656 Mr. Ray 
September 12. In the Morning we pafied by Pogen, 
and four Leagues below StranbingeUy under a wooden 
Bridge laid over the Danube, fomewhat lower we faw 
the fmall City of Drechndorf, belonging to the Eleiflorof 
Bavaria, and having pafsM by the Mouth of the River 
Ifer, and in Sight of OSierhoven on our Left-hand, and the 
Caftle of Hilkenherg on the fame Side, we lodged that 
Night at a little wall’d Bavarian Town called Viljhoven. 
September 13. We came to Pajfau or Pajfovia, four 
Leagues diftant from Viljhoven, a City confiderable for 
its Strength, Bignefs, and noble Buildings, the laft of 
which were very near all confumed by Fire, about nine 
Months before out Arrival. It is under the Jurifdic- 
tion of the Archduke of Infpruck, fituate at the Con- 
fluence of the Rivers In and the Danube, over the firft 
of which is a Bridge to the Town of Indadt. Below 
Pajfau, the Danube being ftreightned by Hills and 
Rocks on both Sides, begins to run with a much fwifter 
Stream than before ; feven Leagues below Pajfau, paf- 
flng by the Caftle of Newhoufe, we took up our Lodg- 
ings at the Village of Ajh, on the right Side of the 
River. 
2t6. September 14. Pafting through an open Country 
on both Sides, for four leagues together, we came to 
Lintz, a City neatly built after the Italian Manner, with 
a fquare fpacious Piazza, adorned with two noble Foun- 
tains, the Imperial Palace ftanding upon a rifing Ground, 
from whence you have a fair Profped of the Danube and 
adjacent Country. Three Leagues below it we pafled 
by a very fine Village called Mathaufen, and in Sight of 
the City of Intz, feated on our Right-hand upon the 
River Ent, feven Leagues below Lintz, the Country be- 
gins to be hilly again on both Sides of the Danube, 
near the Caftle of the Prince of Idchtenjtein, by a Vil- 
lage called Greine ; a little below which Place we paflied 
a Kind of Gatara< 5 l, the Current being nearly encloled 
between the Rocks on both Sides, and render’d boif- 
terous by thole under Water j and fomething lower a 
Whirlpool is made there by the jetting out of Rocks 
into the River. Afterwards, pafiing by a fmall Town 
called Ips, we lodged that Night at the Village of Mor- 
patch, about eleven German Leagues from Lintz. 
September 15. Early in the Morning we pafled in 
Sight of the rich Convent called Melk, on our Right- 
hand, and about fix Leagues further the Seat of Count 
Dietrichjiem on our Left, within Sight of the rich Ab- 
by of Ketwein, famous for its ftony Situation, and the 
brave Refiftance it made againft the Swedes. Nine 
Leagues from our laft Night’s Lodging, we palfed under 
a wooden Bridge, near the City of Stein, not far from 
whence we came to Krembs, a very handfome, ftrong, 
well-built City, feated at the Foot of a Hill. From 
hence, being an open Country, the Channel of the Ri- 
ver began to be much_broader. Six Leagues below 
Krembs, we pafled by a fmall City called Deuln, and 
in Sight of the Caftle of GreitenHein, fituate upon a 
Hill, at fome Diftance from the River, on the Left- 
hand, and we faw alfo the City of Cornburgh. Here, 
and afterwards in other Places, we faw Abundance of 
Mills in Boats, the Wheels lying betwixt two Boats, 
placed at a convenient Diftance one from another *, fo 
that the Stream being by Degrees ftreightned between 
the Boats, forces the Wheel to turn. One of the Boats 
is with Chains, or ftrong Cables, faftened to the Bank. 
Within a League and a half of Vienna, we paflfed by 
the noble and rich Abby called Cloyfier Newburg, with 
a little wall’d Town of the fame Name belonging to 
it 5 and having by the Swiftnefs of the Current made 
nineteen German Leagues that Day, arrived at Vienna, 
the Capital of AuHria, and now the Capital of the 
Empire. 
This City, v/hich, in Proportion to its Bignefs, is the 
moft populous we had feen yet in our Travels, is the or- 
dinary Refidence of the Emperor, feated upon the Da- 
nube, though it receives its Name from the River Wien, 
which below it, viz. on the Eaft-fide, falls into the for^ 
mer. The Body of the City is not above four or five 
Englijh Miles in Compals, but the Suburbs are very 
fpacious, fome of the Houfes of which were lately pul- 
led down> upon the Approach of the Purks towards 
s ’Travels Book If. 
