops of a Fountain fall 
down near the Chapel. The Bifhop affured me it 
had a miraculous Virtue for weak Eyes, and that it 
was oily ; but neither Tafte nor Feeling difeover’d to 
me any Oilinefs. I believe it may be very good for 
the Eyes, as all Rock Wat.er is. But when I offer’d to 
fhew the good old Bifhop that the Legend of Lucius 
was a Fable, and moft remarkably fo in that which re- 
lated to the Grifons y that we had no Kings in Britain 
at that Time, but were a Province to the Romans j that 
no ancient Authors fpeak of it, Bede being the firft ; 
and that the pretended Letter to Pope EleutheriuSy with 
his Anfwer, bear evident Charaders of p’orgery ; it 
fignified nothing to the Bifhop, who affured me, that 
they had a Tradition in their Church, and it was in- 
ferred in their Breviary, which he firmly believed. He allb 
told me the other Legend of King Lucius's Sifter, Sc, E- 
meritay'who was burnt there, and of whofe Veil there was 
yet a confiderable Remnant among their Reliques. I 
confefs I never faw a Relid fo ill difguifed, for it is a 
Piece of worn Linnen Cloth lately wafiied, and the 
Burning did not feem to be a Month old ; and yet 
when they took it out of the Cafe, there were fome 
there that with great Devotion rubbed their Beads up- 
on it. The Bifhop had fome Contefts with his Dean, 
and being a Prince of the Empire, he had proferibed 
him. The Dean alfo behaved himfelf fo infolently, 
that by an Order of the Diet he was put in Prifon as 
he came out of the Cathedral. By the Confent both of 
the Popifh and Proteftant Communities, a Law was long 
ago made againft Ecclefiaftical Immunities ; this At- 
tempt on the Dean was made four Years ago. As 
foon as he was let out, he went to RomOy and made 
great Complaints of the Bifhop, and it was thought the 
Popifh Party intended to move in the Diet, while we 
were there, for the repealing that Law, but they did 
it not. The Foundation of the Quarrel between the 
Bifhop and Dean was, the Exemptions to which the 
Dean and Chapter pretend, and upon which the Bi- 
Ihop made fome Invafion, I took Occafion to Ihew 
him the Novelty of thofe Exemptions, and that in the 
Primitive Church it was believed, that the Bifhop had 
the Authority over his Presbyters by a divine Right ; 
and if it was by a divine Right, then the Pope could 
not exempt them from his Obedience. But the Bi- 
fhop would not carry the Matter fo high, but content- 
ed himfelf with two Maxims 5 one was, that the Bifhop 
was Chrift’s Vicar in his Diocefe *, and the other, that 
what the Pope was in the Catholick Church, the Bifhop 
was in his Diocefe. 
He was a good-natur’d Man, and did not make ufe 
of the Authority that he had over the Papifts, to fet 
them to live uneafily with their Neighbours of another 
Religion. That Bifhop was anciently a great Prince, 
and the beft Part of the League, that carries ftill the 
Name of the Houfe of Cody belong’d to him j though 
I was affured ^hat Pregalliay one of thofe Communities, 
was a free State above fix hundred Years ago j and that 
they have Records extant that prove this : The other 
Communities bought their Liberties from feveral Bi- 
fhops fome Time before the Reformation, of which 
the Deeds are yet extant ; fo that it is an impudent 
Thing to fay, that they Ihook off his Yoke at that 
Time. 
The Bifhop hath yet a Revenue of about a thoufand 
Pounds a Year, and every one of the Prebendaries hath 
near two hundred Pounds a Year. It is not eafy to 
imagine how the Riches of this Country are railed ; for 
one fees nothing but vaft Mountains, that feem barren 
Rocks, and fome little Vallies among them not a Mile 
broad, and the beft Part of thefe wafh’d away by the 
RhinCy and fome Brooks that fall into it. But their 
Wealth confifts chiefly in their Hills, which afford much 
Pafture ; and in the hot Months, in which all the Pa- 
fture of Italy is parched, the Cattle are driven into thefe 
Hills, which brings them a clear Revenue of above 
two hundred thoufand Crowns a Year. The Publick 
is indeed poor, but particular Perfons are fo rich, that I 
knew 
