deal of the Building, being eight or ten Foot broad ^ 
but then here is an open Space, that is extreme cool 
on that Side where the Sun doth not lie ; for it is all 
open to the Air, the Wall being only fupported by 
Pillars, at the Diftance of fifteen or twenty Foot one 
from another. In this Hofpital there are not only 
Galleries full of Beds on both Sides, as is common 
in all Hofpitals ; but there are alfo a great many Cham- 
bers, in which Perfons, who were formerly of a diftin^ 
gtiifhed Condition, are treated vdth a particular Care. 
There is an Out-houfe, which is called the Laza- 
retto, which belongs to this Hofpital ; it is an exadt 
Quarter of a Mile fquare, and there are three hundred 
and fixty Rooms in it, and a Gallery runs all along 
before the Chambers •, fo that as the Service is conve- 
nient, the Sick have a cover’d Walk before their Doors. 
In the Middle of this vaft Square there is an odlan- 
gular Chapel, fo contrived, that the Sick, from all 
their Beds, may fee the Elevation of the Hoftie, and 
adore it. This Houfe is for the Plague, or for infedli- 
ous Fevers •, and the Sick, that want a freer Air, are 
alfo removed hither.' 
I need not fay any Thing of the curious Works in 
Cryftal that are feen in Milan -, the greateft Quantities, 
that are in Europe, are found in the Al-ps, and wrought 
here. It is certain, the Alps have much Wealth fhut 
up in their Rocks, if the Inhabitants knew how to 
fearch for it : But I heard of no Mines that were 
wrought, except Iron Mines *, yet, by the Colourings 
that in many Places the Fountains make as they run 
along the Rocks, one fees Caufe to believe that there 
are Minerals fhut up in them. Gold hath been often 
found in the River Arve that runs by Geneva. 
The laft Curiofity that I fhall mention of the Town 
of Milan, is the Cabinet of the Chanoine Settala, which 
is now in his Brother’s Hands, where there are a great 
many very valuable Things both of Art and Nature. 
There is a Lump of Ore, in which there is both Gold 
and Silver, and Emeralds, and Diamonds which was 
brought from Peru. There are many curious Motions, 
where, by an unfeen Spring, a Ball, after it hath roll’d 
down through many winding Defeents, is thrown up, 
and fo it feems to be a perpetual Motion : This is done 
in feveral ForiPiS, and it is well enough difguifed to de- 
ceive the Vulgar. Many Motions of little Animals, 
that run about by Springs, are alfo very pretty. There 
is a Loadftone of a vaft Force, that carries a great 
Chain. There is alfo a monftrous Child, that was late- 
ly born in the ITofpital, which is preferved in Spirit of 
Wine : It is double below, hath one Breafl and Neck, 
two Pair of Ears, a vafl Plead, and but one Face. As 
for the Buildings in Milan, they are large and fubffan- 
tial, ■ but they have not much regular or beautiful Ar- 
chited'ure. The Governor’s Palace hath fome noble 
Apartments in it. The chief Palace was built by a 
Banker. There is one Inconvenience in Milan, which 
deftroys all the Pleafure that one can find in it: They 
have no Glafs Windows, fo that one is either expofed 
to the Air, or fhut up in a Dungeon ; and this is fo 
univerfa), that there is not one Houfe in ten that hath 
Glafs in their Windov/s. The fame Defe(5f; is in Flo- 
rence, befides all the fmall Towns of 'Italy, which is an 
Effedt of their Poverty j for what by the Oppreffion of 
the Government, what by the fqueezing Oppreffion of 
their Priefts, who drain all the reft of their Wealth, 
that is not eat up by the Prince, to enrich their Churches 
and Convents, the People here are reduced to a Po- 
verty that cannot be eafily believed by one that fees 
the Wealth that is in their Churches j and this is going 
on fo conftantly in Milan, that it is fcarce accountable 
from whence fo vaft a Treafurs can be found j but 
Purgatory is a Fund not eafily exhaufted. The Wealth 
of the Milanefe confifts chiefly in their Silks and that 
1 rade falls fo mightily by the vaft Im.portations that 
the EaA- India Companies bring in to Europe, that all 
Italy feels this very fenfibly, and languiffies extremely, 
by the great F all that is in the Silk Trade. There is a 
great Magnihcence in Milan \ thp Nobility affedt to 
make a noble Appearance in their Cloaths, their 
Coaches,, and their Attendants j and the Women go 
E t’s Travels Book U. 
