Chap. III. through S w i s 
is a vaftTown, and much of it well built^ There are 
many rich Churches in it ; but there is fo little Trade 
llirring, and fo little Money going, that it is not eafy 
to change a Piftole without taking their Coin of bafe 
Allay, which won’t pafs out of the Veronefe : For this 
feems a ftrange Maxim of the Venetians^ to fuffer thofe 
fmall States to retain flill a Coin peculiar to them, which 
is highly inconvenient for Commerce. The known An- 
tiquity of Verona is the Amphitheatre, one of the leaft 
of all that the Romans built, but the beft preferved ; 
for tho* moft of the great Stones of the Outfide are 
pick’d out, yet the great Hoping Vault, on which the 
Rows of the Seats are laid, is entire : The Rows of the 
Seats are alfo entire ; they are four and forty Rows \ 
every Row is a Foot and a half high, and as much in 
Breadth, fo that a Man fits conveniently in them under 
the Feet of thofe of the higher Row ; and allowing 
every Man a Foot and a half ; the whole Amphithe- 
atre can hold twenty three thoufand Ferfons. In the 
Vaults, uider the Rows of Seats, were the Stalls of 
the Beafts that were prefentcd to entertain the Com- 
pany. The Thicknefs of the Building, from the 
outward Wall to the loweft Row of Seats, is ninety 
Foot : But this noble Remnant of Antiquity has been 
lb often and fo copioufly defcribed, that I will fay no 
more of it. The next Thing of Value is the famous 
Mufaum Calceolarium^ now in the Hands of Count Maf- 
cardo^ where there is a whole Apartment of Rooms 
all furniflied with Antiquities and Rarities. There are 
fome old Infcriptions made by two Towns in Africk to 
the Honour of M. Crajfus •, there is a great Collection 
of Medals and Medallions, and of the Roman Weights, 
with their Inftruments for their Sacrifices •, there are 
many Curiofities of Nature, and a great Colleftion of 
Pidtures, of which many are of Paulo Veronefe'‘s Hand. 
There is a noble Garden in Verona^ that rifes up in 
Terraffes the whole Height of a Hill, in which there 
are many ancient Infcriptions which belong to Count 
Giuflo. As we go from Verona to Vincenza^ which is 
thirty Miles, we return to the Beauty of Lombardy ; for 
there is all the Way a Succeffion of Gardens : The 
Ground is better cultivated than I faw it in any other 
Part of Italy^ -but the Wine is not good ; for at the 
Roots of all their Trees they plant a Vine, which grows 
up winding about the Tree to which it joins ; but the 
Soil is too fat to produce a rich Wine, for that requires 
a dry Ground. There is near the Lake of Guarda^ a 
very extraordinary Wine, which they call Vino Santo, 
which drinks like the beft Sort of Canary ; it is not 
made till Chrijimas, and from thence it derives the 
Name of Holy Wine \ and it is not to be drunk till 
Midfummer, for it is fo long before it is quite wrought 
clear ; but I have not marked how long it may be 
kept : We had it there for a Groat an Englijh Qiiart ; 
I wonder’d that they did not trade with it. All the 
Cattle of Italy are grey or white, and all their Hogs 
are black, except in the and there they are 
red. I will not enquire into the Reafons of thefe Things ; 
it is certain Hog’s Flefti in Italy is much better than it 
is in France and England ; whether the Truffles, on 
which they feed much in Winter, occafion this or no, 
I know not ; the Husks of the prefled Grapes are alfo 
a mighty Nourifflment to them j but Cattle of that 
greyifti Colour are certainly weaker : The Carriage of 
Italy is commonly performed by them, and this is very 
hard Work in Lombardy, when it hath rained ever fo 
little ; for the Ground being level, and there being no 
raifed Highways, the Carts go deep, and are very 
hardly drawn. 
Vincenza hath ftill more of its ancient Liberty than 
any of thefe Towns, as Padua hath lefs *, for it fub- 
mitted itfelf to the Venetians, whereas the other difputed 
long, and brought it often very low. One fees the 
Marks of Liberty in Vincenza, in the Riches of their 
Palaces and Churches, of which many are lately built : 
They have a modern Theatre made in Imitation of the 
ancient Romans. Lombardy differs in Climate from the 
Southern Part of Italy, for here they keep their Oranges 
and Citrons in great Boxes, as we do in England, that 
lb they may be lodged in Winter, and defended from 
Vo L. II. Numb. no. 