Presburgh (not above forty 'EngliJfj Miles from thence) 
after the taking of Newheufel. Vienna has a moft re- 
gular Fortification, the Wall of F^arth, but very high 
and thick, faced with Bricks, ftrengthened by a broad 
and deep Ditch, and defended by many Half-moons 
and Horn-works. The Houfes are lofty and well- built, 
with flat Roofs, after the Italian Way ■ The Markets 
very well furniflied with Provifions, but the Streets none 
of the broadeft. The Emperor’s Palace, the Cathe- 
dralj and other publick Buildings, are very magnificent. 
The Emperor himfelf {Leopold) is low of Stature,of a very 
dark Complexion, black Hair, and thin vifaged, with a 
thick hanging Under-lip, not unlike his Effigies on 
his Coin. In the Market we firft met here with the 
Fruit of Sorbus legitima, with Tortoifes, for Six-pence 
a-piece, found here in muddy Places ; and here we alfo 
faw the Silurus, or Sheat-jijh, the biggeft of all freffi 
Water Fifh I ever faw, fome of them weighing near 
an hundred Pounds. 
27. September 24. We took Coach for Venice, and 
lodged that Night at a great Village called Trayskerk, 
four Leagues thence ; by the Way we faw great Store 
of Ahfmthium Aujiriacum tenuifolium, Clauf. 
The 24th, after we had travel’d four Leagues, we 
came to NewSfadt, [Neapolis Aujtriaca ) a pretty ftrong 
fquare Town, well built, but of no great Extent ; ha- 
ving a fair Market-place, and very regular Streets. At 
three of the Corners it is defended by lb many Baftions, 
but on the fourth it has a Caftle or Citadel. Near this 
Place I met with the Afperula ccerulea. After we had 
travePd two Leagues beyond Newjladt, we began to 
enter among the Hills, and lodged that Night at Gluck- 
nitz, four Leagues from Newjladt. 
The 26th, We had fcarce made two Leagues, when 
coming to the Village of Shadwin, our Coachman hired 
ten Oxen (which were ready at hand for that Purpofe) 
to draw the Coach up the fteep Hills, which are the 
common Boundaries betwixt Auliria and Stiria. After 
we had travei’d for fome Time among the Hills, we 
pafs’d through Mertzjuchlag, a fmall City feated upon 
the River Muercz (where we faw many Mills_) and af- 
terwards through Langenwang and Kriegla, each of which 
have a Caftle built on Hills. We crofs’d the River 
near the laft, and paffing through a pleafant Valley fur- 
rounded with woody Mountains, lodged that Night at 
the Village of Kimberg, fix long German Leagues from 
Glocknitz. 
The 27th, We continued our Journey through the 
fame Valley, through the Valley of Kapfuberg, in Sight 
of feveral Villages, Caftles, and Country-Seats upon 
the Sides of the Hills, and at three Leagues End came 
to the City call’d Pruck en der Mure, i. e. Pons Mura, 
a neat Place, defended by a Wall, having a fpacious 
Market-place : The Inhabitants are moftly concerned 
in Iron-work. Here we pafs’d the River Mure twice, 
and after we had left Lewben, pafsH over a Hill, and 
fo following the Courfe of the River among the Moun- 
tains, lodged that Night at the Village called St. Mi- 
chael. Here it was we faw many Men and Women 
with large Tumours hanging down under their Chins 
and Throats, fome of which were fingle, fome double, 
call’d in Latin, Bronchocele, and by fome Englijh the Ba- 
varian Pokes. This, it feems, is a Difeafe natural, and 
of old belonging to the Alpine Inhabitants : Vjuis tumi- 
dum guttur miretur in Alpibus ? Though the Grijons in- 
habiting the higheft Parts of thefe Mountains, are either 
not at all, or at leaft not near fo much fubjeft to this 
Diftemper. Some attribute the Source of this Evil 
to the Snow-water which comes from the Alps ; others 
to the virulent mercurial Particles which are mix’d with 
thefe Waters ; but as this Diftemper is not frequent 
among other Nations inhabiting mountainous Countries, 
where the Snow lies as long as here, nay, where their 
Waters are nothing but melted Snow, neither among 
the Hungarians and Pranfylvanians, (where they abound 
in Minerals, and efpecially in Mercury) we had better 
fufpend our Judgment, till fome ingenious Phyfician, 
refiding in thofe Countries, fliall affign us the true Caufe 
and Cure of this Diftemper. We alfo faw more Idiots 
and delirious Perfons here than any where elfe, which 