Abroad with more Freedom here; than in any Town 
of Italy. 
20. Twenty Miles from Milan we pafs’d through 
Lodi, a milerable Garnfon ; but indeed the Frontiers, 
both of the Spaniards and the Venetians, as well as thole 
of other Princes of Italy, ffiew, that they are not very 
apprehenfive one of another. And when one paffes 
through thofe Places, which are reprefented in Hiftory 
as of great Strength, capable of refifting a long Siet^e, 
he muft acknowledge, that the Sight of thern briifo-s 
the Idea that he had conceived a great many Deo-rees 
lower. For Lombardy, which was lo long the Seat of 
War, could not refift againft a good Army now, fo 
many Days as it did then Years. Fhe Garrilon of Cre— 
ma, which is the firft^of the Venetian Territory, is no 
better than Lodi, only the People in the Venetian Do- 
minions live happier than under the Spaniard. 
The Senate lends Podejias, like the Bailiffs of the 
Switzers, who order the Juftice and the Civil Go- 
vernment of the Jurifdiclion affigned them. TKere 
is alfo a Captain - General, who hath the Military 
Authority in his Hands 5 and thefe are Checks up- 
on each other, as the Bafhaws and the Cadis are 
among the Turks. But here in Crema the Town is fo 
fmall, that both thefe are in one Perfon. We w'ere 
there in the Time of the Fair ; Linnen Cloth and 
Cheefe (which though it goes by the Name of the Par- 
mefan, is made chiefly in Lodi) are the main Commo- 
dities. The Magnificence of the Podejia appeared very 
extraordinary ; for he went through the Fair with a 
great ft rain of Coaches, all in his own Livery ; and the 
two Coaches, in which himfelf and his Lady rode, were 
both extraordinary rich : His was a huge Bed-coach, 
all the Outfide black Velvet, and a mighty rich 
gold Fringe, lined with black Damask, flowered with 
Gold. From Crema it is thirty Miles to Brefcia, which 
is a great Town, and full of ftTade and Wealth. Here 
they make the beft Barrels for Piftols and Muskets in 
Italy. There are great Iron-works near it ; but the 
War with the Turk had occafioned an Order, that none 
might be fold without a Permiffion from Venice. They 
are building a noble Dome at Brefcia. I was ffiewed 
a Nunnery there, which is now under a great Difgrace. 
Some Years ago a new Bifhop coming thither, began 
with the Vifitadon of that Nunnery ; He diibovered 
two Vaults ; by one Men came ordinarily into it, and 
by another the Nuns that were big went and lay-in. 
When he was examining the Nuns feverely concerning 
thofe Vaults, fome of them told him, that his own Priefts 
did much worfe. He ftiut up the Nuns, fo that thofe 
who are profeffed live ftill there, but none come to take 
the Veil ; and by this Means the Houfe will foon come 
to an End. The Citadel lies over the Town on a Rock, 
and commands it abfolutely. Both here and in Crema 
the Towns have begun a Compliment, within thefe laft 
ten or twelve Years, to their Podejtas, which is a Matter 
of great Ornament to their Palaces, but will grow to a 
vaft Charge ; for they ered Statues to their Podejias ; 
and this being once begun, muft be carried on, other- 
wife thofe to whom the like Honour is not done, will re- 
fent it as an high Affront j and the Revenges of the 
noble Venetians are dreadful Things, efpecialJy to their 
Subjeds. This Name of Pgdejla is very ancient ; for 
in the Roman Times, the chief Magiftrates of the leffer 
Towns were called the Potejias, as appears by that of 
Juvenal. 
— Li denar um Gabiorumve ejfe Pot eft as. 
From Brefcia, the Beauty of Lombardy is a little in- 
terrupted ; for as all the Way from Milan to Brejeia 
is a Garden, fo here on the one Side we come under 
the Mountains, and we pafs by the Lake of Guarda, 
which is forty Miles long, and where broadeft, twen- 
ty Miles over. The Miles indeed all Lombardy over 
are extreme ffiort ; for I walk’d often four or five Miles 
by Way of Exercife, and I found a thoufand Paces made 
their common Mile ; but in Tufeany, and the King- 
dom of Naples, the Mile is fifteen hundred Paces. We 
pafs’d through a great Heath for feven or eight Miles on 
this Side Verona, which begins to be cultivated. Verona 