SfiRLAND, ^C. 6&P 
Breezes that blow fo fharp from the Alps, that they 
would kill thofe delicate Plants 5 whereas in Fufcany 
they grow as other Trees in their Gardens ; and in the 
Kingdom of Naples they grow wild without any Care or 
Cultivation. We v/ere at Vincenza upon a Holiday, 
and there I faw a Preparation tor a Proceffion that was 
to be in the Afternoon ; I did not wonder at what a 
French Papift faid to me, that he could hardly bear the 
Religion of Italy, the Idolatry in it was fo grofs. The 
Statue of the Virgin was of Wood^ fo finely painted,; 
that I thought the Head was Wax it was richly clad, 
and had a Crown on its Head, and was fet full of 
Flowers. How they did when it was carried about, I 
I do not know ; but in the Morning all People ran to 
it, and faid their Prayers to it, and kiffed the Ground 
before it, with all the Appearances of Devotion. 
From Vincenza it is eighteen Miles to Padua, all a 
Garden ; Here one fees the Decays of a vaft City, 
which was one of the biggeft of all Italy : The Com- 
pafs is the fame that it was, but there is much uninha- 
bited^ Ground in it, and Houfes there go almoft for 
Nothing. The Air is extreme good ; and there is fo 
great a Plenty of all Things, except Money, that a 
very little of that goes a great Way. The Univerfity 
here, though fo much fupported by the Venetians, that 
they pay fifty Profeffors, yet finks extremely ; There 
are no Men of any great Fame in it, and the Quar- 
rels among the Students have driven away moft of 
the Strangers that ufed to come and ftudy here j for 
it is not fafe to ftir abroad after Sun- fet. The 
Number of the Palaces is incredible ; and though 
the Nobility of Padua are almoft quite ruined, yet 
the Beauty of their ancient Palaces ftiews what they once 
were. The Venetians have been willing to let the an- 
cient Quarrels, that w'ere in all thofe conquer’d Ci- 
ties, continue ftill among them ; for while one kills 
another, and the Children of the other take their Re- 
venges, both come under the Bando by this Means, 
and the Confifcation goes to the Senate. At fome 
Times of Grace, when the Senate wants Money, and 
offers a Pardon to all that will compound for it, the 
Numbers ot the guilty Perfons are incredible. In Vin^ 
cenza, and the Country that belongs to it, I was affured 
by Monfieur Path, that learned Antiquary, that hath 
been many Years a Profeffor in Padua, that there were 
five and thirty thoufand pardoned at the laft Grace ; 
this I could hardly believe, but he bid be write it upon 
his Word. The Nobility of Padua, and of the other 
Towns, feem not to fee what a Profit their Quarrels 
bring to the Venetians, and how they eat out their Fa- 
milies ; for one Family in the fame Man’s Time, 
who was alive while I was there, was reduced, from 
fourteen thoufand Ducats Revenue, to lefs than three 
thoufand, by its falling at feveral Times under the 
Bando. But their Jealoufies and Revenges are purfued 
with fo much Vigour, that, when thefe are in their Way, 
all other Things are forgot. There is here the Rem- 
nant of the Amphitheatre, though nothing but the out- 
ward Wall. There is here alfo, as well as in Milan, 
an inward Town, call’d the City, and an outward with- 
out that, call’d the Burgo ; but though there is a Ditch 
about the City, the great Ditch and Wall goeth about 
all, and Padua is eight Miles in Compafs j it lies al- 
moft round : The publick Hall is the nobleft in Italy : 
The Dome is an ancient but mean Building : The 
Church of St. Anthony, but efpecially the holy Chapel 
in if, where the Saint lies, is one of the beft Pieces of 
modern Sculpture ; for round the Chapel the chief Mi- 
racles of that Saint are reprefented in mezzo relievo, in 
a very furprizing Manner. The Devotion that is paid 
to this Saint all Lombardy over is amazing ; he is called, 
by Way of Excellence, II Santo, and the Beggars gene- 
rally afic Alms for his Sake. But among the little Vows 
that hang without the holy Chapel, there is one that is 
the higheft Pitch of Blafphemy that can be imagined. 
Exaudit, fpeaking of the Saint, puos non audit & ipfe 
Deus j i. e. He hears thofe whom God himfelf doth not 
hear. St. Lujiina is a Church fo well ordered within, 
the Architecture is fo beautiful,: it is fo well enlightned, 
and the Cupolas are fo advantageoully placed, that, if 
7 Q., the 
