Chap. III. through S W i s 
The Prince went out a Hunting while we were there, 
with a very handfome Guard of about fourfcore Horfe 
well mounted ; fo we faw the Palace, but were not 
fuffered to fee the Apartment where he lodged. There 
is a great Silver Cafolette gilt, fet with Emetalds and 
Rubies, that though they made a fine Appearance, yet 
were a Compofition of the Prince’s own making. His 
Officers alfo ffiewed us a Bafon and Ewer, which they 
faid were of Mercury, fixed by the Prince himfelf ; but 
they added, that for many Years he has not wrought 
in his Elaboratory. I did not eafily believe this ; and 
as the Weight of the Plate did not approach to that of 
Quickfilver, fo the medicinal Virtues of fixed Mercury 
(if there is any fuch Thingj are held to be fo extraor- 
dinary, that it feemed very ftrange to fee twenty or 
thirty Pound of it made up in two pieces of Plate. A 
Quarter of a Mile without the Town, lies the beft 
Garden of thofe Parts of Germany^ in which there is a 
great Variety of Water-works, and very many noble 
Alleys in the French Manner, and the whole is of a 
very confiderable Extent. But as it hath no Statues of 
any Value to adorn it, fo the Houfe, about which it 
lies, is in Ruins : And it is ftrange to fee, fo rich and 
fo great a Prince, during fo long a Regency, hath done 
fo little to enlarge, or beautify his Buildings. Bonne 
and Coblentz are both poor and fmall Towns. Cologne 
is three Hours diftant from Bonne : It is of a prodigi- 
ous Extent, but ill built, and worfe peopled in the Skirts 
of it ; and as the Walls are all in an ill Cafe, fo it is 
not poffible to fortify fo vaft a Compafs, as this Town 
makes, as it oiSght to be, without a Charge that would 
eat out the whole Wealth of this little State. 
The Jews live in a little Suburb on the other Side 
of the River, and muft not come over, without Leave 
obtained, for which they pay confiderably. There is 
no Exercife of the Proteftant Religion fuffered within 
the Town, but thofe of that Communion are fuffered 
to live there, and they have a Church at two Miles 
Diftance. The Arfenal here is fuitable to the Fortifica- 
tions, that is, very mean and ill furniftied. The Choir 
of the great Church is as high in the Roof as any 
Church I ever faw ; but it feems the Wealth of this 
Place could not finifli the whole Fabrick, fo as to an- 
fwer the Height of the Choir, for the Body of the 
Church is very low. Thofe, that are difpofed to be- 
lieve Legends, have enough here to overfet even a good 
Degree of Credulity, both in the Story of the three 
Kings, whofe Chapel is vifited with great Devotion, 
and ftands at the Eaft End of the great Choir *, and in 
that more copious Fable of the eleven thow^andUrfuUns, 
whole Church is all over full of rough Tombs, and of 
a vaft Number of Bones, that are piled up in Rows 
about the Walls of the Church. Thefe Fables are fo 
firmly believed by the Papifts there, thk the leaft Sign 
of Doubting of their Truth, paffeth for an infallible 
Mark ot an Heretick. The Jefuits have a great and 
noble College and Church here. And for FhauleF^ 
Sake, I went to the Dominicans Houfe and Church, 
which is alfo very great. One grows extreme weary of 
Walking over this great Town, and doth not find 
enough of Entertainment in it. The prefent Subjedl of 
their Difcourfe is alfo very melancholy. The late Re- 
bellion that was there is fo generally known, that I need 
not fay much concerning it. A Report was fet about 
the Town by fome Incendiaries, that the Magiftrates 
eat up the publick Revenue, and were like to ruin the 
City. I could not learn what Ground there was for 
thefe Reports ; for it is not ordinary to fee Reports of 
that Kind fly through a Body of Men, without fome 
Foundation. It is certain, this came to be fo generally 
believed, that there was a horrible Diforder occafioned 
by it. The Magiftrates were glad to fave. themfelves 
from the Storm, and abandoned the Town to the po- 
pular Fury, fome of them having been made Sacrifices 
to it and this Rage held long. But within this laft 
Year, after near two Years Diforder, thofe that were fent 
by the Emperor and Diet to judge the Matter, having 
threatned to put the Town under the Imperial Bann, 
if it had ftood longer out, were received, and have put 
V o L. II, Numb. 112. 
serlano, ^c. 637 
the Magiftrates again in the Poffeffion of their Autho- 
rity, and all the chief Incendiaries were clapp’d in Pri- 
fon. Many have already fuffered, and a great many 
more are in Prifon. They told us, that fome Executi- 
ons were to be made within a Week, when w'e were 
there. 
DuJJeldorph the firft confiderable Tov/n Cologne .? 
It is the Seat of the Duke of Juliers^ who is Duke of 
Newburgh^ eldeft Son to the prefent Eledlor Palatine, 
The Palace is old, and Gothick enough •, but the Je- 
fuits have there a fine College, and a noble Chapel, 
though there are maniteft Faults in the ArchiteClure. 
The Proteftant Religion is tolerated, and they have a 
Church built here within thefe few Years, that was pro- 
cured by the Interceffion of the Eledor of Brandenburgs 
who obferving exadly the Liberty of Religion that was 
agreed to in Cleve^ had Reafon to fee the fame as 
duly obferved in his Neighbourhood, in Favour of his 
own Religion. The Fortifications here are very ordi- 
nary, the Ramparts being faced but a few Foot high, 
with Brick. But Keiferfwarts fome Hours lower on 
the fame Side, which belongs to the Eledor of Cologne^ 
though it is a much worfe Town than Dujfeldorps yet 
is much better fortified. It hath a very broad Ditch, 
and a very regular Fortification : The Walls are confi- 
derably high, faced with Brick, and fo is the Counter- 
fcarp, which is alfo in a very good Condition. The 
Fortification of Orfoy is now quite demoliflied. Rhine- 
berg continues as it was, but the Fortification is very 
mean, only of Earth, fo that it is not capable of mak- 
ing a great Refiftance. And TFe/eJ though it is a very 
fine Town, yet it is a very poor Fortification •, nor can 
it ever be made good, except at a vaft Expence 5 for 
the Ground all about it being Sandy, nothing can 
be made there that will be durable, unlefs the Founda- 
tion go very deep, or that it be laid upon Pilotry. In 
all thefe Towns one fees another Air of Wealth and 
Abundance, than in much richer Countries that are 
exhaufted with Taxes. Rees and Emmerick are good 
Towns, but the Fortifications are quite ruined, fo that 
here is a rich and a populous Country^ that hath at 
prefent very little Defence, except what it hath from itsi 
Situation. . Cleeje is a delicious Place, the Situation and 
Profpedl are charming, and the Air is very pure ; and 
from thence we came to Nimeguen in three Hours. 
I will not fay one Word of the Country into which. 
I am now come ; for as I know that is needlefs to you 
on many Accounts, fo a Pidture that I fee here in the 
Stadt-houfe puts me in Mind of the moft perfedl Book 
of its kind that is perhaps in Being ; for Sir TVilliam 
Femple, whofe Pidture hangs here at the upper End of 
the Plenipotentiaries that negotiated the famous Treaty 
of Nimeguen^ hath indeed fet a Pattern to the World, 
which is done with fuch Life, that it may juftly make 
others blufh to copy after it *, fince it muft be acknow- 
ledged, that if we had as perfedt an Account of other 
Places, as he hath given us of one of the leaft, but yet one 
of the nobleft Parcels of the Univerfe, Travelling would 
become a needlefs Thing, unlefs it were for Diverfion j 
fince one finds no farther Occafion for his Curiofity 
in this Country, than what is fully fatisfied by his rare 
Performance : yet I cannot give over Writing without 
refledling on the Refiftance that this Place made, when 
fo many other Places were fo bafely delivered up 5 
though one does not fee in the Ruins of the Fortifica- 
tion here, how it could make fo long a Refiftance ; 
yet it was this Town ftemm’d the Tide of a Progrels 
that made all the World ftand amazed y and it gave 
a little Time to the Dutch to recover themfelves out 
of the Confternation, into which fo many Blows, 
that came fo thick one after another, had ftruck 
them 
But then the World faw a Change, that though it 
hath not had fo much Incenfe given to it, as the hap- 
py Conjundture of another Prince hath drawn after it 
with fo much Excefsj that all the Topicks of Flattery 
feem exhaufted by it, yet will appear to Pofterity one 
of the moft furprizing Scenes in Hiftory, and that 
which may be well matched with the Recovery of the 
7 Z Roman. 
